***"Also when I turn the flywheel slow counterclockwise it makes a sound like "phphphphssss" almost like a soda bottle when it is opened slowly. Sounds like something is draining."** Is this happening when the spark plugs are removed from the engine?? If yes....is the "phphphphssss" coming from the fuel pump??? ............................................. To define "UP" & "DOWN" as relating to piston movement, learn this: When a piston is moving TOWARD the cylinder head, the direction of movement is referred to as UPWARD, or UP. When the piston is moving AWAY FROM the cylinder head, it is referred to as DOWNWARD or DOWN. This applies to all reciprocating engines regardless of the engine configuration. Just remember that the terms are for one specific cylinder at a time, no matter the total number of cylinders the engine has, or which direction they may be pointing (clock position). ...................................................... With both cylinder heads removed, turn the flywheel while watching either of the pistons. As you turn the flywheel, is this piston moving in its cylinder (meaning: traveling upward or downward). Turn the flywheel until it reaches the point of "abrupt stop". Now, watch the same piston while you turn the flywheel in the opposite direction. Does this piston move in the opposite direction JUST AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE OPPOSITE WAY? or does it seem that the flywheel rotates a few degrees before the piston begins to move in the cylinder? Continue turning the flywheel until it abruptly stops again. Now, watch the same piston as you turn the flywheel again in the direction you first turned it. Does the piston begin to move in the opposite direction immediately? or does the flywheel seem to rotate a few degrees before the piston begins to move? Go to the second cylinder and repeat the steps above for that cylinder. What we are doing in this "test" is determining whether the piston, connecting rod, and crankshaft are still intact (I only mean they are still connected together as an assembly). Due to the "1.25 turn" you cite, I expect you to find that one of the pistons will have a "dead zone" of movement in its travel. This is when the flywheel rotates a few degrees without the piston moving. The "dead zone" of movement will be at the max UP and max DOWN positions. If you find this to be true, the connecting rod is very likely "burned up" from loss of lubrication due to the oil being thinned out by gasoline contamination. If you find the "dead zone" of piston travel, you will want to compare the piston travel distance of one cylinder to the other. Using a ruler or other device, record the depth (position of piston at its max DOWN point and at its max UP point) of each piston and cylinder. Measure from the top edge of the cylinder to the top of piston. Do this for both cylinders and compare the depth figures. The cylinder having the lower value (shorter travel) will be the affected cylinder. If you detect a "dead zone" of piston travel on BOTH CYLINDERS, that means BOTH connecting rods are likely burned up. In this case do the following. Turn the fly wheel until one of the pistons reaches the max UP point for that piston. When it is at max UP, measure distance from top of cylinder to top of piston (or mark the cylinder at the top edge of piston with a crayon or pencil) Next,turn the flywheel in the opposite direction until the piston "just begins to move". When this piston begins to move, stop turning the flywheel. Using a non metallic tool (hammer HANDLE, piece of broom handle, or a dowel), push downward on this piston (hold the flywheel stationary when doing this). The piston will move in the cylinder and then stop. Measure the distance the piston moved in the cylinder and record that. Repeat the steps on the opposite cylinder. .......................................................... While each piston is in its DOWN position, inspect the cylinder walls. Are the cylinder walls nice and shiny, and smooth with a glossy surface appearance? Or are they full of rough, scratchy looking grooves that run up and down the cylinder walls? Do the above "tests" and report back with your findings. .............................................. To respond to the post by johntommybob about the possibility of the starter causing the engine to "abruptly stop" when it is being turned. Consider that the drive pinion gear on the starter is very small and has few teeth compared to the engine flywheel ring gear. This means that the armature (rotor) of the starter must turn many revolutions in order to turn the flywheel one revolution. Conversely, when turning the flywheel by hand, one revolution (or 1.25 revolution) of the flywheel would cause the starter drive pinion gear to rotate many revolutions. If the "binding" or "abrupt stop" cited in this case were due to a locked up starter, I would think that the flywheel would be "un-turnable" at all. AND it would require that the starter drive pinion gear be "stuck into" the ring gear as well. Since the starter might be burned up (remember the smoke), it would not hurt to go ahead and take the starter off the engine anyway. I just don't expect to find the starter as the cause of the "abrupt stop" symptom seen here.

Very carefully clear away any mulch, leaves, grass, etc. from the base. Use a cultivating hand tool to work around the base of the plant like you were going to fertilize it. Measure the diameter of an imaginary circle around the base of the plant. Now take a single ply piece of black plastic 2 x 2 feet and cut a circle from the middle of the plastic so it will fit around the base of your hibiscus. Put bricks or rocks at the corner to hold it down. The plastic will help heat the soil and stimulate growth from the roots. Now mix your favorite powdered fertilizer like Schultz's, Peter's, MiracleGro, etc. with water and fertilize the plant. I'll bet within 2 weeks you will see growth.

Even here in the SE, where there is no winter dieback, ES does not grow very tall. I planted a 3G sized one 4 years ago and it is now only about 4½ft. tall, but is about 5ft. wide. After 2 years of becoming established, when it produced only a few flowers, it now produces more than 100 during the first flush and continues to bloom until frost. It continues to amaze me with it's drought tolerance. Planted in a location that receives full afternoon sun for about 8 hrs. and with a total of only 3½in. of rainfall during the past 4½months, it has not required any additional water. Even with a string of 100°F (and+) days and no rainfall for 3 weeks, the foliage does not severely wilt during the afternoon and recovers overnight. Still producing new foliage and flowers! Wish I had not given away the other 3, purchased at the same time (end of season, practically giveaway pricing)! Rb

I'm afraid I have nothing to suggest. As you say blackcurrant is incredibly easy to grow from cuttings. Any stick shoved in the ground will grow in my experience. Maybe yours isn't Ribes nigrum but a different Ribes? Especially if it doesn't have the characteristic smell and taste.