The above statement is just wrong, fungus gnats do cause harm. If there is root damage they will eat the rotting flesh much like any maggot. I don't know how many times I've had to completely remove a plant and wash it in a bleach solution to kill the little buggers because they have gotten into a small cut in the stem of a plant or root tips. First off do not use any organic stuff like peat, second use lots of chunky stuff like pumice or perlite, and pot it in a clay pot which is just large enough to take the root ball, no bigger. Do not let it sit in water ever. Invest in wooden bbq skewers. Use one to go into the soil about three inches, if it comes back wet or with soil on it, give it a couple of days before watering again. You can also tell by the color of the clay pot, if it's darker, it doesn't need water, if it lightens up and the soil is dry, water. Top dressing will be the death of your plant especially if you don't know the ups and downs of watering yet. It should only be used if you plan on showing your plant, or you really know what you're doing water wise. I'll tell you why, top dressing is used to keep the soil from caking, but also to retain moisture in the soil. Unless you live in a really dry hot area, I would not advise it for a Dief.

kimmsr, Disagree with you, simply based on experience. I used to have lots of grubs in my very moist compost before using BT. Rarely see a grub of any kind anymore, using the same methods/materials with the addition of BT. http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/pathogens/bacteria.html States: Primary hosts: caterpillars; some BEETLE and fly larvae. Also states: "Over 90 species of naturally occurring, insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria have been isolated from insects, plants, and the soil, but only a few have been studied intensively". So I give credit to BT. I put some good soil in my new compost piles, which has had applications of all commercial BT strains, so I can't say which one (if any) are at work against grubs. Doesn't matter to me. So I give credit to BT, et al. - and don't have names for the other 86 or so insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria spoken of, OR other such non-specific bacteria that may not have been identified yet. http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2500.html : 'Grubs' is a 'generic' term, used for larvae of a large group of beetles called SCARABS. The most important species are: Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica Newman; May or June beetles, Phyllophaga spp.; northern and southern masked chafers, Cyclocephala spp.; and black turfgrass ataenius, Ataenius spretulus (Haldeman). Other, more localized, white grub pests are: European chafer, Rhizotrogus majalis (Razoumowsky); the Asiatic garden beetle, Maladera castanea (Arrow); and the green June beetle, Cotinis nitida (Linnaeus). Option 4: Biological Control - Milky Diseases - Several strains of the bacterium, Bacillus popilliae (bacterium is extracted from Japanese beetle grubs and is most active against this species), have been found that attack white grubs...Unfortunately, recent studies in Kentucky and Ohio indicate that the currently available products have NOT PERFORMED WELL IN OUR SOILS. (caps are mine). Goes on to say that parasitic nematodes are a up to 80% effective, but "...do not appear to be effective from one season to the next". So you can take exception with me if you want to - your opinion is just as valid as mine - but now let's hear from YOU about your EXPERIENCE with grubs... Robert

I also read it in the Texas Agricu. article, they say about the same thing, I thought I was passing on good information, I tried it when I saw 2 fungua gnats in my greenhouse. I will also post their article(who knew it was so eazy to grow potatoes) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UC-028 FUNGUS GNAT MANAGEMENT Bastiaan M. Drees Professor and Extension Entomologist The Texas Agricultural Extension Service Texas A&M University System -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The term, fungus gnat, applies to a number of species in the insect order Diptera, family Sciaridae (dark winged fungus gnat species Bradysia coprophila, impatiens and paupera). Fungus gnat adults are a nuisance to greenhouse operators, interiorscapers as well as consumers. The larval stages can damage healthy roots, stunting or killing young plants even where there is no fungal food source (Lindquist 1994). Prolonged infestations may cause stunted, off-colored plants or foliage (Cole 1985). Damage may actually be more severe to young plants when the potting media or soil has been sterilized. Fungus gnat larvae may also aid in the introduction and spread of plant diseases such as Pythium, Verticillium, Cylindrocladium, Scelerotinia and Theila-viopsis. Description. Adult fungus gnats are small (1/8 inch long), fragile grayish to black flies with long, slender legs and thread-like antennae. Their wings are clear or smokey-colored with no pattern and few distinct veins. Larvae are clear to creamy-white and can grow to about 1/4 inch long. They have shiny black head capsules (Fig. 1). Biology. Fungus gnats develop through complete metamorphosis: egg; larva; pupa; and adult. Development occurs in 2 to 4 weeks. Larvae feed primarily on fungi, decaying organic matter and plant roots, particularly in very moist enviro nments. Larval and pupal stages can also, however, survive periods of drought. Fungus gnats normally follow a predictable cycle of population development: The first two generations are the largest, followed by a leveling off or decline in numbers. Continuous production (ie. adding new plants in fresh growing media) may keep fungus gnat numbers high, because the insects will keep moving to the potting mix containing the fresh media (Lindquist 1994). Monitoring methods. Yellow sticky cards and potato pieces placed on potting media are good methods for monitoring adult and larval populations, respectively. Yellow stick cards are most effective when place horizontally on the potting media surface, although vertically positioned cards hung over the crop canopy are also effective and trap more of other types of insect pests as well. Cards placed under the benches, close to intake vents, near doorways and outside the greenhouse can provide additional information to detect breeding areas. Continuous monitoring (weekly) can provide the following information: 1) first detection of low populations; 2) population density increases or decreases over time; 3) the level and length of suppression resulting from the implementation of suppression tactics. Potato slices (roughly 1 by 1 by 1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces) placed on the surface of potting media are attractive to larval stages of fungus gnats. The potato slices should be left in place for about 4 hours before counting the number of larvae on and under the slices (Lindquist 1994). Results of this monitoring effort can be used to: 1) detect areas where larvae are developing; and 2) document the reduction of larval population densities after the implementation of suppression tactics by comparing results from before ant after treatment. Management. There are no "economic threshold levels" established for managing this pest (Lindquist 1994). Thus, the decision to suppress populations is largely subjective, although regulatory or marketing forces may play an important role in the decision-making process.Fungus gnat control can be an important part of managing some plant diseases. Integrated pest management of fungus gnats is best when a combination of non-chemical (cultural) methods are used with biological and/or chemical methods. Table 1 provides an inventory of considerations and options which can be incorporated into a fungus gnat management program. Cultural methods are largely preventive and must be maintained throughout the production cycle. Biological methods must be implemented early, when fungus gnat population levels are still low. Insect growth regulator products applied to the potting media are more compatible with biological control. However, once a severe problem has developed, an insecticide program using a combination of treatments for adult as well as larvae fungus gnat control may be necessary. Literature cited Cole, C. L. 1985. Fungus Gnats, L-2041. Texas Agricultural Extension Service, Texas A&M University System, College Station, Texas. Drees, B. M. 1992. Pest Management Alternatives for Commercial Orna-mental Plants. Texas Association of Nurserymen. Austin, Texas. 140 pp. Lindquist, R. K. 1994. Integrated man- agement of

Those are little babies. My most prolific Venuse fly trap is one that came in a kit from Walmart. It has made dozens of divisions over the many years that I have had it. The pitcher plant and venus fly trap need sunshine, rain water or bottled pure water not tap water and a dormant time to rest in the winter. If you do not have hard freezes, they can stay outdoors all winter. The potting soil that works best for me is a half peat/half perlite mix that I get very soggy with rain water. The venus fly traps i put in a pot with a drain hole and then place in a bowl with water up to half way up the pot. The pitcher plant can have water higher. It is fun to have the carniverous plants close by to watch them. I give a lot of carniverous plants away to kids, but only after they can pass a test for caring for them. I hope that your plants are still alive.