Your question is complex. In general the seeds from seedless watermelons are not going to work well. Seedless watermelon seeds can be purchased. They are Triploid. Three sets of genes. Basically difficult to grow. But it can be done. When growing you need regular pollen from a normal watermelon to fertilize the seedless variety. They try to form seeds but they mix a triploid with a diploid. Because of this the seeds do not form. Well mostly they do not form. Also the melon around the seed stays firm. Which is good. So you saved some seeds of this triploid diploid mix. What will you get. Who knows. usually nothing because they will try to form seeds that will most likely not grow or form. But with luck who knows what you have and what you will get. It is a long shot. but you might get something. If you get some triploid pollen onto a triploid female you might wind up with seedless triploid watermelon seeds. But it is not suppose to work. Everything is suppose to die. The easy way is to buy known seeds. The experts purposely cross diploids with tetraploids to make triploids. Two triploids are not suppose to work. It is a mess with lots of sterility and death. Part of your problem is that the seeds you have were generated only HALF from Seedless watermelon. The other half of those seeds is regular diploid watermelon seeds. So you dont really have seedless watermelon seeds. You only have half of your seeds come from seedless watermelon genetics. the other half of the seed comes from unknown regular watermelon seeds used to pollenate the seedless plants. I would not bother growing the plants from seedless watermelons. Unless you have lots of acres of land to experiment with.

This is so weird now it is out of control. I put 2-3 tiny water lettuce from the main pond (with fish) to the little pond that I completely drained and scrubbed out this spring. There are no rocks or any places to hide, it's small, and I got everything out of it before I filled it. So last night I'm out with my flashlight to check the tadpole I put in there (who is fine BTW thanks, sprouting little legs too) and as I see the tadpole swim under some water lettuce for cover out swims another fish! He looks like the poor little fellow I found that morning, just maybe a little smaller. A bird may cough up one dead fish but not two and not still alive! I'm wondering what killed the other guy I saw. I don't tend that pond much beyond topping off the water (with treated water) and pumping air into it, the filter & pump never really filtered out anything just kept some water flowing down the rock cascade. I did treat the water with PraziPro (as I'm treating my pond and indoor tank too) on Saturday but that is supposed to be very safe stuff. Huh! jalal: Thanks for the compliment! I'll see if I can find out a name for the grass. We got it from a friend who was chopping huge pieces out of his garden. It will grow without bounds over the years. Very hardy and comes back like clockwork every spring. I even have one clump 2 years now growing only so-so but it isn't planted! The root ball is just sitting on the ground. sleeplessinftwayne: That's a funny story. I'd love to see the fish jump from pond to pond or tank to tank. I wonder how they know which way to jump?

Suspect teasing the roots apart is the initial problem for that four-in-one rose & your potting recipe, method & pots themselves poor choices. Am I understanding correctly that these all came from greenhouse conditions? If so, would have been a good idea to gradually transition them to outdoor realities to help them adapt before considering repotting or messing with them in any way, pretty much a rule of thumb for all plants newly coming out of greenhouse controlled environments. After successfully transitioning them to outdoor conditions, let them grow on in peace until they show additional growth without problems, indicating they've adapted & stabilized. At that point, you can work with them and their needs toward your goals. If you plan to add them to other plants in a mixed pot, you can do that then. Otherwise, no need to repot to a larger size unless & until their roots have filled & are beginning to crowd their original pot. You can slip their pot into a more decorative one for looks. For future reference - if you prefer the lush full pot look the multiples were intended to provide, leave them be & treat as one plant. If you want to transplant the individuals in the multiple pot, wait at least until they've transitioned & stabilized as above to do so, and disturb the roots as little as possible in the process. Here's one method that works for me. Prepare by watering well a few hours or the night before dividing. You want the soil moist but not soggy, able to hold together without falling apart or crumbling. Set yourself up in the shade with your new pots & potting mix at hand. Using a sharp knife long enough to cut through the soil in a smooth motion without sawing, cut an x in two strokes across the pot leaving each plant centered in its section, as if cutting a cake into four equal pieces. Slide the knife down around the inside of the pot as if you were loosening a cake from its pan. Remove (I actually use a pie/cake server to do this) & pot each slice & water gently but thoroughly to settle them in. If the new soil sinks down below the slice's outline, top it up & water again until it's even. If they're sun or part sun plants, keep them in the shade for a few days to reduce any stress of dividing. Have done this successfully with mini roses several times, as well as other types of plants, but only tried when the stems were spaced in the original pot far enough apart to allow this, not when crowded together in the center. Agree with other sound advice about immediate remedial repotting, potting mix, shade, frequent fine misting & not fertilizing new plants or transplants for reasons given. See no point for a sand layer below the soil or the mulch at the bottom, and imagine the mulch will absorb water & rot to the detriment of the plant. Which brings me to the pot itself. Looks like terracotta clay, whether glazed outside or wet can't tell. Terracotta absorbs a lot of water & can leave plants thirsty as well as wicking moisture from the soil. It has its advantages as well, but wouldn't recommend them for new gardeners. When using them with plants that need even moisture, they need to be initially soaked in a pail or sink of water until bubbles stop rising & then some to fully saturate them. After planting, you need to water the pot & the soil each time you water. You can tell when the soil & pot need to be watered again by rapping your knuckles against the side of the pot. A hollow sound like a ripe watermelon indicates excessive dryness & a dull rap signals adequate moisture. Water slowly till the surface below the pot is wet, then come back & water again a few minutes later. Once for the pot & twice for the plant. Another learning curve best left for another day. Use them for slip pots if you will, leaving room between your actual pot & the sides of the terracotta to prevent possible heat transfer. No one to ask & no idea what questions were appropriate when I began gardening, then-timid me checked out a lot of library books on cultivation each time a new step was contemplated (very pre-internet). Advice was often contradictory from one author to the next. Muddled through, finding what succeeded, following the reasoning behind each treatment & remedy & building confidence. Believe most gardeners have managed to unintentionally lose a lot of plants along the way - know I have! - as well as learning from goof-ups & salvaging a good many struggling ones back to health. Welcome to the ongoing journey of always-more-to-learn that makes gardening so fascinating & so rewarding! This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 0:29

Yea, be REAL careful with the fuzzy one... old man cacti will rot even if they are breathed on too heavily. In the summer water scarcely, don't water at all in the winter. Make sure that the soil your using drains well; any water left to linger will quickly produce rot. Cephalocereus are the epitome of xeric plantlife. In fact all 4 of the pictured cacti are prone to rot. Water scarcely.