Rooting Cuttings - What's Your Method?

16 years ago

I thought this might be helpful to us all - especially to the newly addicted & obsessed beginners of the Brugs! :) Let's see what works best for each of us! My method is as follows:

I put cuttings in clear glass jars using distilled water in about 2" of water (changing daily) until the white "nubbies" appear. Make sure they get alot of light - but no direct sunlight. I then pot them up in 16 oz. or 9 oz. plastic cups (with holes in the bottom). I use my own potting mixture - which consists of Schultz Perlite (8 qt. bag) mixed thoroughly with Schultz Peat Moss (8 qt. bag). This mixture seems to have good drainage. This works for me. I also use the bubbler method - which currently I have three going at the same time. I've posted a link to that method if anyone is interested. It's very informative & has alot of great ideas & a special thanks to Georgia for posting this great method! :) Happy brugging!

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Bucket-o-Brugs

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Comments (32)

oxmyx
16 years ago
I'm with you Mike.

Cup o water first, and wait for signs of roots. One little root, pot immediately with a good course potting soil. If no success after a week I will start in a perlite sphagnum peat mixture. The sphagnum wards off rot and disease!
chena
16 years ago
I have a couple of BOB's going but I also have about 30 jars on the buffet that I change the water in daily...When I cut I put them in a liquid seaweed and rain water solution for 2 days then just to regular tap water..I pot them up if I have potting soil, pots, time and space..LOL otherwise I keep them where they are...They don't seem to mind... most of the end cuttings will hold their leaves thru the process..Makes for a pretty plant when you do pot them...
Chena
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What are you supposed to do when you want to plant the cutting in the ground, out in the yard? I've had just about 100% sucess with starting cuttings. I think the key is to make sure there is good contact between the soil and the cuttings. If there is any air space whatever, the roots growing from the cutting can dry out and die. What I do is make a hole in the ground with a metal rod a little smaller than the cutting I want to start. Then I Force the cutting into the hole, which insures very good contact between it and the soil. I also put a circle of grass clippings around the cutting, to keep the soil moister and cooler. The clippings should not actually touch the cutting. Another little tip: if the cutting puts out leaves and looks fine for a few days, then suddenly starts to wilt if the weather warms up, shading it with a cardboard box can save it. What can happen is warmer weather results in the leaves transpiring more water than the just-developing roots can absorb. So the leaves wilt, and the cutting could die. Shading it significantly reduces water lost by transpiration, sometimes enough to be the difference between life and death for the cutting. I had one grape cutting in just three months in Spring grow 29 feet!
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Hi Jenn, you're welcome! It really isn't all that difficult to wring out the paper. I like using three full sheets. I unfold them, laying them out flat, then put my hand right in the center, wrapping them around my hand and wrist while dunking them into a bucket of water for a few minutes. I pull them out, gently folding them into a twist and wring them out. There is a little tearing some times, but not terribly. If you're careful, you can wring out most of the water with little tearing because of the thickness of the three sheets. If it's more comfortable for you, fold them the best you can and run an old rolling pin from the kitchen over them until they no longer drip, but are thoroughly wet/damp. With the wet paper still twisted from wringing them out, grab the "rope" of wet paper in the center then just gently shake it back and forth. It will begin to loosen and fall open. It makes it easier for you to spread them out as a wet, three layer sheet. Process your cuttings and lay them in the center of the sheet with a label. Once you're finished processing all the cuttings, fold over the top and bottom of the sheet, the ends at the top and bottom of the cuttings, then begin rolling them tightly into the "burrito". Make sense? I've also laid out the three sheets of paper on the deck and thoroughly wet them with the hose, but that uses more water, so I prefer the bucket. My concern is your spray bottle may not sufficiently wet the paper. Dipping or dunking them into a bucket of water does. If the paper tears a bit, don't worry, just spread it out as flat as you can and use it. You'll have several layers of damp paper rolled up encasing the cuttings to provide them sufficient moisture so it isn't a real issue. If you're doing several batches, just put each burrito into a plastic bag to prevent it from drying and add each one to the bag as you complete it. Once you're finished with them all, gently squeeze out the excess air from the bag and tie it shut. I then put this one upside down into another bag and repeat the process. I've usually used three bags together, each one reversed from the other, to provide as much of a seal