I use wire stakes to tie down small branches. I cut really heavy wire about 2' long and bend a hook at the top. I push it as far into the ground as I can, then use cheap cotton string to tie it down. If there is a lot of pull on the string, I double it up so it won't break. Obviously I don't use a choker knot on the shoot, but tie a big loop. When I've had to tie down very large branches - 1.5", I've used T-posts, or pieces of pipe hammered in the ground to anchor the branch down. The top of the pipe is generally squished flat enough to keep the string from slipping off the top, but I have duct taped the string to the pipe before to keep it from slipping. I've also used dog stakes (the kind you twist in the ground) as anchors. I've not had much luck with weights. Invariably our strong winds will cause the weights to break the branches.

E, I sometimes get excessive bleeding, flooding the grafts. Don't know if grafting 'by the signs' would help, but I pretty much have to do 'em when I can steal a few minutes here and there to get out in the orchard. I've had old-timers recommend beheading the rootstock - and waiting 'til they stop bleeding before grafting - may take one day, or a week or more. Another technique which I use frequently - though I can't swear that it necessarily works any better - is the 'Sap-stopper modification of the Gray Graft'. Essentially, it's a simple bark graft - but instead of completely beheading the understock, you just cut about 3/4 of the way through and 'break over' the still-attached top, to act as a sap-drawer or 'relief-valve' of sorts. Did a couple this morning, but it's still a bit early on many of my seedlings - look at Dr. Reid's most recent post.

@jianhuayegreentree, I have uploaded a picture. Two cicles are the areas of two branches i grafted early spring but they did not survive finally. They are the only branches at that time. All other branches are the new growrh this year. I will try to graft again next year. preferably, i would like not to cut the main trunk but any other branches will be fine. i can choose the topmost two branches (two red lines) other than the main trunk to graft. do you think what the probability for them to survive? i am thinking it may be easier for scion to survive when tree become bigger because the growth vogor will reduce so the competition between scion and other growth may not be that strong. how big is your tree that you had grafted successfully? A picture of the tree and the growth condition of the survived brach would be very helpful. Thanks for the comments. @jianhuayegreentree.

I have a few apple trees over 50 years still producing good fruit. If the trees have not been pruned lately I think they are worth catching up with the excess growth. When your pear is in bloom collect blooms from several pear trees and put them in coffee cans of water tied up in your pear tree. This should determine if lack of pollination is your problem. Al