newbie's winter sowing containers milk jugs step by step illustra

12 years ago

Thought this might help someone else, that is if it passes the experienced WSowers criteria. Feel free to give your opinion here, but I think a picture is worth a 1,000 words so these pictures might be the start for someone else to figure out a better way to do this.

This is just what I did, and from the outset, it does no have to be this detailed. I don't make hundreds of milk jugs and wanted to reuse them next year.

I'm still unsure if I will use pipe cleaners to fasten the jugs together or tape but I thought I'd leave the option open.

If someone wants to use these illustrations that is fine, just let me know. Thought Trudi might like them on her website

wintersown.org

I've also included other containers.

Hopefully, if you run your cursor over the picture a discription will show up,

Having fun,

collecting more and more milk jugs.

Micki

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Comments (3)

northforker
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I think the picutures will be very helpful to someone who wants to samples - I know I alway did when I was trying to figure all this out..

I'd calm down a bit on the hole drilling - milk jugs need only the spout hole on top and you shouldn't need more then a few wellspaced holes in the BOTTOMS of jugs or containers. I think a lot of side holes will shorten the life of the container eventually cause they will make it structurally weaker.

I recognize the walmart lasanga trays! I've used some for 4 seasons, so I think they are a good investment. The clear tops have cracked a bit, some repairs made with tape.
micki
Original Author
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
thank you Nan,
other than wearing down the structures is there any other draw back to the many holes? (Other than time, of course?) Has anyone ever compared the difference? I'm not being rude, just think that proper drainage is very important. Now it might make the contaierns dry out too fast; if that is the case please let me know,
Thanks to anyone who wants to comment. Truly I am not at all defensive on my ideas since I've never done this better.

Nan or anyone, when in the Spring do your container strart to dry out? Such as middle of May. When do you have to start watering your containers? Have you ever had one water logged?

