I can't believe this! I'm seeing BUDS on my Kaffir Lime tree!
meyermike_1micha
10 years ago
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mrsg47
10 years agojohnmerr
10 years agoRelated Discussions
I'm at my wits end! I can't find anyone who sells the tree I want
Comments (9)Thanks everyone for your replies! Snooper, I called Concord Nurseries and they don't sell this tree anymore. He said the demand went down for it. He said that demand goes up and down for all trees and that the Globe Norway Maple is a great and hardy tree and good luck on finding it. Ken, I understand what you are saying about monocultures, but this is not a garden. I am lining one side of my property with the trees, not making a garden or anything close to it. This is our taste and just as I am sick and tired of seeing Crimson Kings and Red Maples up and down my road, i have to respect such property owner's taste. We happen to love the look of this tree and we also are happy it doesn't get too tall because of power line issues. I found a nursery in a nearby county who will be able to easily get the trees for me come spring. He said he sells the trees from time to time and that he personally likes them but their popularity waxes and wanes. I am very happy to be able to now put this tree searcg anxiety to rest. lol I am sorry to hear that you have had trouble locating items for so long. I am sure me griping about a few weeks must have come across as petulant and I apologize. I have never even planted a flower before so this is all knew to me. Just last week I planted grass seed and today saw some grass start to perk up through the grass seed. I felt like I had won the lottery. lol Hey, it's a start? Thank you for your link. I called them and they had 4 of them, but I need 5. One of the four was "bushier" than the other too she said. We want 5 from the same grower as I have heard that is better instead of buying one here and 3 from there.... Brandon, I will be babying these trees like you wouldn't believe; already looking at tree shelters and protectors for them. lol I won't let a pest issue even begin, but if it does I'll be on top of it so it won't get out of hand. I have been reading it is a pretty hardy tree.... rhizo, I can't believe more people don't love this tree, but people in Oregon and Canada (about 2 hours from here) are growing this tree all over the place so there IS demand somewhere, especially when the several places I called in Oregon only had a few left. We love the tree. It's the shape that makes it so beautiful imo. Everyone around here has the exact same thing so we look forward to providing a little variety for people. Misshenry, I called ForestFarm and yes they told me $39 for the tree and $85 for delivery for each tree. Considering the prices of some other trees we had earlier considered from nurseries around here, that were running $170-300 a tree, we considered FF's price, even with shipping, to be a bargain. Bboy, tell me how you really feel about the tree? lol You think it looks like the end result of mal pruning? Yikes. If you saw the moncoulture of all that is in my area you would long for something different. I think Crimson Kings and Red Maples, all Oaks, and Christmas trees grown for privacy, which is done all the time around here, one of the most yawn-inducing things you can do to your yard, but like in all things, your mileage may vary. Thanks again, everyone, for your replies and help. I was directed to nurseryguide.com by a grower which led me to a grower in OR which then they gave me a list of growers in my area that ordered from them and the rest is history. Now the hard part is the wait til spring....Have a good weekend everyone....See MoreHow do I grow my kaffir lime tree main stem (dwarf variety)
Comments (3)if you can post a picture that would help with and assessment. I couple of ideas that come to mind would be this the tree will naturally try and grow upright so you could leave it be and see if a new branch tries to become the new leader. You could train the branch you have left to be the new leader by using the techniques that bonsai growers use. I had an off balance meyer that I tied one branch off to the pot to pull it the direction I wanted it to grow. After a couple of months it kept that direction on its own You could "pug" it meaning cutting the whole tree off, ABOVE THE GRAFT and let the new branches that will grow form the new canopy. the main trunk will most likely flush new growth at or just below the cut and will grow vertically again if it doesnt die off. Give it some good fertilizer and wait it out. Mike...See MoreKaffir lime tree struggling (ok, maybe it's dying!)
