Somewhere above there was a mention of bean transplants and while it is possible to carefully do that it doesn't really work well... rhizobia aren't usually in the potting media and adding too much N to the biosphere will prevent them from colonizing and nodulating the roots. You will get foliage but no flower or fruit with all that excess N. The do sell soil innoculant, which i recommend adding to any new bed if you haven't got a compost bin to add your own microbes. It's not just the nutrients you need to worry about, it's the microbiome. Soil bacteria break down sulfur to lower the ph and allow micronutrients to be absorbed by root hairs. Others break down phosphorus and make it soluble for plants. Some fix N. Some just secrete enzymes that degrade oomycete pathogens like phytopthera. Some produce plant growth regulators and help with root hair growth and stomatal conductance. Others prime plant immune systems so they are able to defend themselves rapidly when pathogens attack.

JoeReal, did your research include the effects of such products in mulch-specific biodynamic mound plantings? I have a large garden and only used it on the raised bed tomatoes. All was mulched, however, with wood chips and straw. The mulch under the tomatoes is "moldy" and you can pick up "chunks". To me, this shows at least one of the positive factors of the product: decomp. The rest does not have this consistency. It is also more broken down in the under-layers. Just an observation. I don't really agree that it doesn't work in most soils, but I would agree that different strains found in the products would act / react differently to different soils (re: successive growth, spore germination, dominant species). Which would lead to be more successful in certain locales. I also agree that competition is a strong factor, but again there are many strains of fungi / bacteria in each product and if one has a foothold it would be strong. Plus I think there is a lot of good to adding products at the seed level. This is how they inoculate trees for truffles- so why not myco products for vege's, flowers, and landscapes? I think your points are highly salient when considering agriculture as a business. But considering you can now get these products included in fertilizers (rainbow bloom is one I have used) or as a 5 dollar stand alone product, it is my opinion that it would be a good investment for the hobby soil gardener or anyone who uses sterilized / pasteurized balanced soils- like most potting soils. I really like what you say about Organics vs. organics. Just to point out how confusing some of my posts were, i actually refer mostly to organic material based products and not certified Organic products. But I do believe that in the future the certified products will take up a significantly greater market share, especially as more and more people find out how well it works over time. And (if this happens) as the use of chems decrease, manufacturers will find them more expensive to process, package, and supply- seeking financially favorable alternatives (total organic approach, in bulk). This would all be positive because regardless of any soil capabilities, chems are still more likely to burn fauna and flora and wash out into our rivers and streams (and into the natural world where it is not welcome). Amending your soil only with certified products after a few years (unless it's virgin) IS organic growing. Which is really just semantics unless your growing a product for sale to the pubic (it is a legal business term for a specific product), you are a results oriented grower (competition or public display) or if you garden from a moralistic / ethical perspective (it is an environmental reform term). The latter describes the most common "organic" grower- who is usually happy with "better" products as opposed to "best". At this time, when certified products are few and far between (and priced as such) for the average person who doesn't fit any description, the distinction is essentially moot. To All: Fertilizing is a hot topic to us in cooler climates. Yep, if you just water them they will grow. They are pretty awesome that way. BUT if you live in zone 5 like myself, and you really want to see your banana back next year, you want as much growth as possible- particularly in the roots- each season. Not to say it should be obsessed over, but it is more important in the cold areas for bananas. We don't have to worry so much about them taking anything over.

Well, I'll chime in with a straight face, MOL..... my 'maters are all in pots, and need water at least twice a day, I mix up some MG in a bucket and pour some into each bucket I have next to each plant, I keep that water-bucket there so all I have to do is dip out some water and not drag the hose all over the yard.. so essentially I am giving each 'mater some liquid fertilizer each time I water...I won't even speculate at what strength but the water is blue, from the MG... most of my 'maters are getting pretty big, they are from last year's planting Tom brought me.... but they are still setting fruit so I keep them going even tho' they are pot-bound now.....I speculate that the only thing that keeps them going is the liquid fert., by now, because any other nutrient in the potting-mix has been long-gone..... works for me.... sally

I fought this for years and here is where it lead me. Using synthetics can and will produce more as well as more dependable results 100% of the time IF you know exactly what you are doing. That means if you don't hold a degree in the field,it will be hit and miss even asking questions of people who hold the degrees and know exactly what they are doing. Problem is the expert must see and touch the plant,know history of soil&run fingers through it and know precisly what has been done including but not limited to,daily weather,amts & timing of water and nutrents up to that point. Organic is the way to go for even for the most dedicated gardeners. Organic is more forgiving of neglect and mistakes eventhough the mistakes and neglect will reduce production,it's not intolerable amounts. Non-organic mistakes often result in drastic results up to and including 100% loss. An often incountered one is where fertilizer is applied then miscalculation of weather and/or moisture occurs. Another is where insectiside is used to rid a pest that is effecting a plant by eating leaves or sucking some juice but not killing it nor ruining all fruit. Benificials on neighboring plant is eradicated and a pest that was being kept in check or shows up suddenly mushrons and ruins one or more crops. Very few things you do organicly will result in such sweeping results,good or bad. The soil should always be in transition for the lack of a better term. This addresses fertilize applications. In any container or plot , I try to insure there are diverse types and stages of finished compost. That insures that as micros are consumed replacements are being produced. I believe far too much gravity is afforded N being tied up by deterioating matter. Dumping a lot of fresh material like saw dust with huge amounts of exposed surface will definitly starve plants until rate of decomposition slows. A case where there is negitive results but usualy recovers enough to produce a fair to poor crop. Turning under green cover like vetch can realy supply season long crop fuel. I just cannot stress enough how important it is to understand your plants and that will happen with experience and experience will come sooner by asking inteligent questions of those willing to help. In an effort of convincing sceptics that it is possiable to read plants,I offer some off topic evidence. Try this out if you know a rancher,not nessarly an old crusty one, a cowperson in their 20s is quite capiable. Drive him/her to a herd they have never been around and without leaving the seat of the vehicle they can tell you; very near the age,the sex,weight and breed/mixture of breed for each animal while average person is deciding what color they are. If alowed to walk near them (many cattle dislike and will run away from strangers) closly estimate stage of pregnancy while our novice wonders why the one giving birth within a week is not fat as the one who has 3 months to go. Think about human faces. Isn't it amazing that we can differinate all of them. Practice!