Fungus Gnats are driving me nuts !!!!
bronxfigs: New York City/7b
12 years ago
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joshy46013
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Remedy for Fungus Gnats in Palm's Soil
Comments (16)If the post was current, I'd say: #1 suggestion would be to stop using any household cleaner (dishsoap) as a way to clean leaves or in an insecticidal capacity. See something I wrote about it below. BTW, disregard any argument that goes something like "I've been doing it for years and have noticed no adverse effects ......". The fact is, it destroys cuticular wax, and if it gets to the roots, root lipid membranes. So, it prevents or limits roots from taking up water/nutrients, and destroys the mechanism by which plants limit water loss from their foliage and protect against insects and entry of pathogens. If you need a product to clean leaves or to use as an insecticide, insecticidal soaps are made from long chain fatty acids, formulated to be safe for most plants, though there are a few plants sensitive even to insecticidal soaps. A mix of 70% isopropyl/rubbing alcohol and water at 1:1 or 2:1 (2 water: 1 alcohol) if all you need for mites. Spritz the plant thoroughly at 4 day intervals, making sure you coat the entire surface of the plant, including inferior leaf surfaces and and leaf axils where they tend ti hide in the dark. A change in watering habits or a change in your grow medium are usually all you need to be rid of gnats. Unless your pot is 5" deep or less, avoid the advice to water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry. It's a recipe for over-watering and the very idea is enough to make a gnat's eyes spin in anticipation of the orgiastic frenzy induced by media the surface of which provides a never ending supply of wet/rotting organic matter. This should be helpful, as would be changing to a highly aerated medium, the surface of which dries quickly, and using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. Detergents Dishsoap/ detergent’s effect on plants varies with the mode of exposure. Dawn, Palmolive, Joy, ...... dishsoap, as an example, are each and all a mishmash of chemicals, at least eleven of which are phytotoxic. If the top of the plant is sprayed thoroughly with even mild detergent solutions such that all surfaces including leaves are covered, the detergent can easily dissolve the protective coating of cuticular wax on the leaves of the plant, causing abnormally high rates of water loss and possible necrosis of all or part of the leaf. Cuticular waxes prevent leaves from drying out, and help stop pathogens from attacking the leaf. Strong solutions will even dissolve cell membranes, causing death of the cells. If a detergent solution is used as a soil drench or makes its way into the soil as a consequence of over-spray or run-off, the effect on roots is immediate. Because one of the main function of roots is to absorb water and nutrients dissolved in water, they lack the waxy protective coating that leaves employ. Detergent solution in contact with root cells can quickly dissolve the lipid membrane surrounding cells, killing the cells and inhibiting water/ nutrient uptake. Hair cells growing as appendages off larger roots do the lion’s share of assimilating water and nutrients, and these very delicate cells would be the first casualty of any detergent in the root zone. There are widely available insecticidal soaps, designed to be used topically and made mixing potassium with only long chain fatty acids, carefully selected and specifically formulated to be safe for mammals & birds, death on most insects they contact, and most important, safe for plants. If you need something "soapy", it would be much better if you selected a product intended for use on plants than one intended for other purposes. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. What I use for grow media: Al...See MoreBala driving me nuts!!!
Comments (7)Don't blame yourself. I just got rid of three in the 5-8 inch range I acquired from a person leaving town (and his aquarium) --and they wouldn't even EAT in my presence. (But they nibbled my plantlets down to the substrate every night, arrgh!). The larger 2 would occasionally slam to the top for no apparent reason and splash water all over if I had the top open, and the smallest already both eyes damaged, probably from just such antics. Eventually I found that if I filled the tank all the way to almost touching the top, they would still swim up and splash water (the previous owner had cats!)(?) -but wouldn't try to jump. I miss 'em ... but the tank was(is) only 37 gallon, and they were forever butting/rubbing noses against the glass unless I turned their lights off. I also eventually discovered they _would_ voraciously eat scraps/gristle on chicken bones, as ALL of my various fish now do. I had been adding half a 500mg Oyster-Shell Calcium tab to each tank every few weeks, but maybe that wasn't enough: My Plecos and Algae-Eaters can't get enough of chewing on the ends of the bones left behind when my other fish finish with them....See MoreFungus gnats!
Comments (17)Pop cans may or may not cause water to perch higher in containers, depending on how the soil is situated relative to the pop cans. If you used something as a barrier, like screen/cloth/paper, it's probable that it DID raise the location of the PWT. Josh was exactly right when he said that perlite won't do much to change the ht of the PWT and it won't much affect the flow through rates. What it DOES do is reduce water retention, but that is not enough. It's the perched water that kills. The water in the layer of soggy soil at the bottom of most containers when using soils with significant fractions of peat, compost, coir, topsoil, sand, or any other very fine particulates. The height of the PWT is directly related to particle size, and no matter how much growers using these soils want you to believe otherwise, they ARE dealing with the effects of PWTs and their trappings - over-watering and/or accumulating salts. In order to be free of the negative effects of perched water, you need to have a soil that has a very large % of its volume comprised of particles >1/10 - 1/8". You cannot be rid of the effects of perched water by amending peat/coir/compost/sand/topsoil-based soils. As an illustration: If you start with a quart of pudding, how much perlite do you need to add to get it to drain properly and hold some air? Even 60% perlite isn't going to do it. Only when you start to approach the perlite fraction of 80%+ do you start to see a little better drainage and SOME aeration. If you mix pine bark & peat 50-50, you get a soil with the drainage (flow through rates) and aeration of peat. FWIW - gnats don't dislike fresh circulating air. They live by the billions outdoors in their natural habitat. Indoors is actually foreign and unfamiliar territory for them. They simply love wet soils with a high organic fraction that breaks down easily, and organic fertilizers like various meals and fish emulsion MUST be an aphrodisiac because they multiply like crazzzy with the combination of wet soil/organic fertilizer. A little about container size from one of my other posts: How large a container "can" or "should" be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. Plants grown in 'slow' (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to 'run' and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration that the oft repeated advice to "only pot up one size at a time", only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. ******************************************************** Shallow containers are the most difficult of all to grow in because if your soil holds 2-3" of perched water it will be 100% saturated after a thorough watering or rain shower. These pictures show cacti & succulents growing happily in less than 2" of soil (gritty mix) in clay saucers. They can sit outdoors in these shallow containers during a week of clouds & rain & not rot - no perched water .......... Al...See Moregetting rid of gnats
Comments (23)I'm having the same problems with the gnats from the drains! We have the aerobic septic system with the bacteria in it so I can't put many things down the drains unless it's septic safe. We do use a mixture of vinegar and yellow dish detergent that attacks and kills them but I need something that will stop them from coming out of the drains. Any suggestions that will help that is septic system safe?? Thanks!...See Morehaweha
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