I was mistaking the yellow leaves for flowers. Regarding chlorosis, there are many causes. Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis and is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency or too much phosphorus in the soil. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. For a quick but only temporary improvement in the appearance of the foliage, ferrous sulfate can be dissolved in water (1 ounce in 2 gallons of water) and sprinkled on the foliage. Some garden centers sell chelated iron, which provides the same results. Follow the label recommendations for mixing and applying chelated iron. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. Here is a link that might be useful: Problems and fixes for rhododendrons and azaleas.

I use alot of others ideas and make my own. I was hooked when I started. DH have a way of doing things like that. I had a leaf that mine hit. Thought it was way off the side but I thought wrong. Of course it was one of the nicest. I started using one of those plastic masks from the craft store. But I have since made some molds from those masks you hang on the wall. I call them Mardi Grais masks. Email me if you want more information. But be sure make it clear in the subject. My email seems to be messed up and I either don't get alot or they get deleted. Thanks Kathy

Those pictures look like nutrient deficiencies to me. Compost has to break down before plants can absorb its nutrients. I would suggest foliar feeding with a complete formula that also contains micronutrients. Spray generously so that some of the nutrient liquid drips into the soil where it can also be absorbed by the roots. I use several commercial soluble nutrient formulas, including Miracle-Gro and Better-Gro. For foliar feeding, you don't want the stuff to be too concentrated, so I dilute it to about one teaspoon per gallon. If you will be spraying flower petals, which are extra sensitive, I would use only about one quarter teaspoon per gallon. You could increase that to one tablespoon per gallon if you were not foliar spraying, but just watering the plant with a nutrient drench. ZM

Yikes! I agree with Jean that removal and replacement makes the most sense at this stage of infestation. For the future, scale insects don't build up a population like that overnight. This looks like a looooooong time in the making, as in years. Occasional inspection of your plants can be really helpful in spotting a problem before it ends up like this. The tiny white bumps, by the way, are the newest generation of the same kind of insect.