If this were mine. I would turn into cuttings. It won't grow new leaves in the bare stem, Cut each stem about one inch below the last leaf. Let callus for a day. The stems are small so you shouldn't need any longer than a day or two for calluses to form over the fresh cuts. During those days keep in a dry shady spot on a paper towel. When a scab has formed over the cuts you can plant into a fast draining mix. I don't know what planting medium you're going to use, but it would be a good idea to add at least half pumice or perlite to mix. Even if the bagged soil says for succulents it usually has peat in it. Peat is no bueno for succulents long term. Peat can retain water or once dried out it can become very hydrophobic. So adding at least half perlite or pumice really helps with drainage, and stops the peat from becoming like concrete. When soil becomes like concrete it chokes the roots of your plants. Dont water the cuttings until roots form and no harsh sun. Just keep in an area with bright light not direct sun. With this plant you should get roots in about two weeks. Kalenchoes are usually fast when it comes to throwing out roots:). Once roots form you can begin to water and acclimating to more light. Goodluck:).

Hi, I see that many of your Crassulaceans (Sedums, Echeverias, etc.) are severely etiolated. Obviously they are in desperate need of increased light, but your setup seems sufficient. Do you know how potent your growing lamps are? How many hours per day they are on? How close they are to each plant? Knowing this would help because this seems to be a light issue over anything else. Do you have access to windowsills or the outdoors? All of my succulents are faced to western or southern windows (inside), and there have been no light problems (and I'm on the East Coast!). Also, you should not worry about overwatering-- it all depends on your soil mixture. Bonsai Jack (which you had mentioned) has a great gritty mix that was designed for succulents. It is good for beginners, as it is almost impossible to overwater while using it. Using your current setup, do NOT fertilize. Never fertilize when the plants are not getting sufficient sun, as they will grow more etiolated without proper light conditions. And in regards to the C. lehmanii, it is normal for it not to look instantly better overnight. I have many mesembs, and watering when they are severely wrinkled is a gradual process. They must have continual soakings (but let the pot air out before each one) to be restored back to turgidity.

Update: Some of the succulents I planted into gritty mix have been shriveling, which I thought was thirst, but watering didn't help... so I realized they're probably rotting. The tall sticks (which I thought were "Minima" Jades but after seeing a lookaIike at Home Depot, I think are actually Portulacaria afra) are definitely rotting away from the tips and new shoots down. :( So I think I need to pull these out, wash the old soil off the roots, remove any rotten parts, and let dry. I have a few questions: 1) if the stem is rotting, what does that look like, and how much stem/leaves should I remove? 2) Can I leave any roots if they look OK, and does drying them out kill them anyway? Or is this essentially like making a cutting and letting it callous and make new roots? 3) Once they dry can I just replant them where they were in the gritty mix? On a more fun note, I went to Home Depot yesterday intending to buy zero succulents and instead spent an hour taking pictures and purchasing 7 new ones! And to my delight, all but one had an actual species ID! Clockwise from top left: Kalanchoe marnieriana Crassula rupestris Crassula "Candy Cane" (with a warning that propagation is prohibited... how would they stop you?) Sedum rubrotinctum "Pork and Beans" Crassula ovata "Ogre Ears" Sedum rubrotinctum "Aurora" ???? that was on clearance with a bunch of very sick and damaged succulents, but it looks healthy enough to me! Here's a closeup of it - anyone know what it is? The Ogre Ears had mealy bugs so I doused all of them with 50% rubbing alcohol last night. I also watered them because their soil all seemed bone dry, which I'm learning maybe I really shouldn't need to do? :/ I want to transplant them to gritty mix today (and do it right this time! Wash off all the soil and let dry). Also at Home Depot, I think I was able to better ID some of my current succulents, like the Crassula ovata "Minima" (#8) actually being a Portulacaria afra. The original mystery plant could possibly be Sedeveria "Sorrento"? Though the leaves look bigger/fatter on this one than they were on mine: OR possibly Sedeveria "Jet Beads"? These leaves aren't bigger but they do seem fatter than what I have... Not sure either of these are it: #3 Could actually be Graptosedum "Blue Giant"? A very similar-looking succulent was labeled this at HD, but I can't find photos to confirm it online. Maybe it's actually Sedeveria "Blue Giant"? #6 I thought looked like a plant labeled Sedeveria "Harry Butterfield," but looking online, it doesn't look right to me... #18 Senecio vitalis (Narrow-Leaf Chalksticks) #19 Graptopetalum pentandrum - EDIT: Actually more likely G. superbum #22 Sedum adolphii (Golden Sedum), instead of Coppertone Sedum? Looking forward to anyone's feedback about replanting and ID'ing these! Thanks!

It looks like a few of the stems are rotting at the soil line (maybe I'm wrong and it's just the way the photo looks?). If that's the case, cut the rotting parts off, wait a bit for the stems to callous, and repot in a smaller pot with drainage (or one to a pot if you'd like) in 1:1 soil:Perlite. Even if I'm wrong about the rot, you should still repot in a better mix, otherwise you'll likely run into rot in the future. You can also basically cut them in half if you want to keep it from toppling over, but the roots and stems should be strong enough to support the plant as-is (that's the other reason I suspect rot, but again, I could be wrong). They do look like they're growing nice and tight, which means they're getting good light.