>So, I guess my question is what habitat is being destroyed? "To harvest a bog for peat moss, it must first be drained, dried and then cut. The resulting fields can be too dry for Sphagnum to regenerate and even if the water level returns to normal, it can take years for bogs to return to their former state. " to me that is habitat destruction and everything within that area including plants, birds, insects, and other life is going to be seriously affected. some things will probably perish while others will be displaced to other areas to compete in unfamiliar territory for their survival. Imagine for a minute that everything you rely on for survival like shelter, food etc is on your property. Then one day someone comes along with a bulldozer and knocks down your house, digs up your food crops, runs over your chickens and tells you to get out and go somewhere else, and you can come back in 20 years and start again. Then they said "whats the problem? yours is the only house in the suburb we're doing this to (for now) so it's not like it's a big deal" it wouldnt be much consolation to you :) "Development or alteration of peatlands can have a significant impact on their carbon storage capacity, and can change them from sinks to sources of carbon. For example, drainage leads to the oxidation of the peat layer and the accelerated release of carbon dioxide, methane and other greenhouse gases into the atmosphere" Is this something we really should be encouraging? It doesnt matter what we do, it always has an affect but the human race is very good at convincing ourselves (or being convinced by invested parties) that we're not really doing any damage. But all that aside there is so much organic waste being thrown away that it seems so wasteful to spend resources on mining and transporting peat around, draining and disrupting peat bogs when we could just as easily use compost in most cases and utilise a lot more of this waste that we all generate. Here is a link that might be useful: The Importance of Being a bog

What an interesting and informative thread. Strawberry, I am particularly interested in your assertion that pine mulch is useful for holding water. I have a rose bed in my front yard that is in direct sun all day. It also sits on the highest site in the yard and is pretty much sand and gravel underneath. I dug the bed 11 years ago and completely filled it with triple mix, which is equal parts soil, peat and manure, to 24 inches. I planted 18 roses as well as perenials such as Delphiniums and Salvias in the bed. That bed was a show stopper for the first nine years when there was lots of rain, including heavy thunderstorms each summer. People would frequently stop to smell the roses and tell me how much they enjoyed walking by that bed. Well the last two summers have been very hot and record breaking dry. Last summer was an official drought with only three days of precipitation between June and September. Many of the roses died outright, the rest declined to mere sticks barely hanging on in spite of my daily watering which was arduous, expensive and obviously a waste of water. When I dug up a couple of the dead roses in late summer I noted that the peat fibres and soil were bone dry, even with regular watering. The roses that succumbed were varieties that had not done well even in cooler years. The hot sun was litterally baking the surface of the bed in spite of heavy surface mulch. The daily dose of water was evaporating from the surface and obviously percolating right through the topsoil, all 2 feet of it, and draining through the gravel below. I had already decided to dig the whole thing up this spring and put in new triple mix and manure. With your insite into composted pine mulch and its water retaining properties, I think I will add a good portion of that as well. As gardeners, we constantly must adapt to changing conditions. The climate in my garden has changed drastically in the past two years, who knows if the change is permanent or an anomally. Hopefully, I can find a way to increase the water holding capacity in that bed and restore it to its former health and glory. Perhaps a good dose of composted pine mulch and composted manure layered deep on the bottom of the bed will help. Good thread Ingrid. Thanks for the discussion everyone. Cheeers, Rick Here is a link that might be useful: The Myth of Pretty Mulch - Washington State Universtiy

Interesting i missed the hard water softner in it... seems like it maybe salt based just like the miele not 100%. Sorry not really answering your question but adding some more info about the model. only one handle available no ultra handle and no panel avail... has lcd also. from the official sales brochure: Available 1st Quarter 2011 Architect� Series II KUDE60SX � 43 dBA** Performance � EQ Wash System � Targeted Wash Zones � Hard Water Softener � 6 Cycles (ProWash�, Heavy Duty, Normal, One Hour Wash, Light/China, Rinse Only) � 7 Options (ProScrub,� Sani-Rinse, Hi-Temp Scrub, ProDry,� Top Rack Wash, 4 Hour Delay, Control Lock) � Dedicated Drying System with ProDry� Option � Optimum Wash Sensor � AquaSense� Fill System � Whisper Quiet� 43 Sound Insulation System Craftsmanship & Design � Fully Integrated with Display Console � Architect� Series II Handle � Tall Tub with Stainless Steel Interior � 16 Place Setting Capacity � Light-Touch Controls with Audio Feedback � LED Status Display � Culinary Tool Rack � Flood Protection Technology � ENERGY STAR� Qualified � CEE Tier 2 Qualified Upper and Lower Racks � DuraKote� Nylon-Coated Racks � Cushion-Tip� Tines Upper Rack � Adjustable with SatinGlide� Max System and Premium Adjusters � Robust Handle with Stainless Steel Insert � 2 Fold-Down Rows with Two-Position Tines � 6 Sure-Hold� Light Items Clips � 2 Fold-Down Plastic Cup Shelves with Integrated Stemware Holders Lower Rack � 2 Fold-Down Rows with Two- and Three-Position Tines � Culinary Caddy� Utensil Basket � Exclusive Silverware Basket Design with Four Sliding Covers Color � Stainless Steel (SS)

I can't figure out how to start a thread , so please pardon me uf wrong place... I have read and re read the container soils forum nentioned above . According to that, my situation is hopeless. .. . I nade a dumb mistake in desperation, for planting mix for jasmines and ordered Dr. Earth acid loving mix from Amazon, spent a fortune to get it , as I was not able to go anywhere for a while. . Long story short, that thing holds so much moisture, it drains for at least 5 mins in a 6 inch pot and a quart of water. After draining for a while it feels fairly open but initially its so.....o wet. I don't have a yard or the heart to throw it... can I do anything to make it better ?? I lost my big sambacs after last winter to spidermites I think . When I pulled them out, roots were still fleshy and very healthy, so I am guessing mites ,.. all jasmines died even my 22 rooted cuttings died ( though everyone I took rooted!!! :-( :-( ) - all in an unheated sunroom. Ordered a few more for 1 last try but they need to go in bigger pots ... per Top Tropicals advice. I even ordered 2 bags of soil from them but 3 gallon bag didnt even fill I new 3 gallon container to plant a 3 gallon plant, even with the plant's existing 2 gallon pot full. Please tell me what I can do ?? Please Al, if you see this, help me. I have bags of fine bark one from last year , one from 2 weeks ago! Half a bag of pea gravel . Tried mixing half bark and half of this mix, it still takes a few secs for the water to start going through the top .... Sorry for long winded post, I am really desperate. I used gardner and bloom acid mix last time and obviously it kept the roots healthy But can't find anywhere locally.