OK! Tomorrow I'll take photos of all of them. Let the fun begin, but we'll start with this one next to the Bearss (tag on, so we knew). That Bearss is so prolific! The buds on the mystery citrus have not opened, so the photos will only show buds. The little tree got a serious infestation of leaf miners, but we hit it with Bayer Merit today. Stay tuned. Photos to follow! Suzi

Oh No......... I am not in your area, but wanted to tell you how sorry I am that this has happened to you. I hope you are able to save most of your plants.

Hi NHBabs, I have an 8 year old lemon tree(believe it's a seedling or rootstock, never flowered/fruited), a couple 2 year old satsuma trees, and a small meyer lemon that I rescued from near death. None of them are dwarf, but citrus are relatively small and I keep them in check by pruning. My father also has a lime tree that regularly produces edible fruit. The excellent advice I got at the citrus forum here is what initially brought me to the pre-houzz garden web site. You should check out that forum because there are several other northern citrus growers, and a ton of folks from the natural range. If you're sure it's not a kumquat, you probably had a calamondin. It's similar to a small sour mandarine orange, though like kumquats the peel is supposedly sweet. Basic rules for growing citrus indoors based on my experiences: 1. They hate wet roots, fast draining mix is best. 511 mix or gritty mix does well for many. I just use a fast draining potting soil heavily amended with pine bark fines(actually reptile bedding from the pet store). 2. They like fertilizer. The best NPK ration for citrus is 9-3-6, Dyna-grow Foliage Pro is the go to recommendation but any fertilizer with a similar profile will work. Non-organic is best for potted. Since the potting mix drains quickly it's usually best to follow the fertilizer's instructions for feeding at every watering. 3. You don't have to baby them too much in the cold weather, I usually bring them in when the temp drops below 40F. However, they're generally fine down to 35F. Some varieties can go even lower but why risk it. My Satsumas have gone down to the upper 20's in a unheated porch with zero damage. 4. The transition from indoors to full sun needs to be done extremely gradually or they'll drop all their leaves. Meyers are notorious for this. I move them out to a fully shaded location for 2 weeks, gradually move them to semi shade over 2 weeks, only then do I put them in full sun but watch them for signs of sunburn or stress. The exact reverse process is used in the fall. You can experiment with a quicker schedule, but I once gave my lemon a sunburn and the growth was stunted for half of my short growing season. If you don't have much leaf cover, paint the trunk with a 50/50 mix of water and interior white paint to prevent death by sunburn. I know this all seems odd for a semi-tropical tree but it's true. 6. It takes an extremely long time for a seedling to flower/fruit, if ever in a northern pot. Always grow grafted trees unless you have absolutely no interest in getting flowers or fruit 5. Fruit is possible, especially for sour varieties. At the very least the leaves and flowers smell great. For varieties I'd suggest a lime tree or other sour varieties. Lemons tend to get very large and can be difficult to manage. Meyers aren't really pure lemons, they can do ok in pots but many people in the citrus forum have trouble keeping them alive. Calamondins, and kumquats seem to do well also. I wouldn't bother with grapefruit or oranges though you might do ok with mandarins/clementines. My satsumas(a mandarin) haven't flowered yet for me, but they got shocked pretty bad in transit when I ordered them. Good luck!!

Don't cut the branch off. The tree needs it. Clean the scale off the branch. After that spray the neem oil over the whole tree including the trunk and twig bark and underneath and on the top of each leaf. They will congregate along the leaf veins as well as the branch twigs.. Get in every crevice and crany with the sprays. Clean every twig and leaf individually if you can. It doesn't take that long on a smallish tree. You will need to do followup cleanings and sprays about every 7 days, or as soon as you see more scale or ants or a sticky honeydew on the tree's leaves (which the scale exudes) because you need to get all the eggs and the next generations as they hatch. They multiply very rapidly. Do not delay treatment. They are not easy to get rid of. Also look for ants as they farm the scale and move them around your tree and to other plants. Try to get rid of any ants. You can make a paper collar to go around the trunk and use sticky paper or something sticky to catch the ants as they try to climb up the trunk. Don't put the sticky stuff directly on the bark of the trunk as it will damage the bark. Use ant baits and traps to kill the ants. You might also try horticultural oil, fish emulsion, and the neem oil to smother them, and soap sprays and alcohol sprays or alcohol on cotton swab to kill them on contact and to help you clean the scale off. Rotate what you use so the scale doesn't build up a resistence to any one of the treatments. Some will smoother the eggs and adults, some will penetrate the outside shell on contact and kill them. People also use Bayer with imidicloprid sprays or drenches with good results, but I haven't had any long lasting results with that either. Someone mentioned Spinosad in one of the other threads. Good luck. I find them very hard to get rid of permanently. Some citrus seem to attract them more than others I find. Cory