Lemon Blossom and missing parts? Why my tree will not fruit?
bonechickchris
12 years ago
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mksmth zone 7a Tulsa Oklahoma
12 years agobonechickchris
12 years agoRelated Discussions
missing female parts on lemon tree flower
Comments (1)Lemons as with most citrus, do not need to be pollinated to produce fruit. They are parthenocarpic (self-fruitful). Don't worry about missing stigmas :-) And, hard to say why your tree is bearing less fruit this year, it can be due to several different things, such as how long you left mature fruit on the tree (which can force a tree to alternate bear), fertilizing and watering, pest pressure, cold/freezing temps (tree would be in recovery), etc. Patty S....See Moreis my fruiting meyer lemon tree dying slowly???
Comments (16)I look at it this way in simpler terms of course..... I am brain dead and bored, so here it goes..lol I if don't make sense, pardon me. If I can't or do not know how to grow anything in a pot with a Perched Water Table, which I mostly do not, then I won't use a soil that encourages it. Using bottom stones, or even water proof packing peanuts which don't weigh the pot down never helped me. By the way, if your determined to use bottom material, this is the way to go. No more heavy pots.:-) I have killed a many plants in the past this way. The bottom roots being wet ,stuck in that PWT above the stones, never drying out while the top half of the roots keep getting watered because I keep watering the top of soil that is bone dry. My roots can be thirsting for water even 4 inches down into my pots from the top, while the bottom half of the roots are in that PWT portion staying wet, never drying out. And rocks on the bottom of any pot does not get rid of that PWT. It just makes it higher. The Perched Water Table depending on the soil you use will be there, and maybe not if you use a wick or a fast draining soil. Of course this is not a concern to me in any pot smaller than 6 inches... They dry out fast, especially if they are in clay. I typically use something other than the gritty soil for these. But when I move up to a bigger pot, I am not willing to take the risk of root rot. Some people here can grown plants in any size pot with a PWT and have sucess. Some in 30 gallon barrels! I am not one of those..:-( This is why I use A'ls gritty mix minus the fines that could settle down at the bottom of pot and stay wet while the top of the soil gets dry. Bonsai have very shallow roots, therefore grown in shallow pots, and this is how a many of my friends including myself have killed our Bonsai. You can have a PWT in soil as deep as one inch. We can't afford to have a PWT at all in such shallow pots! On this we take NO chances. I can not afford to have a PWT also in big sized pots for regular plants. Since they and I changed to Al's gritty mix, we have been sucessful, with no Perched Water Table and bottom root rot, even in rainy everday weather if pots are left out all summer. We just have to water more often when because the soil dries out quicker. :-) Jean, I have done the same thing to most of my pots, especially the ones my Clivias are in. They are thriving!! I even drill bigger holes at the bottom of my plastic ones and hammer out a huge circle hole on the bottom of my clay ones, then use screen to stop the soil from falling through. I can only imagine the roots breathing all that air from the bottom!lol,and the water exchange because of this.:-) I love that Container Soils thread, at least what I can understand of it! One thing I did learn, I never knew what a PWT was until I read that thread. That was the culprit to the death of all my plants! Thanks for that thread Al! Thanks for all the great info everyone! Take care all! Mike...See MoreNew lemon tree losing the few leaves it came with – too many blossoms?
Comments (11)Hi Mike, thanks for that encouragement. I wasn't expecting to be able to produce fruit from this tree during the winter months. My first goal would just be to get a single lemon, maybe next summer, maybe the summer after that. I'm patient. The blossoms are wonderful and even just having them bloom is enough to make me happy at this point. I just want to make sure the plant is happy as well. I don't believe it has been warm enough outdoors yet to put this outside. I live in the Canadian maritimes and it's often windy and cool up here. It will be getting quite warm soon but it's only April still. Soon as it's at least room temperature outside, perhaps then is a good time to consider bringing it outside during the day? I have a cold frame I built onto the southwest face of my house where I'm growing my vegetable starts (tomato, pepper, eggplant, etc.). I just stuck it in there today and so far so good. It's about 70% humidity in there. But it still gets down to the single digits (Celsius) at night even though I cover the frame with a couple blankets. Hoping that isn't too cool for the citrus; I might bring it inside at night for the time being. It receives a minimum of 8 hours of sun. I still need to find a good liquid fertilizer. Do I have vinegar... well, sure, I've got white and apple cider in my kitchen. Is that useful for citrus trees? I'm not sure what kind of soil it came with but I can see perlite and the odd wood shaving... It looks fairly coarse. I'm not sure why it took so long to dry out the first time but I'll keep an eye on it....See MoreWhy are my fruit trees only growing leaves at the tips of branches?
Comments (1)Old post, I know. Being badly root bound tends to cause loss of proximal foliage, which consists of leaves close to the trunk and inside of the canopy outline. This causes a pompom, or as you mentioned, a clipped poodle look. If, when you removed the tree from the pot and potted it out, you didn't open the root mass and correct roots that have a distinct tendency to be problematic when grown in a pot, it's still probably horribly root bound. Ideally, when moving a plant from a nursery can into the landscape, the problem roots should be fixed. Roots which are girdling, encircling (which can become girdling) crossing, growing straight up or down, or roots which are j-hooked or growing back toward the center of the root mass should all be removed. The planting hole should then be back-filled with native soil - especially true in clay/ clayish soil but not so much a hard and fast rule in sandy soil. Al...See Moresilica
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