There are really no "green" peppers. They all turn some other color when mature, or "ripe". As far as I can tell, they all eventually turn red. Some go from green to red, yellow, gold, orange, purple, and some other colors I have not grown yet. I am growing this year for the first time, a "sweet chocolate" that is supposed to be, or turn brown. I would bet it eventually turns red, sometime before it rots. Some peppers start out yellow, purple, orange, or some color other than green. But, all I have ever grown also always end up red, if you wait long enough. My all-time best producer has to be Brigadier, a green to red variety. This is the one I pick to use early in the summer if I want a green pepper, just because they are so productive, and among the ripe peppers, I prefer the gold and yellow ones to red and purple ones, as yellows seem sweeter to me. Jupitor is another good green to red. My favorite yellow peppers have been Gold Standard and Early Sunsation. Golden Calwonder is supposed to be good also, and I bought some seed for it to use this year if I needed it. I did not, but will use some next year. Ariane is a great orange pepper. Purple Beauty is a good dark purple one, and Tequila is a good lilac color. The only pepper I have tried that I did not like was called "Orange Sun". They started green, and by the time they turned orange outside, they were turning black inside.

Heck, I have it filling about an 18 X 4' area of CONCRETE. It grows out of a half-inch crack where I jammed a stem of it some months ago; I stuck some good soil in after it and since then it has survived on canine effluence and air plus runoff from my other plants. Inexplicably, one I had in a pot formed several tubers and inside the tubers (one broke when I pulle it out of the pot) was WHITE. So you have a black-purple leaf and a white tuber. But it does not die (at least in Zone 9.)

greenjewels...I look forward to seeing what you think of the quality from that site. I have 4 feet above my kitchen cabinets and will be doing a special project that will need some plants. I have looked at that site many times before and plan on ordering from there too. Best of luck to you. ================================================= Here is an article on cleaning plants. I know you can even hire companies to come into your home and clean your artificial plants...I may need to do that some day. :-) ================================================= Silk plants are an attractive accessory, but only if they are kept clean and dust-free. Silk plant maintenance is simple since they do not need the sun, water and fertilizers real plants require, but cleaning must be done regularly to keep the plants crisp and pretty. Basic dusting is the most important part of silk plant care. Use either a feather duster or a lambs wool duster to brush the loose dust and dirt off of your plantÂs stems and leaves on a regular basis. Periodically, use a soft brush attachment with your vacuum to collect heavier deposits of dirt or cobwebs. Once or twice a year, your plants may require heavier cleaning to maintain their beauty. Before you clean them, you should still remove the dust first so the application of water or cleaner will not turn the layer of dust to mud. Remember that each silk plant is unique since different types of silk and dyes may be used, and you should test your cleaning solutions on each plant in a hidden area. Always check the care label on your plants since some silks should not ever get wet. Several manufacturers sell silk plant cleaning sprays, and these generally do a good job when carefully applied to your plant. However, several less expensive cleaning methods work just as well. The first thing to try is plain tap water. Isolate one leaf or petal and run tap water over it gently. Shake it out. If the surface looks glossy and clean, you should be able to use water to clean the whole plant. Place the plant in a sink, outdoors or on any water-friendly surface. Gently spray water from a faucet or pour water from a large cup, washing each part of the plant without saturating it. Make sure whatever the plant is resting in is water resistant as well. Spanish moss will dry if it is washed along with the plant, but crumpled paper should be removed before you clean the plant. Once you are done washing the plant, shake it gently to remove any excess water and fluff and arrange the leaves. Set it in a sunny spot to dry more quickly. When it is completely dry, it should be as good as new. If you do not have a place you can pour water over the plant, spray water gently on the leaves and wipe them dry with a soft towel or cloth. For extremely dirty plants or plants with stains, add either a small amount of dishwashing liquid or white vinegar to your water solution. Spray the plant with this solution, then gently wipe with a soft cloth. Follow up with a spray of clean rinse water. Soap residue will attract dust and dirt quickly, so make sure the plant is well-rinsed. For a stain or problem area, apply the dishwashing or vinegar solution with a soft toothbrush, gently agitating the spot. Stronger cleaners are likely to damage the silk, so simply spend more time with the gentle cleansers on stubborn stains.

What a great opportunity to grow something that would not do so well in your soil. A tall growing Grevillea eg Grevillea "Moonlight" or any of the very showy Grevilleas which flower for a long time, or the taller Leptospermums (Tea tree) or a Banksia eg Banksia coccinea which is not easy in the ground. I would also check out Kevin Handrek's book 'Gardening Down Under' published by the CSIRO as he has a few things to say about potting mixes in very large containers.