50/50 sphagnum peat/perlite or silica sand. You can also use LFS (long fiber sphagnum) by itself but IMO the roots will intertwine in it and make it harder to separate them if you ever do a complete media change which is recommended every 2-3 years due to mineral buildup. Yes you're going to have to use distilled or RO water if you don't save rain water. I now save water via a 55 gallon drum. It is possible to distill your tap water but hardly worth it. It will cost more in gas/electricity than just buying the water.

LOL! Deja vu! Anyhoo, those mini-terrariums are more cute and decoartive than they are useful. You have the right idea about putting them on the porch. VFT's do best when kept outside. They are real light lovers. but going from a cube to direct sun in one day would be too much for them. Keeping them on the porch, in "bright shade" (indirect light) for a week, for acclimation, is the way to go. They need air circulation, so the plastic cover needs to go. They need drainage, so they need to be repotted. Hold the contents upside down, over your hand, and coax the whole thing, plant and soil to come out as one unit and place in a bigger, drained pot. Fill in with LFS, which is long fribre sphagnum, which can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot. Sit the pot in a plastic container of water. Below is an pictoral illustration. Pretend that these are VFT's.

The main reason people usually dont buy vfts from local nurseriesis most places dont know how to take care of them. they order them in bulk, and sell them on the shelf usully with the houseplants which is not the correct place. BASIC CARE SHEET 1. VFTS require a dormancy period 2. they must be watered with distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water and be kept moist at all times. 3. they thrive best in full sun 4. humidity is'nt that important mine are growing outside and temps are getting in lower 50sF of course mine have been outside all year round. 5. vfts basic soil mix is 50peat:50perlite mix Sorry if you already knew this. since temps are getting low in your area you depending on the health of your plant you should get ready for dormancy. once the first frost hits your plant it should trigger this dormancy period and die back, bulb still intact, only if its healthy enough if you've had it inside you might want to skip dormancy this year just because im not sure if your plant will have enough time to acclimate to outdoor temp and be pushed into dormancy, but dont get the impression the plants will be able to skip dormancy every year the plant will only be healthiest if it experiences its dormancy period. To tell if your plant is healthy if it has witnessed 50F temps it should be slowing down growth and the main way to tell if your plant is healthy is to check its bulb and make sure its cream-white in color. im not exactly sure on how to go with your plant dormancy, hopefully a fellow forum member can help you with this, so to other members who read this. If the plant is healthy, should it be put outside to acclimate? hope this helps, id assume it would be but i dont know the health of the plant.

I would suggest either putting it in the fridge where temperatures are cooler, or just setting it outdoors if temperatures reach the 40-50F temperature range because venus fly traps and some other carnivorous plants need a dormancy cycle in order to thrive and put out more traps. I think the chilling requirement is 8 weeks for VFTs, but you should check the internet to find out. I'm in a cool climate so I put mine under tarps where they get near 20 weeks of chilling hours, but they need the rest at this time of the year in order to restore their growth hormones required for further production. Here is a link that might be useful: