You are already seeing that there is a rhythm to our weather. The trick is to plant the vegetables that will grow during each weather pattern. Here in central MS (our climate is very similar. My daughter lives in DFW), it goes kind of like this: In late March or early April (right after last frost date), plant the stuff that will heat check in mid summer: snap beans and tomatoes; and the long season heat lovers: butterbeans, peppers, and eggplants. And the short season heat lovers that will yield their space to something else in mid summer: cucumbers, summer squash, (Vine Borers make them a short season veg most years), and corn. As the snap beans and corn finish up (late June to early July), plant cowpeas, winter squash, and okra (this could have been planted earlier too). I also pull out cucumbers at this time and replant them, picklers this time. All of these thrive on the worst heat of summer. (with ample water). Oh, if you want a second crop of tomatoes, start your seeds by mid June. I usually leave the tomatoes in the ground through the worst of the heat, IF the plants look good. When it cools down in late summer, they will commence bearing again. If they look bad, I pull them out, add compost and fertilizer and plant fresh plants (no later than mid July) which will bear till frost. In mid July, I start seeds for collards, broccoli, caulifower, and cabbage in a place that has dappled shade. In late July, you can plant fresh snap beans. I like poles best for their flavor, and I think they do better in our heat too. In early to mid September, you can direct sow kale, mustard, and asian greens. In late September or early October, plant onions, carrots, lettuce, garlic, spinach, and set out your plants you started in July. I grow all my cool season plants under mulch and row covers, using my tomato cages as hoops. With the row covers, all these plants typically make it through the entire winter and we eat from them regularly throughout. There is an added bonus of growing this way. If you pick your greens, or cut the entire plant (do NOT pull them up by the roots) to harvest, there will be virtually no grit in them. The mulch and row covers keep dirt from splashing up on the leaves. It saves untold hours of cleaning greens inside. In February, I plant sugar snap peas. Some years, I get a harvest, and some years it gets hot too soon and I don't. On those years, I just plow the plants under the soil and figure their nitrogen fixing roots are a bonus to the soil.

it's time to start planting everything it's just like the begining of febuary right now except with the warm soil everything gets going in a hurry i pulled out all the old cukes and patty pans and planted pumpkins and zukes a couple weeks ago nursed all my tomatoes and peppers through the brutal heat and i'm now in the process of pruning back all the dead foliage for a new fall crop and the hotter i gets the better my okra does ....... btw my chili plants are now 2 years old and still going strong

Lettuce you can do now. Basil and green bean seeds: sow in April. I'd just buy tomato starts...the variety available now is so amazing, why bother with seeds yourself unless you're growing 50 plants or something. After this season, in November sow a cover crop like vetch or rye or clover in your vacant wine barrels and vacant beds. Then you can cut them down in March and let them decompose for a month in your wine barrels or beds before April or May's new planting. Improves your soil the easy and cheap way. You can always amend the old soil though if you want to before you plant. Another veggie to grow over Winter for Spring fruit is fava beans (sow in November). Fava beans are also a decent cover crop as the roots add nitrogen to the soil. Not everyone likes the fava bean as preparation for cooking is somewhat demanding, but there are some mighty tasty recipes out there. And production is usually outstanding. Pretty plants as well. That's some but not all I know.

First off I want to say WOW! Nice setup and good luck! I think the mixing of nutrients can be debatable. The reason I say this is the soil is pretty rich as is, with the organic mix and top soil. I would say, and I am no pro in soil so maybe you will want to cross post to another forum for backup, but I would say a general nutrient mixture would be good. The problem that I foresee is nutrient burn. Your soil is already pretty rich and if too strong of a nutrient is pushed through the system you could burn the roots, as I am sure you have knowledge in. I would say it might be beneficial to have two batches mixed up and running. The reason I say this is that tomatoes, lettuce, and select other crops are ridiculous when it comes to sucking up nitrogen from the soil. So you might want a high Nitrogen mix and a medium nitrogen mix for strawberries). Also, if I may inquire: What is your pair planting (i.e. what did you plant with what)? Are you planning on constantly flushing the nutrients container? Are you running your drip on a timer? If so what are you looking at for feeding schedule? What type of soil are your boxes above? I grew broccoli in pure hydro and strawberries so I can help out that way. I lived in farm country and got a lot of tips from organic growers as well.