If indeed your tree is starving for oxygen, which it does sound like your tree may be experiencing the bathtub effect due to the organic matter added to the backfill, and you don't want to move the tree, one can water a newly planted tree with a three percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. This puts oxygen to the soil and water, it is not strong enough to do any real damage to the microflora that provide nutrients to the roots. You buy hydrogen peroxide at a much stronger level and in bulk, and you dilute it down. You're not supposed to fertilize a newly planted tree without a soil test first to determine just exactly what and if any alterations to the chemistry of the soil are called for. A slightly lean soil can actually encourage root growth, which initially is all you're trying to do for that tree, get settled in and established. In addition, one can make a hole near the tree that is deeper than the root ball in order to assist in drainage if that's the problem. One time I dug a chanell all the way around a newly planted and troubled tree. But nowadays, I try to avoid the scenario altogether if I want to amend the soil that I'm planting in, and plant in a mound of native soil I get from a different part of the yard. That's the only safe way I've noted of adding organic material to the soil that the tree is planted in, and not cause a serious drainage problem. The trunk collar, or root flare, in addition, needs to be exposed to air, not covered with soil or mulch. Extremely imporant. It's often about twice the diameter of the actual trunk, so you'll know when you find it. Roots need water, and they need air. That is why it is somewhat of an art, to not water too frequently, but enough to where the tree doesn't dehydrate. It sounds contradictory, water plus air, but it's a cycle that the soil goes through between near dryness to being moist again. An amended hole can disrupt this normal cycle by not draining fast enough. It's critical at this juncture not to overwater or underwater your tree. The more trees you kill, the better you get at planting trees, I've noted. I suspect your tree is struggling and might not make it, so one tries to make a learning experience out of it. Then again, it might overcome. Best Wishes.

Looking at Mary's and then Rina's jades, the only one that looks any way different to me is Hummel's Ghost. As we see with Rina's variegated jades, which all are cuttings from the same original plant, it is clear that most other variegated jades are basically just that, variegated Crassula ovata - even Tricolor can have some leaves more ovate than others; on all variegated jades, some leaves will be more oblique, some more ovate, and all types of leaves can appear on all variegated jades; hence I conclude they are basically all the same. Because I know that Hummel's Ghost is said to have been a sport on Hummel's Sunset, I do hold that as different. All are beautiful, anyway, when not blighted by those brown marks some clones carry. There are other jades which are obviously distinct cultivars, including Maruba Nishiki, Denethor, Solana, When you look at them and then look again at the various variegated jades, you can see the Tricolor, Akai etc. are too alike to be separate named varieties.

Luis has given you excellent advice re caring for the plant. The plant looks healthy to me- it just needs a bit of shape-pruning to improve its appearance. In terms of getting it to look less "scraggly", you'll want to cut the plant back to promote bushiness. As a general rule, a camellia that has gotten tall and lanky ought to cut back pretty far to promote branching, but since this is a public plant that is expected to stay looking nice, you might need to do this in steps, rather than all at once? Since the camellia has been getting good care for a few months, and has flowered, I think it would be fine to go ahead and cut it back a little. Once you see how the camellia puts out new leaves in reponse to that initial pruning, that will give you an idea about how to proceed for a fuller, leafier shrub. Something to keep in mind is that camellias set their flower buds for the next season soon after they finish flowering. This means that if you prune after that window of opportunity closes you may be sacrificing the next season's blooms. It won't hurt the plant to do so; you just may not get as many flowers as you might have had otherwise. There's a lot of good info online about how and when to prune; here's a link for starters: http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1724266.htm It helps to know what look you're aiming for, and then shape according to that goal and how your individual shrub responds to pruning. Camellias all respond well to pruning, but they are slow-growing so it may take a few years before you start seeing the shape you like. Good luck, Virginia

Do not rush to assuming the worse and cutting without thorough checking first. It may not be necessary to cut all off. If my plants, this is what I would do: (take photos and post if not sure) - 1. pat dry with a kitchen paper towel to soak up as much moisture as possible 2. fell the stems/trunks for any softness. There is difference between soft from rotting and soft in limp, thirsty plant. If trunks feel soft above the roots, do as nomen suggested, cutting off all the ends including existing roots. 3. cut a slice off of the very end, maybe 1/4" thick, and see what color the flesh is. If it has any black/dark spots at all, that is likely rot. In that case, keep cutting similar slices off until only light-colored flesh is visible. It should be light green, whitish, creamy color. If rotted, you may have to cut off a lot. Do not worry if this happens, just make sure you get healthy flesh. If you need to cut above the existing roots, plant will re-root with proper care. 4. double-check health of roots; it maybe visible if they are dry (cut of dry/dead ends); they may be soft/mushy and sort of slimy - that is rot. Cut off until healthy. Color of roots varies, they could be very light or bit darker but should be quite firm - if rotted, one should be able to tell. Sometimes, rotted pieces may have foul odor (not always). 5. after all cleaning and checking, dust the cut trunks ends lightly with powdered cinnamon (natural fungicide), or flowers of sulfur. Not absolutely necessary. 6. let callus cut pieces for day or few, out of direct sun but in space that has good air circulation. 7. assemble (or buy) well-draining mix. Pic of mix nomen posted gives you good idea. Tell us what you have available or what you can get easily to suggest how to mix. I use mix of grit+sifted perlite and some turface. There are many ways to assemble a good mix. 8. get a pot with drainage holes, do not get pot that is huge. Fill with new mix, and pot the trunks. Deeper than it was may not be needed - it depends if you had to cut much off or not. Inserting it deeply because it may be wobbly doesn't help - plant will be stable once roots grow in and anchor it. Use large rocks to support the plant temporarily. If really heavy, it is possible to tie it down. Keep plant in spot that won't get 'bumped' easily. Leave it out of strong sun for few days immediately after repotting, but it will need as much light as possible, with whatever sunlight you can supply, to grow well. Good air circulation is also beneficial. Use sharp blade for cutting, and wipe clean between the cuts with a paper/cloth towel moistened with rubbing alcohol, or even bit of bleach in order not to spread possible rot. Sorry for the long post. It is quite simple after you try first time. Ask any further q you may have...