against moisture loss as possible, then placed them in the dresser drawer in the garage to keep them cool. When the weather is conducive for the work room attached to the garage to remain in the sixties degree range, I've also just laid them on a shelf in that room where they've also worked just fine. I understand what you meant about putting them on the refrigerator now, thank you. As long as the heat from the motor doesn't warm them, and they remain in the approximate temperature range, all should work just fine. I'm excited to follow your progress! Many years ago, very dear friends retired from this area and moved into the mountains north of Los Angeles. She was sad she had to leave the three bushes of Circus she planted at that house shortly after they bought it in the early sixties. After the move, I knocked on the door and introduced myself to the new owners and requested permission to take cuttings, explaining why I wanted them. They were delighted to share them with me. Both Janne and I were excited when I visited and handed her several own root plants of her beloved Circus, propagated from her old plants. She had some of her old garden, where she'd happily lived for thirty plus years and raised her six children, to grace her "retirement" garden. That connection with your old plant is a happy one. Been there many times and plan on many more! Kim
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Hi Holly, you're welcome! If you try soft wood cuttings, the wraps won't work. You'll need to either do something like Mel Hulse suggested in The Rose Rustler's Tool Kit (linked below), or the bottle method others have had success with and has been offered here on the forums. My micro climate doesn't work covering cuttings and it's arid enough that uncovered, most soft wood cuttings fail, so I can't offer you advice on that method. If the material you wrapped wasn't sufficiently dormant, it may not have contained sufficient stored nutrients to carry it through the rooting process. They won't absorb nor generate food until they have roots and leaves, so the several weeks required between cutting and wrapping them, and formation of new leaves and roots all require the food the cuttings already contain. That's why in my garden (climate) I don't have success with most until late December to mid January as they don't shut down enough to contain what they need until then. In particularly warmer "winters", they may not store enough nutrients at all, as they never really "shut down". In colder climates, they could probably be successfully wrapped earlier and even much later than here because they remain dormant longer. Mine began growing and flowering in February, so my window was quite short this year. I did have success with cuttings taken from my sister's garden in Newhall up in the Santa Clarita Valley, where it's been colder so the roses didn't begin pushing until a few weeks after mine did here in Encino. If you're seeing roots out the soil bottoms, sure, lift them higher, exposing more of the cuttings. You might want to do that first while leaving them in the dappled light, unless it's very damp/humid in your garden. In wetter conditions, you can safely put them in greater sunlight without the fear of them frying. I'm experiencing a bit of fry now that it's getting a lot more intense, but the only ones not succeeding are the ones I expected to have issues with. I wrapped some I've never had much luck with to see if that would vary from year to year. I also wrapped material which wasn't in the greatest shape to experiment. Those are the ones which aren't doing as well, but most are coming along as I expected them to. A few probably too well! The Smart and Final (great place!) 16 oz foam cups are what I've found the most cost effective and easiest to use until they out grow that size. Then I put them into gallons, but the 16 oz size is fine for quite a few weeks and I'm getting my third year of use out of most of them so they're particularly cost effective. Good luck! Kim Here is a link that might be useful: The Rose Rustler's Toolkit
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I do pre-soaked 50/50 perlite/potting mix in clear containers. Then add an 3/4 inch of 100% fine dry vermiculite on top to seal out any fungus gnats or moisture loss. Then place them in a plastic ziplock bag. Once I see the roots in the cup and buds are starting to swell I take them out of the bag and put them on a south facing window (use suction cup shampoo holders). I put the clear cups in red solo cups to absorb heat and block UV from damaging the roots. Then I can pull the clear cups out and take a peek at development anytime. For watering if any pools at the bottom of the cup its too wet. If nothing condenses on the inside of the clear cup in full sun its too dry.
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karmahappytoes
16 years ago
Come on you guys?? LOL I just cut and stick into soil and it grows, even roses!! LOL Who fusses over these??
sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
16 years ago
karma I want some of your soil! Or perhaps just your green thumb lol. I miss Louisiana where I could just spit on something and it would grow :P. When I lived there I threw a few brug tips under the deck once and a few mos. later they were growing up through the slats!

