We just got a new web site online with all the information on Lingonberry farming. The Brother's Lingonberries: http://airellesdesfreres.com/?lang=en

Ok here some info...It grows in a range of sandy soils which in part maybe gravelly or peaty... must be grown in Free draining soil.."Scree" the root system must be protected from hot sun. The foliage can take lots of sunshine... Plants are short lived 4-5years but if you prune it will extend this by a few years..Damage can occur on anything below -2C and will be killed at -6C...Dislikes winter wet..... Flowers freely where happy.... This is not the hardiest form... There is one that will tolerate at least to -9C...and is the hardiest form and tolerates more winter wet

There are only 2 species of Lupinus in eastern No. America. L. perennis and L. polyphyllus, a garden excape. Yours looks like L. perennis. The difference appears to be in the number of leaflets: L. perennis has 11 or less per leaf whereas the larger L. polyphyllus has up to 17 or so leaflets. Another difference that might help is that the flowers of L. perennis tend to be distinctly bi-color with softer hues than those of L. polyphyllus and the flower spikes tend to be smaller in overall size. L. polyphyllus is the one you can find at garden centers.

Mat, yeah I have 2018 and 2019 to write up. I have all my notes. Just have to find time. I checked out Pepiniere casse noisette website. They do not list their rootstocks anywhere that I can find. What rootstocks are your pears, peaches, apricots on? Honestly, a lot of what they are selling, at least in apricots, peach, nectarines seem to me to be VERY marginal for their climate. In many case they mention useful for growing in pots but if that is the case how are they propagating for sale? I don't want to disparage them without information but my impression is they might be reselling . You absolutely need to be buying based upon root-stock. For apples I am not only buying on Bud118 as it has best cold hardiness and is vigorus for our short seasons - Bud9 is just too slow. Train and prune to keep the size you want. Pears on OHxF87 or 97 and prune/train. I have found PAW-PAWs to be marginal in 4b - still 3' tall after 5+ years. Blueberries don't like my soil so Haskasps and Currants are much better. You have better options than Indigo Gem, Aurora is good though. Pink Lemonade is like a zone 5/6 plant, I see little chance of it surviving. Both Whiffletree and vigneschezsoi are good options. Be aware that a 1-2 year old bare root grape vine will bear fruit 1-2 years faster than the same year rooted cuttings you will get from vigneschezsoi. If you are only buying a couple might want to spend a couple extra $$ to get fruit a whole year or 2 earlier. Somerset and Trolhaugen are good. Had a couple Brianna this year, not enough to really say. Get Bluebell as well. I suggest 10-15' between vines. Can go closer but I am of the hack back 90% every year and then let grow. Trollhaugen can put out 12-15' of growth in 1 year alone - plant closer and you have to keep on top of canopy thinning to avoid overgrowth. Apples and pears will benefit from bagging with ziplocs. Grapes I bag with Organza bags when starting to turn color. So far I am loosing 99% of stone fruit (plums) to plum curlico and the rest to birds/racoons (can't bag plums - they rot). All peaches die. Trying apricots but no fruit yet. Don't get too caught up on types of fruit. Buy something disease resistant on a hardy, vigorus rootstock then topwork as you get enough branch structure. You will then be able to test fruit to see what you like or not within 3 years of grafting. My crabapple is now up to 65+ different apples grafted to it.