First, that a bag might be labeled 'Cactus Soil' is no clear indication what's inside the bag is appropriate for cacti. Soils with a significant fraction of peat that don't also contain a surfactant (wetting agent) can be expected to start becoming hydrophobic as moisture content approaches about 30%, and grow continually more hydrophobic as moisture content declines. That can be fixed to a significant degree by adding internally porous materials that don't exhibit hydrophobic tendencies, even when the soil is completely dry. Two materials that fit this description are calcined (fired at high temps) clays and DE (diatomaceous earth). Even in a completely dry soil, calcined clay, like Turface, and calcined DE absorb water on contact. The water can then diffuse throughout the remainder of the soil volume, 'breaking' the hydrophobic tendencies of dry peat and bark. If you water as described, then wait several minutes (10-15) before watering again, the soil will readily absorb the second application. These materials The larger, internally porous particles) need to be in the soil at above threshold levels, though. That means there can't be a high enough volume of peat in the soil to fill all the air spaces between the larger particles of calcined clay or DE. To a significant degree, your soil will determine what kind of opportunity you'll be able to offer your plants to reach their genetic potential. It plays a big part in your ability to put a good fertilizer supplementation program in play, in your ability to water correctly, and in how much margin for error you have in watering and fertilizing. In short, you can choose a soil you'll forever battle for control of your plant's vitality, or you can choose one that works FOR you, providing the strong foundation your container plantings need. No matter how you look at it, a healthy plant is impossible w/o a healthy root system, and the soil is the foundation of every conventional container planting. Getting it right pays big dividends. Soils that hold as little water as possible between soil particles and as much as possible inside of particles are much easier to grow and keep plants healthy in. The information at the link provided below probably represents the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. What I use for cacti, succulents, houseplants, and all my woody plant material: Al Here is a link that might be useful: Much more about soils if you click me.

You need advice from people who know Washington soils. If you're in Western Washington, you do not have an excess of minerals, particularly not of sodium, causing your drainage problems. Eastern Washington, maybe. If you're in the Puget Sound area (why oh why do you not specify where you are on your member page????) you probably have native soil that is mostly gravel and sand. When you squeeze a handful, does it squish into a sticky ball that does not crumble? if not it's not a 'heavy' or clayey soil. Here's what I think may be going on (IF you're in the Puget Sound area! the rest of Western WA has unglaciated soils that are not nearly as gravelly and sandy as ours). You have 'topsoil' that may be of decent texture, but a relatively thin layer plunked down on top of gravelly sandy glacial till. Any time you have a drastic change of soil texture you block water drainage. Does not matter if the lower soil is better or worse draining. The change is what blocks the water movement. Clay soils are rare around here. I've seen pockets of clay, and outwash soils that have some clay in them and seem clayey in comparison with the sandy soils that are more typical, but I would not expect you have an actual clay soil in your topsoil. So I think your topsoil is probably decent soil but needs that boundary layer underneath it broken up. We do get hardpans here, usually glacial in origin, not chemical as in other areas. You won't be able to break up the glacial hardpan - how could you undo what the weight of a glacier has done??? forget it! Shallow soils on bedrock too. What I would do is lay on some compost, get the biggest tiller you can handle, and till down until you get past the topsoil and into the native soil to break up that boundary. Do not add any chemicals or fertilizer or sand or manure. Just compost. Unless of course it's on a hardpan or bedrock, then you'll need to raise it up more.

A lilac could probably tolerate it(not a tree lilac, if you do have alkaline soil, they don't like it). A saskatoon might do OK there too, though I don't think they are super attractive ornamentally..they look a bit messy. But you would have flowers in spring and fruit in summer. I have terrible "gumbo" soil too, that is either a gummy mess or else powdery concrete..so I'm trying to think of what I have in my yard that would work. I agree that the dogwood would probably do fine, they seem to grow just about anywhere. I don't know anything about the cranberry, so I'll take northspruce's word on it.

gardengal, thanks for understanding my confused position ^_^ You're totally right, it's a large container, and I'll scoot over to that section. As an update for y'all, and in tragic case someone else is in my boat, I dumped all the soil. Truthfully, it was mostly a logical decision, but there was some "start anew" emotions in there too. As an ironic twist, my work had a company event at a small farm, and over a few glasses of wine, I had a great discussion with the farmer there, and after asking "should I start over?" He said, "the fact you asked that, means you already know the answer." But, I'll tell ya, it's a lot easier putting it in, than taking it out! Anywho, I'm starting over with a nice organic soil mixed about 60/40 with a cactus mix. I'd love to do the 5-1-1 or the gritty mix, but it's just impossible for me to find the ingredients, and they seem so specific about grain size, decomposition level, etc. that my brain almost blew up, so the owner at my local organic nursery said, if the mix doesn't work, bring back a clump, and I'll refund all your money. So, I was sold. I loved his advice, "spend 80% on your soil and 20% on your plants." Which I think is spot on. As far as what I would tell others in my situation, don't rush the soil. For the most part, that means don't just grab something from a big box place, which doesn't list it's ingredients. Like most things in life, if you don't know what's in it, then you won't know what comes out of it. Thanks again for all your feedback, and although I'll scoot over to container garden country for my future inquiries, I'll keep y'all updated on my progress! (cues "The More You [Gr]ow" song)