When you moved your cal from inside to outside you should have acclimated it first. First put it in the shade for a couple of days and gradually pu t in the sun a little more each day. 1 to 2 weeks are preferred. Yes on all of th above maybe. It could be a tempt issue if it was not growing. All roots activity stopped at 55.4 *F tempt. Stay on the dry side. Once water.

I was given some that were in a family since he came north in the WWII. The family has planted them all over Tucson. I planted several 15-20 in a 18 gallon tub. I cut them back about 1st of December. I now have blossoms on them. I was told that it takes abou 200 days for them to grow and turn red. I pick them after they turn red. I have picked them late when they wer wrinked up and it did not seem to make a differance. You do need to dry them. I use a paper plate on top of the freezer and then grind them up by mortor (sp) and pestal which releases the oil in the seeds. I do have one that I did not cut back in another tub and it looks like a small tree with flower buds just starting. I plan to put it on the south side of the house as I was told if they are kept from freezing they will produce year round. These would be the Sonoran strain.

Well, I am definatley not more experienced than you are but I do have a question regarding stem on stem. When exhibiting sprays, when does it stop being a spray, and become just anouther lateral branch? In other words, if you exhibit a spray, either HT or Mini that has many stems, when does a stem stop being a stem and become another branch, but when looking at it, it sure looks to be part of the spray????? Not sure if that makes sense, but I have seen some sprays at several shows DQ because of the stem branch issue. Thanks/John

I thought the same thing back when I got 'Indigo' as a band -- and my attempts at separating them before repotting resulted in breaking them. I tucked them back together as best I could, and kept my fingers crossed. But they ended up dying. OK, so if I was to do this again, here's what I'd do. First, carefully remove the band from the liner. Then get a bucket and almost fill it with water. Put the band in the bucket, and swish it around to loosen as much of the soil from the roots as possible. Then, take a look at the roots -- is it really more than one rooted plant? It's possible that a branched stem was chosen for rooting, and what you see above does not show how they're connected below. OK, put it back underwater, and try gently pulling them apart, shaking them a little as you go to continue removing the potting soil. If you end up separating them, keep them in the water while you get their new pots ready. After potting them, soak them in water for an hour or so, and set them out. Another option is to pot them up together and watch to see which one takes off the most quickly. When that one becomes apparent, cut the others back to the soil level. Finally, you could also just leave it alone, and pot it up as if it was one plant. I've often wondered what's going on below the soil line in my garden, considering how deeply I planted the roses. They were planted at "normal" depth into the native soil, and then I added 6-8" of mulch, composted manure, and repeated applications of used coffee grounds and tree leaves to maintain that depth. The result is that the roses have generated roots along the buried parts of their canes, and in many cases, it's as though I have multiples planted in a clump. If something happens below the soil to one of those buried canes which results in it being separated from the rest, I'll have what you have in your band. Considering that some roses sucker, I don't think it's much of an issue having such a clump -- as long as its the same variety. In that case, any that don't make it would appear as nothing more than a dead cane or two to be removed when necessary. :-) ~Christopher