I've been trying to determine what was wrong with this Crassula tetragona since May. Had suggestions for drainage, potting mix, sunburn, etc., but not one person suspected pests. I never could upload the photo to this post in June, but there is a later photo of the damage in a post titled "What's the funk on my Crassula tetragona" in the cacti forum. Mites aren't visible. I couldn't see them even with a magnifying glass. I needed the macro lens of my "real" camera, then I had to enlarge the image. It begins as yellowing of leaves for no apparent reason. Old leaves are mostly affected, but newer leaves sometimes also. Leaves drop. Some shrivel. People mistake it for over-watering, poor drainage, sunburn, etc. As it progresses, leaves look textured with tiny indentations about pin pricked size. Leaf surfaces get what looks like a brown or black coating, stain, or discoloring. Plants continue to grow and produce more leaves and branches, but eventually only those newest leaves remain healthy. That's where my plants are now. I can save them, but it'll be a huge setback. Worse, they've been in contact with all my other plants, shared a water bucket, etc., so I'll be treating a lot of plants. Hopefully, this mite doesn't thrive so well on other plants.

I make sure to use water that has sat out overnight to water my plants. Does that not make a difference? Or not enough of a difference? You already learned that the crystalline structures on the leaves of your plant is composed of dissolved solids (sugar and mineral salts) left behind as the water in the exudate associated with the guttation (primarily driven by over-watering) evaporates. If you allow your water to rest overnight in an open pan, some of the water in the pan evaporates, but ALL of the dissolved solids in the water are left behind, So technically, the concentration of dissolved solids in the water (which includes fluoride, and chloramine, used now to chlorinate most tapwater) would be slightly higher than water straight from the tap. The pH of water straight from the tap is also slightly lower than water that has rested for a period of time, due to dissolved CO2 gassing off. Also yes, can you point me in the direction of drain hole tutorials?? I'm guessing you mean how to drill the holes? This should help: Drilling holes in pots The 2 types of drill bits most appropriate for drilling holes in pots are a diamond core drill for the highly vitrified (hard material - baked at very high temps - glass, ceramic, ......) pots, and a drill with several names for drilling clay pots fired at low temps, such as terra cotta. That (carbide) drill is called a 3-point drill, spear point drill, or a spade drill, seen here: You only need 1 - in 1/2 or 3/8" size. For the hard stuff, diamond core drills are best, though the 3 point drill will drill the hard stuff, too. Diamond core drills: You can buy either type at big box stores. They're not that expensive, and they last a long time if you take care of them. They are best used with a steady stream of coolant from a squeeze bottle (contact lens solution bottles work great for this) or with the work surface barely submerged. IE, put the pot upside down in a tub and fill the tub with water until it just covers the work surface. If you use a spritzer or squirt bottle, a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is an excellent coolant, and soapy water is better than plain water but not as good as the antifreeze mix. The coolant keeps the tool from over-heating, and in doing so, increases the life of the tool substantially - like triple or quadruple the number of holes you can drill. Regular masonry bits are "ok" for drilling terra cotta or cement (you can make them work), but inappropriate for anything harder. The right tool makes everything easier. And lastly, should I be flushing all my plants (pothos, croton, aloe, snake plant...) when I water? One way or another - YES, absolutely. Ideally, your choice of soil should allow you to water to beyond the point of saturation, so you're flushing the soil as you water. If you can't do that w/o worry that the soil will remain soggy for a prolonged period, limiting root function, or worse, wrecking root health it would be best to consider learning how to amend the soil you're using or make a soil that allows you to flush the soil regularly. There are also a few very simple work-arounds that will allow you to use a soil that would otherwise be inappropriate. For example - if you're using a soil too water-retentive for a plant's well-being, and you need to flush it - you can flush thoroughly over a sink or tub or outdoors. When the pot stops draining, hold it in your hand(s) and move it up and down. You'll note that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, Newton's First Law of Motion takes over and some of the excess water in the pot exits through the drain hole. As the amount of water diminishes, more can be forced from the soil by reversing directions more forcibly. As long as your pot is of a manageable size, this simple trick is invaluable for anyone using an excessively water-retentive soil. If the pot is too large, you can use a wick to drain excess water, or even tipping the pot at a 45* angle to drain makes a very significant difference in how much excess water a medium can hold. Compare B with A to see how much excess water the simple act of tipping the pot forces from the pot. E shows what a wick, used correctly for best benefit, can achieve. D shows one way of using ballast to reduce excess water. Even when using extremely water retentive soils, ballast can reduce the amount of excess water a soil can hold to less than 5% of what it would hold w/o use of ballast. Al

Not sunburn. The lower leaves are yellow from overwatering, and the divots could be old damage, pest damage, et cetera. The more pressing issue is what looks to be a very moisture-retentive soil. I would re-pot into something with much more perlite and other grit (no sand). Josh

Thanks for inquiring Marguerite! Well, it's been a struggle... The large piece finally seems to have rooted and drank some water, it hasn't gown at all and it lost a couple bottom leaves. I added the fine sand as there were roots poking out. There was a tiny little variegated piece, it shriveled and died. A couple months ago there was a tiny solid green jade cutting that needed a home, so I stuck it in. I just started to use weak dosage of Foliage Pro, so hopefully it will put out new growth soon. Nancy