Tina, starting orchids from seed is an expensive undertaking. Think about the equipment you need, the materials, the flasking media, the replating media, the tools, flasks, pots, potting media, energy costs for heat and light, etc. And you need some know how. ThatÂs why the above posters all recommended you send the seed to professionals. But as expensive as it is, the seeds may or may not be viable, you never really know. And if they have not been properly stored since you received them... In the best cases, it takes a number of years from seed to pot plants. And the yield is never guaranteed. You could sow thousands of seeds and only get a dozen plants total. Or none, as things often do go wrong  many seeds in flask never germinate or mould makes its way into the flask. ThatÂs why starting orchids from seed has to be such a selective process. And why the person who told you there were no plants might not have been scamming you. Scattering seed among the roots is a really haphazard way of starting orchids from seeds. The odds are miniscule. And this is when the seed is scattered among the roots of its pod parent (aka Mommy). Orchid seed are different from that of other plants in that they do not carry any protein structures. To germinate and grow, they NEED a SPECIFIC fungus that will provide them with the energy needed. I have not heard of experiments with scattering seed among other orchids. If you have orchids of the same genus and genera as your seeds, there might be a chance. If you donÂt Best of luck, with your orchid seeds and the job hunt. Julie

Jim, That is a fantastic idea, but if that doesn't work out, a regular old mesh strainer will work. I have used one with a looser rather than tighter mesh. It was doable but a fair bit of work. You have to mash the berries around with a spoon until the pulp gets squished out of the mesh and the seeds are left above. I wouldn't try to use a fancy double mesh strainer as that would really be too much work. Make sure the berries are completely thawed when you start. Another option is the strainer attachment for a kitchenaid stand mixer if you happen to have one. The holes are big enough for some of the seed to get through, but it gets out enough to make me happy. Melly

I just wanted to let people know that you can get free mailing supplies for priority shipping. I ship my plants priority and get my boxes, tape and now mailing labels free from the post office. I am now having them ship to my home. This is free of charge!!! The phone number is 1-800-222-1811. Tell them you want #4 and #7 boxes (they come in groups of 25) also ask for rolls of tape and address labels. They will send you this for free. You can get the order form from your postoffice if you want to see what else they have. I have also shipped plants in the smaller boxes if they were small and that worked fine. I know most people send priority so why not get the mailing supplies for free and decrease your costs? You can also order all of this online at http://supplies.usps.gov/

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"