With brug cuttings I put them in a glass with lukewarm reg tap water. I change it for sure twice a day. More if I'm home and think about it. Soon as I see nubbies and maybe one tiny root coming out, they go into potting soil mixed with perlite.
karyn1
16 years ago
I stick cuttings of everything in jars with an aerator. I use regular tap water. I don't change it unless it looks funky but that's why I use the aerator. I don't want to have to change the water. lol I stick green cuttings in soil if it's something I want, otherwise they get tossed. I don't have the room to keep pots during the winter. The brug cuttings sit in water all throughout the winter until I can get them potted outside.
Karyn
chena
16 years ago
Karma!!!!!You make me laugh.. I guess If I had a 25 ft Brug tree.. then I wouldn't worry that much about the jars on the buffet....LOLOLOL
Chena
technodweeb
16 years ago
Karmaaaaaaaaaaaa. . yer makin' me feel baaaad! LOL
oxmyx
16 years ago
karyn1

Thats good to know, Leaving them in the glass all winter. Hmmm
Very helpful for one with a thousand plants and limited space
bonnie12210
16 years ago
Hi all I am a new to your little show but I have a question,in other word Please help me.I just bought a new brug,a variegated peaches and cream.Do I cut it back and root in water the same as my other brugs? Thanks Bonnie
chena
16 years ago
Hey Bonnie!!!
WELCOME.. as I understand. they root better in soil than water..I don't have that one tho... There are some real experts here that can probably guide you down the right path...Best of luck !!
Chena
bonnie12210
16 years ago
Chena, Thank you I am so excited to have found this group,my email addy is qualitycuat@prtcnet.com,and I would be grateful for any info on the brugs I can get,I just started two years ago,and I just feed off of them,I have pale yellow,and the new one the variegated peaches and cream,I am trying to get the deep pink color,but not for the price on ebay.So Thanks for the welcome.Bonnie
karmahappytoes
16 years ago
Bonnie12210, Chena if right that B P&C is best rooted in soil with a little bottom heat. This one is a slow grower that loves pure shade and do not over winter it in the dormant state. This one should be grown year round with heat and light! Best of luck!!
karyn1
16 years ago
I don't have P&C but I did cut a branch of my Maya a couple days ago. It's a fat branch that I stuck in the bucket with the other cuttings and it has already started rooting. As far as variegated brugs go that's the hardiest one I have. I only have 3 variegated varieties so there's not much material for comparison. I do keep them inside under lights over the winter.
Karyn
bonnie12210
16 years ago
Thanks so much for the warm welcome,I will let you know how things go,do I need growing lights or just a lighted room for the P&C,you all are great Thank you.Just for the info I am in Laurens SC.Bonnie
karyn1
16 years ago
I'd get a grow light. If you just have a couple plants one of the spots should work well enough. It's not only the lack of intensity but the shorter hours of daylight that are a problem with indoor plants over the winter. My lights are on timers and go on at 6 am, off at 1 pm then on again from 5-8 pm. I want the plants to get a total of about 14 hours of light. If it's a cloudy day I'll let the lights run continuously from 6 am to 8 pm.
Karyn
bonnie12210
16 years ago
Okay I need help again,remember the P&C variegated cutting,well now I have been given a 4 foot plant,what do I do with that,do I keep in the house over the winter,do I cut it back,oh me oh my,last year I had to take the leaf out of the dinning room table now it looks like the table has to go.Help !!!!!Bonnie
karyn1
16 years ago
I keep my variegated and other slower growing brugs inside and under lights throughout the winter. I feed them very infrequently, if at all while inside. When I do feed them inside it's with a diluted all purpose fertilizer.
Karyn
gee8ch
16 years ago
KarmaHT & Karyn1: Aughhh! I am SOOO jealous! "Just stick 'em in soil"; "Just leave them in water", you guys are killin' me with envy!!! (I'll be ok in a few minutes ... have to take the special medication) lol. Boy, would I like to have the green thumbs you have ... never mind, as long as you keep teaching this "dummy", I'll keep trying to grow Brugs as beautiful as yours. Thanks for all your advice, Gloria
greenthumbs2000
16 years ago
good morning.