Comments (1)Plants should receive a DEEP watering at least once per week, preferably by a hand held hose. Little sips of water might not soak to the depth of the root system. Citrus require full sun conditions in order to thrive. This means 6 hours of direct sunlight or more. Compost or any other amendment should not be added to a planting hole. It was thought at one time that that practice was good for new plantings, but we know better now. Unless you are preparing an entire bed for new installations, leave the soil improvement stuff out of the hole. Rather, apply the compost to the top, as a mulch. Some kind of leaf mite? Trap? Please explain. Absolutely remove the fertilizer that is still piled up at the base of your tree. Instead, rake it out evenly over a wide area all around the location you imagine the root zone to be. And NEVER in clumps. Never at the base of a tree or shrub. Does the planting site drain well? What color is it? Is it easy to dig into or not? Finally, the single most common mistake that I see in regards to new plantings is that the hole is dug too deeply, and the root ball ends up covered up with inches of soil. Rather, the plant should sit ABOVE grade upon planting....how much depends upon the soil....See MoreMy 10 yrs old kaffir lime tree does not flower
Comments (25)Like animals, trees grown from seed must pass through several phases of development before they become sexually mature and capable of producing reproductive parts (blooms/ seeds/ fruit). The plant phases of seed - seedling - juvenile - sexually mature are roughly mirrored in human developmental stages of embryonic - infantile - juvenile - adult/ sexually mature. A freshly sprouted seedling is no more capable of producing reproductive parts (blooms/ seeds/ fruit) than an infant. Too, a plant's aging process is different than an animal's. Where animals age chronologically, plants age ontogenetically. Ontogenetic aging can be thought of in terms of how many cell divisions have occurred to move the plant to its current phase of development. One might reason that the most recent new growth would be the youngest part of the plant, but ontogenetically, it is the the oldest part of the plant because it has taken many more cell divisions to produce the newest parts. Ontogenetically, the youngest part of a tree grown from seed will always be the root to shoot transition area at the base of the trunk, no matter how old the tree is chronologically. Pruning a tree back hard can easily remove all existing mature growth and return it to a juvenile phase that would require a considerable amount of new growth before the wood again becomes mature. All factors that influence growth rate have an impact on how long (chronologically) it takes a plant to become sexually mature, so thinking that a change in nutrition alone will cause a plant to bloom is misguided. The fastest seedlings to mature within any given species will depend on how proficient Mother Nature or the plant's grower is at providing ideal cultural conditions. Ideal cultural conditions = most rapid growth rate and shortest period of time to reach maturity; this, simply because ideal conditions are most conducive to cell divisions and therefore a fruitful tree at a younger chronological age. It should be noted that applying nutrients or other products in willy nilly fashion with no knowledge of whether or not there is an actual deficiency of those nutrients or no good reason to apply them is highly likely to be limiting in terms of both growth and rate of maturation. Whenever we discuss what is or isn't an appropriate part of the methodology we use to make certain our plants get all the nutrients essential to growth and good health, we would probably first want to be sure our objectives are on target. It's difficult to argue with the idea that our focus in supplying supplemental nutrition to our plants should be on ensuring all the nutrients plants normally assimilate from the soil are A) IN the soil and available for uptake at all times, B) in the soil in a favorable ratio - that is to say in a ratio that mimics the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrient, C) at a concentration high enough to ensure no nutritional deficiencies, yet still low enough to ensure the plant's ability to take up water efficiently, and the nutrients dissolved in that water won't be impeded (by a high concentration of solubles in the soil solution). The part in bold is where growers often run afoul of sound husbandry. By adding unnecessary nutrients we A) skew the ratio of nutrients, each to the others, such that an excess of one nutrient causes a deficiency of one or more other nutrients, and B) make it more difficult for the plant to assimilate water and nutrients. So, for plants in containers, best results can be had by choosing 1 fertilizer with an appropriate nutrient ratio and all the nutrients essential to normal growth. Forget the snake oil products and claims made on product packaging by sellers whose only goal is separating you from your money. For plants in the landscape, a soil test is ESSENTIAL for any grower aiming at providing the best cultural conditions possible. "A little extra" is almost always going to be limiting rather than beneficial; otherwise, it wouldn't be "extra". Al...See Morepuglvr1
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