If you take a bus through from Russia to Estonia and then the fields are TOTALLY full of Euphorbia cyparissias. I hit it just as the flowers were starting to open so some of the fields were still blue green and the other side would gradually blown out yellow with chartreuse in-between. Fields and fields of . It is amazing to see those colors on a mass scale. Unbelievable ,â¦.but MONOLITHIC. It is everywhere. It must be the farmers bane. Gardeweed, You made me laugh so hard with "soil no deeper than a few feet". Try places of Half inch. 1 Foot is deep in my book.Euphorbia rigid and myrsinites will take the heat in the summer. Many of the Euphorbias get burnt up in Texas. This post was edited by wantonamara on Thu, May 29, 14 at 20:22

Yes. And they're crowding up my top 10. Plant them both. First Blush is very beautiful, from early spring to late fall. It forms a tidy, compact mound (so perfect it looks like it was formed with a pair of nail scissors) about 2' in height by 3'. The foliage emerges white and green with lots and lots of pink in early spring. As the pink fades, the bright yellow flower bracts appear and are effective for about 1 month. After flowering, the plant keeps its compact dainty appearance until the cool weather, when pink tones begin to colour up the leaves again. It melts into a puddle of pink and white and green when the killing frosts come, but is still worth looking at. Bonfire sports dark maroon foliage, which is darkest in spring. The brilliant yellow flower bracts are a stunning contrast to the foliage. Foliage turns blue-green with dark highlights during the summer. They look good together, or apart, and it is difficult to decide at what point during the season they are the prettiest. Both are very drought tolerant. I have never fertilized or watered them and have been growing them since first introduced. Bonfire isn't quite as compact as First Blush, and this year, for the first time, it self-seeded to produce one dark-leafed plant, not as attractive as its mother. But that's the first seedling in at least five years - I'm not sure when I first planted it. I envy Gardengal for all the euphorbia that her climate will support and ours will not. rouge21, did you pick your name for the river?

how dangerous is it, really? You dont want the white colored sap getting into your eyes, sores or areas of skin with open pores. You dont want the thorns sticking you which could pierce the skin as the white latex sap can also pass though the thorns like a hypodermic needle. Sap can sometimes numb an open skin area before feeling the REAL pain from it. Skin rashes are also sometimes seen from sap exposure. Sap can cause blindness with out prompt medical assistance some Euphorbias will have an effect on kidneys and/or liver. Euphorbia sap also has a history of use as a laxative Over cautions for pruning would include: Use laytex gloves on both hands and thick soft foam ( Example; a piece of bed mattress ) to move the cut Euphorbia pieces away. Remaining potted plant Allow all the sap to flow out protecting it from hot direct sun contact as the sap will thin like water and may bleed out longer if in more direct sun. Area surrounding pruned cuts should darken/ discolor when dry. I normally allow sap to dry 24-48 hours before re-handling. anything to look out for before handling? Maybe I'm being too paranoid Not at all better to be safe than to call 911

I do like the own root idea but to get so many plants so cheaply grafting is the only way to go. Own roots are better in the long run. Own root roses are far better than the grafted ones. No suckers to worry about but with all good, there is bad. Some of the wild root stock is hardier and can take more disease and bug infestations. So like life, it is a trade off.