If the tree holds the fruit, go ahead and eat it. Nothing wrong with that. Copper is copper...its all organic...comes in different forms but its mostly just the concentration of copper that you are worried about. You may have to spray several times. Some of that stuff is expensive. I sprayed early this spring right before the buds broke and I still lost almost every leaf on one of my trees. I think what I was using just wasn't strong enough. Some peaches are more resistant...two of mine have hardly any curl. If you can keep the tree completely dry until the leaves unfold you won't have any (my container peaches are almost curl free having spent many spring rains in the garage/they weren't sprayed at all). I guess this is a real bad year. MSU (Michigan State University) is seeing a lot of curl in orchards.

The best way to water is by applying water evenly over the soil surface until the soil is completely saturated and water is draining from the drain hole. Stop watering. Return in 10-15 minutes and water again until at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole. Alternately, water slowly over the entire surface until at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole. This practice prevents an unhealthy accumulation of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution. Watering only until you first observe water exiting the drain, then stopping, ensures an accumulation of dissolved solids. Also, most hobby growers are using a soil that is overly water-retentive. In deeper pots, there can be several (up to 6 or more) inches of soil that is 100% saturated at the bottom of the pot when the top 2-3 inches of soil feels completely dry. Use a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water. When the tell comes out nearly dry, it's time to water. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Photos are there so good job with that :-) However, it would be more informative to see a photo of the entire tree taken from a distance. I would still not be able to confirm whether or not Verticillium wilt was the problem but wilitng in sections or restricted to individual branches is very characteristic of the symptoms of this disease. The only way to confirm is to take one of the affected branches to your extention service office and have it evaluated by a plant pathologist.

The reason I asked if they were seed grown trees is that seed grown Citrus can take what seems forever to flower until they reach a certain node count or height. I'm in NYC and I get grafted trees to bloom that are less than 10 years old. I have 2 seedling trees (Citrangequat and Morton) several years old and they have never bloomed. PIC#2 is hard to tell if its a grafted tree but how long has it been in that pot (2 gal?)? It may be rootbound as well, with circling roots choking itself. Maybe a root inspection possible repot is in order. Do you have a slug/snails problem, usually you see snails they will sleep under a leaf even in the day but slugs hide in the soil until night. You may have to go out and look with a flashlight. It can't hurt to spray with insecticidal soap. As Silica suggested you also have to up your fertilizer game. I use Jacks and/or mitacle grow for acid loving trees plus I sprinkle Osmocote plus in the container to provide micronutrients.