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karewren

Amending soil - Part II (Meadow garden)

karewren
17 years ago

Thank you everyone for helping me with my Meadow garden. I must say - just getting your feedback was enough to get beyond the overwhelmedness of the project and get back to work. I'd like to include the before and after pics to show you more clearly where I'm at, but sadly I can't figure out how to insert into this text box...

So I'll try to describe it best I can: I finished planting my poppies, seeds, and goldenrod. I did not touch the dirt/rocks elsewhere (no "scratching in" of amendments). Then I soaked what newprint I had around the house (only about a four or five page thicknesses over the entire area) and laid it out over the slope. I did read up on both the topics of Lasagna gardening and mulching on a slope; and really just put the newspaper down to a) mark my territory (I'm only doing 1/3 of the slope this year) and b) to subconsciously assuage my desire to "create" happy, nutritious soil underneath. That took me until dark, so by morning I had to rewet it again. Then I sprinkled peat moss over the wet newpaper. Lasagna gardens suggest 2-3 inches of peatmoss. I didn't even get a millimetre of it on there. Basically, it was just enough to make the slope look brown again. I continually misted the peatmoss to get it moist but not enough to create any streams 'a flowin. Then I gingerly sprinkled on "composted cedar bark mulch" - it smells amazing!!. (I took back the large pine bark nuggets, as BP suggested.)

Yes, I do live near Halifax, across the pond actually in Dartmouth. And I found the mulch for $2.99 a 12 cu ft bag (which seemed like an incredibly good price to me, considering what I had paid previously for my black mulch elsewhere).

However, at this point I'm starting to get a little nervous again.... As you would be able to see in the non-existent pics, there are a few spots near the top of the slope where the grade is pretty much completely vertical. I tried pressing the mulch into the near vertical grades, but can only imagine what it will look like by Wednesday (the forecast is calling for rain). In my reading on mulching slopes one guy suggested having put burlap down first. But unfortunately I read that after the fact, and besides, I was trying to spend as little extra money on this project as possible.

At this point, I don't plan on doing any more planting this year. Next spring I will throw down my wild flower seeds (do I simply toss them ontop of the mulch or do I move the mulch aside and scratch them into the dirt?) and I will build a "terrace" for a lovely Japanese Maple (yes, from what I read, they do have fairly shallow roots - is that a good or bad thing for my rocky "retaining wall" slope?) And next year, once things have settled nicely in place I will add either some "stepping" places (although, it's not too bad naturally) or maybe a nice rustic looking feeder.

So far I only have about an inch of mulch down. I will continue that process for a couple more inches. But how do I get it to stick to the vertical areas and what happens in the rain? I mean, I do see mulched slopes all over the city (drive along Mt. Edward road, for example... well, the whole city is built on a slope for that matter); so I know it's possible. But do I have to cover it for a season until it compresses into place or what?

And while I'm at it.... the reason I bought the peat moss in the first place four months ago was because I was describing my swamp of a lawn to the lady at the garden centre and she said to add some peat moss to my lawn. So I bought it and did some research about soil improvement and it explained that PM helps with moisture retention. Well, if my problem is that my lawn is too wet, why would I want to add an ingredient that will help with water retention? And given the 45 degree angle that my yard is sloped at in the first place, why on earth do I have a wet lawn at all (law of gravity, what goes up must come down????)

Finally, any suggestion (aesthetics or technical) on how to finish off the slope.... the sharp grade at the bottom that comes down to meet the lawn (which currently is either bare or has tufts of horse grass and weeds on it) and the very top that meets my neighbour's fence that is also very sharp of a grade and is also either bare or has tufts of grass and weeds growing out of it. I was afraid to pull out some of the most resistant vining roots up there for fear the whole hill would avalanche. Can I spray the inbedded root with some kind of weed killer or will that adversely affect the flowers I planted.

Thank you again for your help. It is so great that people are willing to share their own experience, triumphs, and trials to us beginners!!! Karen

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