Sounds like it may need time to adjust from the repotting. Messing with the roots. Wind and heat sounds like your tree is just stressed from this big change. Keep it in the shade for a few weeks and then acclimate it to the heat and Sun In your area. Keep up with watering if it is in a fast draining mix. Keep it from the wind as well. This will cause it to dry out . Sounds like it is just stressed. Keep in sheltered in a semi shaded area and I'm sure it will perk back up for you. Remember to stake until the branches can hold their own weight. This will prevent any loss and or damage of your branches. I would also stake it so the root ball won't move around in the container. ( keep it from moving In the wind until the roots can grow and it can get acclimated to its new container) Good luck!!! Laura This post was edited by loveplants2 on Wed, Jan 22, 14 at 0:09

If you're not planting them out soon - and at your zone, I assume you are not - I think you want to pot them up. They look like they have grown out of their starting cells. I think you will see improvement when they are in larger containers.

I'm assuming you're asking about the Costus Barbatus(spiral ginger). I have grown this plant for 15 years and when they begin to look like yours, it usually a combination of not enough water and too much sun/heat. Mine begin to look like this in late July when the temperatures get in the middle to upper 90's. How many hours of sun are they receiving? That costus does a lot better with some protection from direct noon sun. Steve

First, let's start with the same suggestion that virtually every new poster to GW will engender - include your location and/or climate zone with every post OR change your profile to reflect it. You will get much faster and more complete answers that are appropriate to your specific location, if we know what it is. Second, with any plantings, you can't water to a specific schedule. The frequency of the need to water is dependent on soil conditions, siting and weather. When you do water you want to water thoroughly, so the water can percolate down through the soil profile the full depth of the rootball. Third, the hydrangeas appear to be planted in amongst a bunch of weeds or weedy grass. Why are they not in clear planting beds? Lawns, weed grasses and weeds can easily outcompete young, newly planted plants for both soil moisture and nutrients, delaying proper establishment. A defined, clear planting area surrounding the plants (or a single planting bed that contains them all) that is kept free of weeds and grass is preferred. And this should be mulched, both to keep any weeds down and to insulate the soil and prevent evaporation. The leaves of the plants don't look too bad - a little off color and a few showing scorched tips - but overall they look as though the plants are receiving adequate water. The browned or withered flowers are just flowers that have passed their prime. They can be removed to improve the plants' appearance. Depending on the type of hydrangeas they are (another useful piece of info we lack), they may not produce any more flowers this season. Hydrangea macrophyllas that bloom on old wood (the vast majority of them) create flower buds in late summer or fall of the previous year. Once those buds have bloomed, that's it for the year. Reblooming macs (those that bloom on both old and new growth) can generate additional flower buds in season but young, new plants like these are not so much inclined to do so until fully established. The offcolor of the foliage and the faded flowers could indicate these plants are receiving a bit more sun than they'd prefer. This is not a deal breaker but something to be aware of and to work to offset. Or you could relocate these plants in fall to a shadier location (morning sun only) and plant more sun tolerant panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata cultivars) in their place.