Hi, I'm actually a soapmaker so hopefully, I can help a little bit. Soap is basically oil combined with lye. They lye saponifies the oil and creates soap. You can make soap with pretty much any oil - animal and veggie oils alike. However, a good soapmaker studies the fatty acid profile of each oil (and they're all different) to come up with a soap recipe that has the qualities they want - conditioning, bubbles, cleaning, hardness etc... Commercial soaps are typically lard or beef fat (sodium lardate or sodium tallowate) and have added colors, scents, hardeners, detergents etc.... Homemade or organic soaps are typically nothing more than saponified oils - either animal fats, veggie fats or a combination of the two. They may have fragrance added but, if it's an organic soap, the fragrance will typically be in the form of essential oils. So, back to the question about fatty acids - yes, true soap, whether made from animal or vegetable does contain fatty acids, the fatty acid composition will be completely different depending upon the combination of oils used. Hope this helps! Michelle

jean001a, plants were outdoors. From the link I posted: "...tested it on a few older plants for a couple of days, tested it on a couple of newer plants for 12 hours. Ok, no damage, good to go. Applied it liberally, following the instructions to the letter, at night when it was 65 degrees." Slimy_okra, Product Description Kills and repels garden insects and mites. Kills exposed eggs, larvae and adult stages. ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE �" WORKS ON CONTACT! SPRAY AND HARVEST ON SAME DAY! KILLS ON CONTACT NET CONTENTS: 24 FL. OZ. (1 PT. 8 FL. OZ. / 709 mL) Active Ingredients: Rosemary Oil â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦.. 0.25% Peppermint Oil â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦0.25% Thyme Oil â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦.. 0.25% Clove Oil â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦. 0.25% Other Ingredients*â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦. 99.00% Total â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦â¦. 100.00% *Water, Mineral Oil (USP), Octadecenoic Acid Potassium Salt, Lecithin

Yes. Insecticidal soap can be harmful if applied and then brightness or warmth is intense. Not sure how that would apply in your case but if it happened, it happened. For future reference, never apply ANY pesticide when temps are >80F or the sum of the temp and humidity is >140. For this reason (with insecticidal soap), I apply in the evening and rinse off in the morning. Since it's a contact killer, there's no reason to leave it on the plant. Back to the fungus gnats -- not sure if either take care of them(you can ask in the garden clinic forum). But, here are some things you may want to try that are much less stressful. 1) Usually, fungus gnats are a byproduct from overwatering. So, don't overwater. Bottom watering helps (particularly with seedlings), but also let soil become completely dry between waterings. Also, setting up a small fan helps dry out the top layer of soil where gnat larvae are. 2) Sprinkle cinnamon around. Just one of those natural deterrents that nature gives us. 3) Every 2 weeks, water with 1 part hydrogen peroxide(3%) to 4 parts water. This really keeps the damping off fungus at bay. 4) Last but not least... mosquito dunks. Bacillus thuringiensis Israelensis variant. NOT the K (kurstaki) variant -- which is used for caterpillars). A bacteria that attacks the larvae. 5) Neem oil. This one I figured out myself. It kills soft bodied insects like fungus gnats but also doubles as a fungicide. Fungus gnats aren't really a pest problem past the seedling stage. Normally one can control them with cultural practices which brings us back to the whole overwatering/air circulation stuff i mentioned above. Kevin

Two different dilutions of Acetamiprid in the two different products but the trigger spray is the weaker one by far so there should be no issue there. Neither product lists spider mites that I can see but both are supposedly ok to use on squash up to 7 days prior to harvest. So are you asking is it safe to use or safe to eat? If they survive the spraying and the spider mites don't kill them I can't see any reason why you should have to rip out the plants. Dave