I have been a long time lurker on this forum and have been following your posts with much interest (got a brug and caught the 'fever' several years ago).

I root all my brugs the same way:
miracle grow potting mix (the regular kind, not the one with moisture retention) in a pot that has been 'stringed' with polypro. I then set the pot on one of those disposable tupperware style containers filled with water and a hole in the top through which I run the string. I do not water the pot at all, i just let it draw moisture from the container and make sure the container does not dry out.
I place multiple cuttings per pot (the number depends on the size of cuttings and the pot). in my greenhouse, I usually see new growth in about a week to 10 days, I repot into individual pots at that time.
sibhskylvr
Original Author
16 years ago
greenthumbs2000

Sounds interesting! Do you have a pic of your method? I'm somewhat "stumped" on the string thingie! lol!

Mike
greenthumbs2000
16 years ago
hope this works. i don't know how to upload just the pictures.

Here is a link that might be useful: my 'string thingie' method
ladyamity
16 years ago
As a new Brug-lover, I've always just stuck bits and pieces in slightly damp dirt and a few weeks later I had new Brug leaves on the piece.
Now that I've read so much about this Bubbler method, my dear hubby came home last night with a new Rubbermaid tub (but it's not Rubbermaid, it's some other brand but still looks the same) and a small pump--I'm sooo jazzed!
fool4flowers
16 years ago
Ah, the string thing is just like a self watering wick. I used to do that with african violets. I wonder if those new fancy pots they make for those would work. It absorbs moisture through the porous inner clay pot and the outer one hold the water.
technodweeb
16 years ago
I may have to try that. All kinds of new things to try here!

That sounds kewel!!!
bonnie12210
16 years ago
Chena,see if you have mail.
sibhskylvr
Original Author
16 years ago
greenthumbs2000

Thanks for showing me! I may have to try that method at one point to see how well the cuttings will do! :)

Mike
angelfairy
16 years ago
I cut in lengths about 8"-12" place in jar of warm tap water with a dropperful of my own secret plant potion and NEVER change the water. I add a dropperful once a month and have Brugs growing in glass jars that are two years old! I keep them anywhere I have a free window, but will shade the south and west windows with a sheer curtain in the winter when the sun is too hot.
greylady_gardener
16 years ago
so, angelfairy, do you intend to keep your secret plant potion a secret now? :)
wildflower
16 years ago
Greenthumbs, I like your idea. Sounds like it would give a constant moisture to the soil. Probably never too wet or too dry and the plant would take up more when it needs it. What exactly is the polypro and where to you get it? On a search for it I'm coming up with electical insulation.
greenthumbs2000
16 years ago
wildflower, I get the polypro string in the camping section at walmart. it looks like thin white braided rope and is hollow in the middle.
i think the correct term for it is polypropolene cord.
jeep461
16 years ago
Greenthumbs, Poly rope? I always thought I needed cotton or a braided nylon to wick. I use it the opposite way and elevate to draw bottom moisture away. Now I will have to try the poly cause I have a 900 ft role in the barn. I guess a person could adjust the wicking quantity by the type of rope????

Jim
greenthumbs2000
16 years ago
from my experience, the wicking quantity is more determined by the level of water in the container below that the length of the string.

I have some of those huge plastic 'stuff' boxes that hold 10 1-gallon pots on top each. my strings are all pretty long but when the water level gets down to about 2 inches in the big containers, the wicking is greatly decreased.
I start out with the containers about halfway filled, when it gets low, I have my hubby help and together we lift the top off with the pots on, then I empty and clean the container and add fresh water (about every two months or so).

Rooting Cuttings - What's Your Method?

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Rooting Cuttings - What's Your Method?

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