Super Quick Draining Soil Mix
bronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years ago
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kaboehm (zone 9a, TX USA)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
cactus soil won't drain!
Comments (10)First, that a bag might be labeled 'Cactus Soil' is no clear indication what's inside the bag is appropriate for cacti. Soils with a significant fraction of peat that don't also contain a surfactant (wetting agent) can be expected to start becoming hydrophobic as moisture content approaches about 30%, and grow continually more hydrophobic as moisture content declines. That can be fixed to a significant degree by adding internally porous materials that don't exhibit hydrophobic tendencies, even when the soil is completely dry. Two materials that fit this description are calcined (fired at high temps) clays and DE (diatomaceous earth). Even in a completely dry soil, calcined clay, like Turface, and calcined DE absorb water on contact. The water can then diffuse throughout the remainder of the soil volume, 'breaking' the hydrophobic tendencies of dry peat and bark. If you water as described, then wait several minutes (10-15) before watering again, the soil will readily absorb the second application. These materials The larger, internally porous particles) need to be in the soil at above threshold levels, though. That means there can't be a high enough volume of peat in the soil to fill all the air spaces between the larger particles of calcined clay or DE. To a significant degree, your soil will determine what kind of opportunity you'll be able to offer your plants to reach their genetic potential. It plays a big part in your ability to put a good fertilizer supplementation program in play, in your ability to water correctly, and in how much margin for error you have in watering and fertilizing. In short, you can choose a soil you'll forever battle for control of your plant's vitality, or you can choose one that works FOR you, providing the strong foundation your container plantings need. No matter how you look at it, a healthy plant is impossible w/o a healthy root system, and the soil is the foundation of every conventional container planting. Getting it right pays big dividends. Soils that hold as little water as possible between soil particles and as much as possible inside of particles are much easier to grow and keep plants healthy in. The information at the link provided below probably represents the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. What I use for cacti, succulents, houseplants, and all my woody plant material: Al Here is a link that might be useful: Much more about soils if you click me....See MoreProfessor Tapla's Super Duper Container Soil -- Modified
Comments (22)I think Steve's question is still 'on topic' enough not to be a hijack, but I hope CA's ok w/it. ". . . can I retrofit a wick into a container by inserting it into a bottom hole of the container with a narrow dowel?" Yes - or a straight slotted screwdriver with the wick folded over the tip. Allow the wick to dangle a couple of inches below the pot or allow it to remain in contact with the soil so the earth can act as a giant wick. Use the wick as your indicator. When it is still wet - withhold water . . . dry - water. Also, tilting the container during prolonged periods of rain can substantially reduce the volume of soil that retains water, thus reducing the volume of water in the PWT. "With the tree already in distress would it be better to go ahead and repot it now with a better draining mix instead of waiting for dormancy." This is a complicated question. There is a difference between repotting and potting up. Deciduous trees should not be repotted when in leaf, but potting up is fine. The problem with simply potting up into a soil with better aeration is found in the fact that dissimilar soils in the same container should always be avoided. I would unpot the plant & examine the roots. If they are still healthy and not sour or rotten-smelling, I would set the plant on newspapers over night & allow it to dry down. Repot into the same container with a wick and be careful about how you water. Repot into a free draining soil in early spring. If there are advancing root issues, you should remove the soil & prune roots back to healthy tissue. This always carries with it the risk of losing the tree, but advancing root rot guarantees it. If there is a radical reduction in rootage required, you'll need to reduce the canopy, too. (Before anyone reminds me that I'm not following the new thinking on not reducing the canopy of transplants commensurately with root reduction - I'm aware of it, but it does not apply to bare-rooted deciduous trees in leaf - as in this case.) ;o) At any rate - if there are rotted roots to contend with, let's cross that bridge when we get to it. Al...See MoreSoil temps of containers with Soil, Perlite and Gritty Mix
