Limas are very prone to rotting, especially if conditions are too wet and/or too cool. Because of my exceptionally cool wet spring this year, I started mine indoors, with great results... "King of the Garden" was 100%. When starting beans under lights, I always use peat pots (usually Jiffy strip 32's, or pots for the largest limas), sterile seed starter, and boiled water. This reduces the chance of the seed rotting, or damping off. I do not recommend the use of inoculant for starting beans indoors, since I have had some poor results using it. If you don't want to use seed starter, I've also used play sand for beans with good results. The drainage is excellent, and the seeds have no difficulty breaking through. You need to transplant them quickly though (or feed them) since there are no nutrients in the sand. Watch for drying too. If you are able to control temperature, 80 F. degrees is ideal for most beans. Bottom heat works well, if you can supply it. You can also make a small temperature-controlled germinator, with a box of sturdy material, a baseboard thermostat , and an incandescent bulb at the bottom as a heat source (be sure the socket is protected from water!). I modified a small "Germanette" greenhouse for seed starting, adding lights above the shelves & a small thermostatically-controlled electric heater. Beans sometimes germinate poorly in peat-based mixes. Adding a little nitrogen to the water used to soak the pots initially will give the best germination rate. A relatively weak solution is all that is necessary; about 1 tsp. of liquid fertilizer per gallon. If the fertilizer is from an organic source, boil it with the water to ensure sterility. Be sure not to use too much water; I soak the pots in a flat over-night, then pour off any excess solution in the morning. Once the beans begin to germinate, get them outside as soon as possible. They get leggy quickly under fluorescent lights. This also avoids the necessity of hardening them off before transplanting. As with all peat pots, tear off any loose edges before transplanting, and be sure the pot is buried completely.

You didn't say what the root was growing in. Is it in water or dirt? My avocado are planted outside - but even then, they are very picky trees to get to production, especially in cooler climates. If you started the seed in water - toothpick method, it probably would be wise to consider it a short-term interest. I find avocado to be the most difficult trees to grow here. Although - if you noted a root, perhaps planting it in compost mixed with a bit of peat moss and perlite in a pot - may contribute some help to the root growth. I would allow the top of the seed to protrude above the soil. Then water with dilute fertilizer once established. I have heard tales of avocado seeds started that way going on to be fairly decent producers, but as a rule, avocado trees are grafted --- and babied. They prefer much warmer climates as well, dislike too much water, like heavy mulch, and heavy feedings during months of greatest growth. Just my 2 c's. Bejay

woody perennials are just slow to start from seed....the reason propagation of rosemary is usually by cuttings. if they look healthy why worry? they might just sit there as is till spring when they will take off. best wishes for a bumper crop of rosemary! one of my favorite herbs for sure

Hi Joff: This has nothing to do with basil! I am a Canadian, recently transplanted in Guanacaste. Can you recommend any gardening books that would assist me in planning a garden and selecting plants? Most tropical gardening books assume that there is shade and lots of water. Not so in Guanacaste, as you know. I'm starting from scratch, including having to ammend the soil. And, need help and advice.