I looked up your zone, it is zone 7 right? I think Long Island could be considered both 6 and 7 right?
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I got this in an email from BHG. The Magic Milk Jug For sheer versatility in the garden, nothing comes close to the humble plastic milk jug. Save both half-gallon and gallon sizes to create these garden helpers. 1.Seed flats. Starting your own seeds is the easiest way to cut your gardening costs to the bone. And it's the only way to get many of the newest varieties. To save space and bother, start seeds in shallow trays filled with potting soil, then transplant the strongest seedlings to pots later on. To make free seed flats, cut off the bottom three inches of a gallon milk jug and punch a few holes in the bottom with a nail. Fill with potting mix, and use a pencil to create two or three shallow furrows for sowing. Then plant your seeds according to the packet directions. 2.Mini greenhouse. In northern zones, young transplants and seedlings are easy prey for spring and fall frosts. Protect them with their own personal greenhouse. Just cut the bottom off a gallon milk jug and, when a cold snap is in the forecast, place the jug over the plant. You can regulate the temperature somewhat by putting the cap on or taking it off. Just be sure to remove the cover on warm, sunny days to prevent turning your greenhouse into a sauna. 3.Flexible scoop. This simple scoop is fashioned from a half-gallon plastic milk jug. It's great for distributing fertilizer granules or potting soil in tight spaces. To craft it, make two horizontal cuts on the sides adjacent to the handle, and two forward-slanting diagonal cuts in the other sides. 4.Liquid fertilizer distribution system. Okay, the name might be a bit of a stretch, but this idea is a winner. Use plastic milk jugs to mix up liquid fertilizer, then punch a hole or two in the cap with a nail. Use your "system" to deliver a dose of plant food to even the smallest pots or plants. 5.Protection plus. If you use a cold frame to extend your growing season, line the inside with plastic milk jugs filled with water. The water be warmed by the sun, and will help reduce temperature swings inside the cold frame. The result: a lower chance of frost damage at night and overheating during the day.
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This is my first year winter sowing and I've had better luck finding milk jugs (DH - chemist - limits the plastic in our house) so that's mainly what I've used. The first batch I did, I cut like Dee. IMO, this maximizes the height that the sprouts can reach but the amount of dirt that can be added is limited by where you cut - or it'll fall out. The second batch, I cut about half way between the top and bottom of the handle, across the whole jug so the handle is the hinge. This manner improves the carrying ability of the container, as Nancy said, and the way I'll do all of the milk jugs now. Since I haven't done this before, I'm unable to see the big picture nor predict future issues. I am happy as a clam that the weather here has again cooled since my seeds are germinating!! I did panic but am going to let it go, since I didn't encourage these flowers to sprout yet and am leaving it up to Mother Nature:)
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Good suggestions. I don't cut my milk jug all the way around, leave a little hinge just under the handle. Then when I open them up, I peg them to the ground. If it gets cold again, it's easier to tape it shut again for late frosts and you probably don't have to tape it as thoroughly as initially. I save my containers and use them again, and the right kinds of tops are with the right jugs. What I'm wrestling with is that I decided I want to sow a lot of seeds in oversized cell packs. I have the trays that match but no holes in them. Anyway, I don't want to preset anything to hold plastic up and over them now, and the ground will be frozen when I set my jugs out in about Feb to poke anything down in. I've been looking around and the only thing I have to keep the plastic a couple inches off (or just an inch might be ok) the surface of the cell packs to keep from crushing the new growth would be some bricks, some old glass blocks. Can anybody think of what might work better that is easy/free/cheap? I think saran wrap would be too thin for those and have some clear plastic in a roll that is probably too heavy, maybe w/slits in it heavy would be ok. I can get something in between. The reason I want to sow in cell packs is for some of my seeds that resent transplanting to have a better chance and save me work later. I sometimes start in those trays you talked about w/covers (from McD's salads, KFC etc.) They work great. Sometimes I plant directly into the ground but some I like to transplant individually into cell packs so they can grow on, very tedious. Sowing directly into cell packs would save me that step. One trick I learned for spring sowing but should work equally well for winter sowing is to plant in the deli containers, then fill 16 oz plactic cups w/drainage holes punched in the bottom partway up with potting soil. Then use a spatula & dull knife and work a chunk of seedlings out of the tray and just set it on top of the soil, the roots will find it easy to work on down. Then I let grow on for awhile and plant with a bulb planter. That would work well for people whose gardens are crowded or whatever. I have to make things as easy on myself as possible or it won't all get done.
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Just to clarify too since sometimes there is some confusion regarding "potting soil". You want to use potting mix sometimes also called potting soil, but occasionally people get confused and just see "soil". You want a light container mix made of with peat moss, coir, or even bark fine mixes that will drain well. Actual soil (top soil, garden soil) does not typically work well with this method. Potting mixes can be difficult to thoroughly wet once in the container if they are bone dry to start with. If dry I usually put the mix in a large container and spray it with some water, mix it in and let it sit till the mix darkens and is just evenly moist, not wet. Then I overfill my containers and tamp it down well so it is more than 4" deep (it will compress more down to 4" or less when wetted). Then I thoroughly wet it either with spray or bottom watering until it can hold no more water, but drains freely. This is a good way to make sure your holes are a good size. Then sow the seeds and tamp down well, covering larger seeds with more mix as needed. Take note of the weight of the container and darkness of the mix, this will let you know when they need to be watered outside, which may be more often that many since I see you are zone 10. When they are heavy and on level ground wind is not as much of an issue. Bunching them together tightly is usually enough, but you can also tie handles together or to a sturdy object. I found tape to be quickly messy, instead I punched a couple of holes on the front-side and tied the jugs shut with twistie ties or pipe cleaners. That way I could open and close them easily and res-use them another year without messy tape residue. It also lets the seed breathe a little more which might be good a warm or damp climate. Jug placement regarding sun exposure also depends on your climate. In warm weather newly germinated seeds can get overheated quickly in a still sealed jug in full sun.
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mnwsgal
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Too many or too large holes can result in mix drying out quicker. This is why most don't use strawberry clear plastic containers. For milk jugs I started putting holes about an inch up the side on each side as found it helped both with drainage and with soaking up water from a pan when I watered. I wouldn't worry about structural damage from the jugs as mine become brittle and break apart after 2-3 years regardless of the number of holes. Picking the jug up and finding myself with just the handle was a bit of a surprise.

For the lasagna pans, which are flimsy to start, lots of holes might weaken them. Can't say as I don't use them.

When to start watering jugs depends on the weather. We had lots of rain last spring so I didn't have to water until late spring. When it is a dry spring I may have to water early and often. One way to tell if a container needs water is to lift it. A dry container will be very light compared to a moist container. Also, a moist container will have condensation on the sides.

Yes, I have had one water logged because I FORGOT to put drainage holes in during preparation. A few poked holes in the sides took care of the problem.

newbie's winter sowing containers milk jugs step by step illustra

Comments (3)

northforker

micki
Original Author

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newbie's winter sowing containers milk jugs step by step illustra

Comments (3)

northforker

mickiOriginal Author

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mnwsgal

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micki
Original Author