Well if it happened to you I don't feel so bad now about mine not coming up, lol. Sorry you lost your seeds though.

I tried straight fine vermiculite. Results are fair. It needs a moss binder just too loose. Then again these were abused and just left outside to fend for themselves. I am at week 3 and about 30% are up out of 280. Not all are brugs, some dats and 4 o'clocks.

I've tried using straight vermiculite before. it seems to work well for some seeds but not others. I have good results using vermiculite for citrus and papaya seeds.
Karyn

I've found that for me the kind of mix has almost zero effect on germination or seed rotting in the hole, as long as the mix is sterilized by cooking or boiling water, and the container is covered to keep it that way.
I've had everything from vermiculite, sand, and even heavy tropical potting soil do great; they only really affect how the seedlings grow after their seedling leaves.
Sometimes the seed can be sterile or already dead inside the seed coat, and then when it rots we can mistakenly blame the soil. The seeds are also delicious to many little bugs, like fungus gnat larvae and others. If the soil isn't clean or doesn't remain covered then the effect of these bugs looks similar to rotting, and again we can blame the soil.
So if you sterilize the soil & keep it covered you can use almost anything: vermiculite is loose & easy for large quanities, but nutrient dead so you need to be a fast replanter. Regular soil has more nutrients and they can stay in it longer, but a bit harder to transplant from, and you need to make "more sure" that it's sterilized. Either of these will get almost every single viable seed germinated, I use something in between. :^)
- Tom

I think the bagged seed starting was to blame for that one tray. Seeds from the same batches started in other mixes were fine. That mix was so compacted once it was watered. I don't think that any oxygen could get into the soil. It was almost like a wet sand consistancy with absolutely no air in it and I hadn't used much water. A nasty mix. I wish I could remember who made it but the bag is long gone.
Karyn

Karyn I'm trying to show you that for germination it's not really about the mix, it's about how clean it is. :^)
Yes it's true that if you have a lousy mix you can have fungal problems... *if it's not sterilized*, but I am sure I could get full germination in it with the method I described.
That is not the only reason to sterilize your mix though(or use a reeeealy clean one). If you don't sterilize then you probably can't keep it covered for weeks while it germinates, and if you don't keep it covered then you will likely loose some germinated seed to imperfect watering, some to self-decapitation from low humidity, and others will grow slower and less perfect than covered ones.

If you're really worried about too much water in boggy mixes, one tip is to pre-wet it, pot it up after it's moist, and keep it covered so you don't have to water it. This way will keep a loose, uncompressed, friable structure even wet.
- Tom

Tom what I am saying is I think the bagged mix was infected with some sort of fungus and/or bacteria. Maybe it took hold so fast because there was no aeration possible because the mix became so compacted when water was applied. Many fungi and bacteria will explode in an anerobic environment.
Karyn

Surely true Karyn. :^) And if it's sterilized like I described then that mix will be just fine regardless of it's water-holding capacity.

A little OT but I saw this show where they were germinating thier tomato seeds in 1/2 coconut fiber and 1/2 vermicompost and you should of seen the stems on those things! I bet brugs would do well in that mix too. I am definitely gonna be trying this in the spring. The mix is organic and full of the 'good' bacteria.

SJN: Sounds like something I want to try. What is the name of the mix? Where can I get Cocnut fiber if I have to make my own mix? Is vermicompost the same as earht worm castings? Gloria

SJN I use coir fiber blocks or CBC blocks in most potting mixes. Both are made of coconut bark/fiber and they work very well.

Tom I can't stand the Schultz, Miracle Gro or Peter's products so I'll blame any and everything that goes wrong on them. lol I use Fafard soils as the base for all my mixes and have never had to sterilize the mixes I make even when I cover the trays. Our greenhouse manager also makes his own seed starting mix with Pro-mix (which I also dislike) as a base and doesn't sterilize it and never has a problem. The only time I sterilize soil is when I'm recycling it and even then I very rarely bother. At the farm we toss all the old soil that's been used for GH plants in the compost piles then use it on the outdoor plants. I didn't even think about sterilizing a bagged mix that was unopened.
Karyn

I get my coir in extra large bags from the local nursery-supply wholesaler.

Karyn both Pro-Mix & Fafard have similar fully artificial soils with almost no available organics in the mix; they are basically seed-starting mixes bagged as potting soil. They're awesome for nusery use where you have a regular steady constant supply of nutrients & don't need any in your mix. Which Fafard do you like?
Even in those mixes you need perfect greenhouse humidity and great air movement to prevent all cases of damping off. Most use a fungicide, especially if it's going to be tightly covered for a month or more, do you?

Gloria, yes vermicompost is the same as worm castings. You can get the coconut fiber in a expandible brick or by the bag. Make sure you rinse the coconut fiber a few times to remove all salts etc. Some places already sell it removed from the coir and some don't.

For my personal plant collection I use Fafard 2 Mix for seeds and cuttings and 3-B for everything else. I usually ammend it with various things, orchid bark, pumice, compost, charcoal, etc. The guys use Pro-mix for the business. I can't stand it. Having to pre-wet it before using it is a major PITA. They don't use fungicides on a prophylactic basis. There's also nothing growing in there that requires being covered for more then a couple weeks. We have 15,000+ ft under glass at the farm and rarely have a problem with fungus. I wouldn't say we have perfect air circulation or humidity but there's decent exhaust, irrigation and misting systems. The seeds I have at home are another story. I have some that take up to a year to germinate.
Karyn

SJN: Thanks. Will be looking for the C/Fiber Bricks. Already have the worm castings as I use it in my potting soil mix. So much to learn and so little time!!! Gloria

The seeds in the LF sphagnum have already sprouted. That was quick! I'll have to see how they do once transplanted. Any other seeds I've germinated in moss have transitioned to soil without a problem, hopefully the brugs will too.
Karyn

That's great Karyn. :^)
I would consider transplanting as early as possible. I've found that in any of the artificial/low nutrient media the seedlings lag behind those in a regular soil.
- Tom

I wait until the cotyledons split and the first true leaves are just showing. It's easier for me to handle & transplant them at that point.
Karyn

Ok, I have this big bag of LF sphagnum. How would you use it for seedlings? Just cram it down into the seeding tray cells. I am about to fill all my trays up and start the rest of my seeds.

It has been magic for making brug rolls. I made about 15 rolls with from 4-6 cuttings in each and lost only maybe 4 cuttings. they slept in the cold outside. I am a believer in its ability to ward off fungus,molds and bacteria.

Jim I moisten the sphagnum and put it in a Tupperware container. I just try to cover the seeds with a little of the moss and put it on a heat source. I open the container daily to make sure there's no mold. I originally started using LF sphagnum for seeds that needed cold moist stratification in the fridge then I started using it for all kinds of seeds that are big enough to handle. I like it for rooting cuttings as well.

Karyn

Thanks,

Ok, I will venture down to the dollar store for some plastic containers. I do need to improve my method or wait for more stable temperatures outside.

I got my manettia (candy corn) vine today from Ron and he said he used fafard too. He said he recommended potting up to the next size in this before going outdoors to be planted as this does not tolerate overwatering at all. I have to find some of that stuff.

Check with some of the better nurseries. If they don't already use it for their stock they'll probably be willing to order it in for you. For container plants you want Fafard 3B. To start seeds you want 2 Mix. You won't find it at a big box store. You can also look online to find some place local that carries it. I wouldn't buy it online because shipping would be ridiculous. I'm not sure what Ron adds to his mix but it looks kind of like rice husks. I was looking at it the other day and wondering what it was.
Karyn