'Kanjiro' width observations

14 years ago

Hi. I'm interested in buying a narrow, fall-flowering camellia in any color other than white. The garden centers in this area don't have any in-stock and do not know if they will have any later this summer. One of the garden centers is willing to do a special order for me, but (supposedly) can only find a Kanjiro. They are insisting that Kanjiros grow to less than 5' wide. My research so far has indicated otherwise. Does anybody have real-world knowledge of Kanjiro's actual mature width?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

luis_pr
14 years ago
Kanjiro is an upright spreading camellia. After 10 years in your garden (the commercial definition of the term maturity), it may be 8' tall here because our growing season is longer than yours. But camellias live hundreds of years so regardless whether it gets to be 5' or 8', Kanjiro will not stop growing at 10 years of age. You will have to prune to maintain its height.

Camellia season is winding down so I am not surprised you are having a hard time. Once you decide on a variety, mail order may be the way to go if special ordering is difficult. A spreading camellia like Shishi Gashira may be worth considering.
okintos
14 years ago
I fully agree with Luis. Your comment is very correct. "Growing vigorously to a tall, bushy shape form, it makes an excellent garden subject, whether as a specimen tree or hedge" (Stirling Macoboy). A camellia sasanqua, reaching five meters in width, it will take many years. You may never get to see him. Camellia sasanqua can be cut very well and maintain the shape you want, ("Kanjiro" belongs to the sub-species hiemalis), In the attached link is a picture and some comments on "Kanjiro."
Regards
Daniel D.F. oKintos

Here is a link that might be useful: Camellia X hiemalis
Related Discussions
problems with jean may
Q
Comments (2)
If the camellia leaves are burning easily then you need to either (a) figure out a way to provide some shade in the afternoon (specially suring summer) or (b) transplant the camellias to another location. Kanjiro has an upright growth habit so you might be able to keep it around 4 or 5' (height and width). Three feet is doable at first when it is young but after 10-20 years it may be difficult to keep it that small.
...See More
Figtrees.net Rooted Trees Pic Observation and Question
Q
Comments (20)
I have used fig air-layering for: (a) A "quickie" propagation (of any regular fig) for some friend; if done in early/mid spring, success should take ~3+ weeks. Still a labor intensive job! (b) Known-very-hard-to-root fig specimens. (c) Precious young/small fig specimens - usually GREEN tips. Success may take up to 2x the time (3-6 wk). One very particular weird case took me ~3 months (Martin knows exactly what I mean!). In all above cases, my main objective was to re-produce a SMALL fig offspring and I usually cut the rooted wood as soon I see good viable roots. Air layering can also be done for reproducing LARGE offsprings. I have never done that. However, I presume that the leaf/root ratio should be more carefully considered before 'cutting' the twig/branch off. BTW, the traditional fig twig CUTTING rooting methods are my most efficient way to re-produce figs. George (NJ).
...See More
Some questions about real width of door and rough opening
Q
Comments (5)
Generally speaking, a 30" door is 30" wide. I don't think that there is such a thing as a real dimension compared to a nominal dimension size, and there may be some slight variations between manufacturers in the width of a particular door size. In addition, it is common practice to bevel the latch edge of the door by about 1/8" so that it fits well when closing; therefore, there may be that much difference between the width on one side compared to the other. The jamb width is about 1-1/2"-2" greater than the door, depending on several things, including the thickness of the jamb. Also, the header often extends 1/4" on either side past the width of the side jamb pieces. There is usually plenty of room for adjustment, if you know what you are doing. However, in general, I think you are dealing with minor variations, and the most important thing you can do is actually buy your materials and confirm the exact measurements.
...See More
Settle a debate over hood width
Q
Comments (18)
As the OP I have a few things to say. Yes, I asked for help but had I known that by doing so I was putting my kitchen up to a "tribal council" decision, then I wouldn't have. Perhaps I should have worded my inquiry differently, such as "Does anyone have experience with a 36" inch island hood over a 36" range?" I apologize if anyone somehow felt affronted by me not taking your advice after you put in the time and effort to offer me your opinion. To be clear, I wanted to go with a 42" hood over my 36" BlueStar. My wife and interior designer however, were also concerned about limited storage space given the constraints inherent to the overall floor plan of the house. I originally posted on here to give me ammunition for my argument for the larger hood. But after reading mojavean's post it got me thinking. I realized that I do the majority of my cooking on two burners plus one for simmering. If I reconfigured the 36" range so that the burners I'm likely to use the most (22k btu) are directly under the middle of the hood, it actually would be BETTER under a 36" hood, than not reconfiguring and having the 22k burners at the front left and right, and thus closer to the edges of a 42" one. If you want, we could have an argument over fluid mechanics over that. I did point out how a smaller hood would be sub-optimal to my wife and did read some of the comments to her. However, I know that compromising is a vital part of a healthy relationship. And a compromise to a smaller hood which is arguably equivalent for the majority of the cooking that I will do seems fine to me. Plus, she is now fully aware of the potential odor and grease issues and I can always refer to this thread in the future should she complain about greasy plates and smelly shirts. Lastly, in regards to the skiing analogy. I'd argue that the most important piece of ski equipment is not the skis but the boots themselves. That's why boots are so much more customizable. You can't deny that you'd ski better in $1500 boots and beginner skis than the other way around. To me, the range is the equivalent of the boots. I can cook a pretty good meal on a 36" BlueStar with just rudimentary ventilation. I can't say the same if I had a hot plate and a custom made, fancy hood guaranteed to capture all possible effluent.
...See More
theoriginaldawgone
14 years ago
The garden center folks are incorrect-- I have a massive one-- but like the other posters say-- you can prune to keep it as needed
carolinamary
14 years ago
We recently bought a Kanjiro that I'd call mature (in a 15-gallon pot). It's at least 5 feet tall but probably no wider than maybe 40". It has larger leaves than the one pictured above that's growing in full sun, and unless you're growing yours in full sun, expect a leafier-looking plant overall. No doubt the camellia will continue to grow outward some as well as upward, but it would be awhile before you'd have to worry about trimming the branches because of the plant growing too wide, I'd guess.

Your situation of having a choice of one plant only isn't wonderful, but I think you'll wind up happy anyway. We had a choice of tons of varieties (we bought a bunch for a new landscaping area and a local nursery was willing to buy from several wholesale places for us) but Kanjiro is one I definitely wanted. As a hiemalis (though often sold in with the sasanquas), its blooms don't fall apart so easily as the sasanquas do, and in fact is specifically recommended as having prolific blooms that are good for cutting. Very hardy, as well.

Setting price aside, so far I've seen no reason to regret buying the huge camellias we bought, even though apparently some folks have problems with planting larger camellias out of a pot. We did make sure to work the outermost roots along the bottom and periphery out from their potting soil and get them started growing into the dirt in the ground. And also used some mycorrhiza (BioVam) on the roots.

One reason you can readily find Kanjiro is that it's *easy to grow*, according to everything I've seen about it.

Best wishes,
Mary

'Kanjiro' width observations

Comments (4)

luis_pr

okintos

Related Discussions

theoriginaldawgone

carolinamary

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US