Alan, it's long been established that top pruning before digging and transplanting is very counter productive for the plant. It 'sounds' like it makes sense (cut the roots:cut the top to compensate), but plant physiology doesn't back it up. You see, there is only one source of energy for making new roots...actually many sources and they are the leaves. Leaves and only the leaves are what create, through the process of photosynthesis, the carbon resources (energy)required to grow. If you prune off a bunch of the top growth, then the energy production is diminished enormously. Not only that, but the plant will be induced to expend unnecessary energy on the making of new leaves instead of new roots! Located in all of those branch ends (the growing tips) are hormones that dictate to a plant where to initiate new growth. By leaving those tips uncut, the plant is able to devote energy to root production. If you cut back the top, those hormonal pathways will be rerouted to shoot (above ground) development. Even though we can't see the regeneration of new roots, it happens very rapidly and very aggressively, as long as we have followed other proper planting specifications. If you've simply cut here and there, perhaps to remove broken branches and such, that's fine. You've done your homework. By the way, the use of pruning paint has been discarded as good horticultural/arboricultural practice for practically a generation! To add to the problems that your specific plant had is that its root system was ripped from the soil system, rather than being cut cleanly. Big problem. It's size makes it a more difficult transplant, too. There are several 'rule-of-thumb' measurements to go by regarding the size of the root ball required. One that I usually use is simple to remember: for every one inch of trunk DIAMETER (not circumference), you'll need twelve inches of root ball diameter. Take the trunk measurement about 4 inches above the soil level, which will typically be a wide part of the trunk. So, if the trunk of your camellia was, say, three inches across, then you'd want to dig a root ball that was around 36 inches across. The height of the plant makes no difference.

Hi Ginny, What kind of yellow are we talking here-- a golden tint? completely lemon yellow? yellow with green veins? With a better description or picture, it would be easier to diagnose the problem, if there is one (shich it seems there may be). A couple things that I can think of that would make the new leaves more yellow colored would be either a nutrient deficiency, or sometimes if Camellias are planted in high light situations (they usu.prefer partial or full shade) their leaves will turn a yellowy, or bronze-ish color. How are the lower leaves? Lunaflora

Very good advice. I don't know what the restrictions are, but you can certainly use collected shower water to hand-water your plants with on an individual basis. I can't imagine what you must have paid for a 6 foot camellia (a BUNCH), so going the extra mile is important. Larger plants take much longer to establish into the surrounding soil, so I expect that the major part of the root system is still contained within the original root mass, especially since you've been under water restriction. Is it that you are not allowed to run wasteful irrigation systems or what are the stipulations of your restriction?

You should go to the building department after you talk to a qualified licensed landscape contractor he could give you some specific violations if any and suggest solutions like some fast-growing bamboo or something to block the lights. The cost of growth sometimes is painful, try and embrace it maybe the new owner will want to share in the bounty of the citrus?, also they are entitled to do as they want on their property as you are. That rule is violating them by where your citrus trees were planted.