Comments (21)Those temps are bad kms2! I have noticed some of my trees in black pots and gritty mix feel like they are baking! Yes, Plumerias grow in the tropics and it's hot BUT they are in the ground. Their roots are cool. Their heads can take full sun all day long but they like their roots cool. Also in most of the tropics there are breezes that help to keep leaf and temps down. I have grown them both ways for years, there isn't a doubt in my mind, they do better planted in the ground. However, let me say this... if they are young, small trees or rooted cuttings, I suggest leaving them in pots until they get bigger and have a well developed root system if you have to move them inside in the winter. In.South Florida or the Keys, put them in the ground and leave them alone and watch them take off. I have a Lutea that was being a real pain. It's a tall and skinny ugly stick that was that way when it was sent to me and it has never bloomed. After I took it out of the ground last October and wintered it in a pot in the garage, this spring I could not get it to do anything. No claws, then claws, claws would shrivel up. I repotted it in gritty along with all the others. couple of months later, still no leaves. I took it out of the mix, a couple 1" tiny brown roots. I was over it. I stuck it in the ground by some that are in pots and told it to root or die, I didn't care which it did. It sat there doing nothing for a couple of weeks and I waited to see if it rotted. Suddenly it took off, leaves all over the place, which means it also is rooting. I gave it some Root Excelerator to help the roots keep growing. No heat mat needed, The ground provides heat without the stress of wild temp swings which occur in pots. I believe bigger trees need to be in the ground and do far better by planting them in the spring, lifting them in the fall if you must due to freezes. Put them in a pot with the soil they were in while planted, put them in garage, greenhouse, whatever you use and leave them alone until spring. On warm days you can mist or give a cup or so of water, but keep them dry. Each year they will get much bigger than they would in pots. I have white plastic trash bags around some of mine in pots that get morning to early afternoon sun at a brutal angle. The heat of those black pots filled with gritty is insane down here in FL. The white bags reflect the heat and make a huge difference! We have had so much rain, day after day, LOTS of rain. I have about 100 in Al's mix and have yet to have 1 rot. In fact I have never seen such explosive root growth and such healthy roots on potted plumies. They are coming out of the bottom, all over the top, even ones that were just rooted in April have filled 1 gallon pots and are read to move up. Roots seem to love the gritty mix but you do need to get those temps down on the pots or the roots near the pots outer sides fry and turn brown. It's easy to test this. Put one where it gets sun, don't turn it. Take it out in a couple of weeks and check. All the roots on the inside that faces the sun will be in bad shape, the ones on the backside, perfect. Once I discovered this I moved most of them so the angle of the sun wasn't as bad, the others that get that intense angle from 9 Am to 2 pm I wrapped with white plastic to reflect the heat. It works,leave the bags loose so the black pot doesn't show through if the bags are thin. My trees look great, growing well, not many blooms yet. They are recuperating from the moves and repots I imagine. I may get mostly roots and growth this year but that's ok. With healthy plants and a big healthy root system, the booms will come in time. My Kapalua has an inflo. Hopefully all this rain won't cause the buds to drop off....See MoreCrape myrtles and super-wet clay soil?
Comments (7)I planted a 10 gallon yaupon holly when I was about 6 months pregnant. I talked my husband into getting it for me for Valentine's and he was probably kidding, but he told me to dig the hole. So, I dug the hole and also planted the stupid thing. My back was so sore for days even though I was very careful about only rolling it into place, not lifting, etc. But, I just had to have that holly! Now back to the subject discussed here . . . I know that most trees, including crape myrtles appreciate well drained soil. Crape myrtles probably will not survive in the same water logged conditions. See if you (well not you since you're 6 months pregnant) but rather someone else (maybe your husband?) can correct the drainage problem so the water runs away from your house and doesn't pool in those locations. This might mean bringing in top soil or even hiring someone to put in some sort of draining system (French drains, sub-pumps, etc.) depending on how bad it is. It also sounds like they tried amending the soil where the trees were planted instead of planting them in the native soil - a big no, no that most here will tell you because it will cause the roots to grow only in the area where the nutrients are located and will girdle the tree, killing it. Definitely correct the drainage problem before trying to plant anything else. If you don't correct the drainage, it will only be a waste of money trying to plant another tree in the same spot....See Morehippeastrumadmirer
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodondeldux z6b South Shore Massachusetts
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agokaboehm (zone 9a, TX USA)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agokaboehm (zone 9a, TX USA)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agobronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agokaboehm (zone 9a, TX USA)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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