Here's a closer image of the remaining leaves and branches.

That's not the issue. It's ALL the grass under the poor tree, which is literally sucking away all the nitrogen from your poor citrus tree. Also, if the tree is getting hit by the lawn sprinklers, that will spell sure dealth. The spider mites are a symptoms of a severely stressed tree. I would transplant this tree to a place where where is no grass and no lawn sprinklers. Fertilize well, spray for spider mites, and water appropriately (not too wet, not too dry, have no idea what kind of soil you have, so you'll have to water according to your soil type.) If you have clay soil, plant the tree on a mound to encourage good drainage. You'd be surprised at how well citrus will snap back.

Patty S.

Very good advice from Patty...!

Besides, if it were spider mite damage, your grass would of stayed green and your leaves, whats left of them would look mottled...

MIke

Cagoldbear:

What part of Houston? That looks like a lot of trees I've seen around town. Patty has good advice. And a raised bed may have to be built eventually. But first I would examine the plant and make sure it has the crown is above grade an inch or two. Then get some pH paper or a pool test kit and test your water. If it is much above 7 then adjust it down by making a garbage can of acidified water using white vinegar. Start with 1 coffee measure to ~30 gal. and retest.

Much of the city, especially west and south have highly alkaline water and trees on trifoliate and its hi-brides are in need of special care.

As for spider mite webs, the spring is time for real baby spiders to hatch and cast off on the wind by throwing silk and flying away. They usually do it in March but this year was later. Get a magnifying glass and look at top and bottom of the leaves. Spider mites can also be seen by putting a white paper under the leaves and shaking them off onto the paper. Look for a faint red dust. The leaves may be stipelled from the mites attack. But Patty is probably right about it not being them.

Larry

Awesome, I was very concerned about the spider mites, it sounds like it is one heckuva deal to get rid of. This is our first citrus tree, and my father-in-law planted it while he was in town from Northern California. We're out in Katy, which is a clay gumbo soil. I can guarantee you that we did not amend the soil, nor did he/"we" plant it with a raised bed at all. I have allowed the grass to grow over, the St. Augustine just loves all the water its getting. I have a peach tree that I'd like to put in just close to there, and I wonder if I could transplant/switch them. Can I still do that, this late in spring?

I will definitely trim back the grass this weekend, to the soil line. I fertilized two weeks ago, but the fertilizer probably just went to the grass, as I scattered the citrus pellets on top of the grass (idiot, I know). Should I re-fertilize once I pull the grass back? Also, should I add some mulch around it to assist drainage? Alternately, if I relocate the tree to a much much drier area that will require hose watering, would that work?

Additionally, I've heard conflicting advice that the Meyer is a dwarf species, and this 'little' guy hasn't really grown at all since I picked him up, even after a year in the ground. Is this accurate, and should I plan on it being a small tree? I think I've had him since Mothers Day 2012, and no fruit production, just lots of fussiness.

Ugh, so many questions! I LOVE lemons, but this one little tree is definitely giving me a run for information!!!

Thanks for all the fantastic advice.

If you can find Natures Way mulch in a bag it is partially composted and will not rob too much nitrogen from your tree. When I go to their place for yard a of mulch I get a special blend they sell for citrus, half regular native mulch, and half their azalea mulch which has a lot of pine tops and extra sulfur for acidity. Expect 4-5 ft/yr of growth from this mulch in good soil. High levels of nutrients are available since they make this from twigs which have a large proportion of cambium layer which is the only growing part of the tree. You will get less growth in gumbo clay but better growth than without because earthworms will feed on the mulch then work the nutrients down into the gumbo.

A distant second would be large pine bark "nuggets". Do not use non-composted woody mulches. Break a few pieces apart and examine for white wood. Never use hardwood BARK mulches since have high calcium and cause even more alkalinity problems. Always keep the mulch clear of the trunk.

More citrus trees are killed from settling below grade than any other problem. When potting mix goes away, the unsupported tree settles and gets crown rot.

I see that Nature's Way is up in Conroe, but I can pick some up at Wabash here in the Galleria area (by my office). I think the tree has certainly settled since its planting. Do you suppose I can pull it out now and work some of the soil underneath, or should I 1) clear the grass, 2) apply the citrus mulch around the drip line, not touching the trunk, and 3) re-fertilize - how about that plan? I wonder if I can transplant it now, since it will inevitably get lots of water from its location in the yard.

Tantanman is giving you great advice. I'd get the tree out of the lawn, sounds like it is also getting hit by lawn sprinklers? Sure death for a citrus tree. Better to get it out of the lawn, which is competing (and winning) all the nitrogen from the soil and from fertilizing. Just a bad place to plant any citrus tree, especially a Meyer lemon. Re-plant in a mound planting to improve drainage. Drip your tree. If you have lawn sprinklers, you can set up a drip system for your citrus, it's quite easy to do.

Patty S.

Transplant now especially if the forecast is for cloudy weather. A few days ago would have been better. Wabash has Microlife 6-2-4.

My two options for transplanting are a side yard with no irrigation or I can plant it in a large 15gal planter. Is be able to control the soil then. Should I do the planter?

It is definitely getting hit by the sprinkler. Is direct contact an issue for all fruit trees? I have a peach that I'd like to put in there but maybe I should put both of those into the large pots until we set up the drip line system.

I ripped up the grass at the drip line for both this now yellow Meyer and also the Valencia orange that I have about 15 feet away. It doesn't seem to have the same problem though.

The lemon does not make much difference. The orange will do lot better in the ground. In the ground, the orange will be juicier and sweeter, and will not be so much at risk for splitting due to drying out too much in the pot.