Actually, prechilling daffodils does work. I've had success with Jenny, White Lion, and King Alfred. They need about 12 weeks of chilling at 35-45F (some varieties may need more -- do a search on the web for "daffodil forcing" to see if you can find the chilling times). After they're chilled, you can plant them in the containers and put them somewhere cool to root; 60F should be fine. Bring them into a cool sunny place when the shoots are about 1" long. This will work for tulips as well, but most varieties require more like 14-16 weeks of chilling. For absolutely best results with tulips, you should follow the temperatures and times listed in the "Holland Bulb Forcer's Guide", which is to store the bulbs at around 80-90% RH at 63F in August and Sept, 55F in September, and then 12-13 weeks at 41F, and at 55F during rooting in the container. I've found that 5 degree variances don't really affect the final results much, especially if you use 12+ bulbs instead of 10/11 or 11/12. Also, the book suggests that you remove the tunic (skin) from the bulb before planting to allow for "rapid root emergence after planting."

Hi grizzman, At about 6 weeks a seedling will have 4 true leaves & be ready to transplant; it can have 2 - 3 stems. Prune seedling to only 2 stems (in a Bell pepper these can then grow to over 12 feet or 4 mt., if supported). Allow the plant it's vegetative development & see explanation (farther below) on pruning side shoots, once they develop. To shift vegetative growth into mature fruit productivity (later on) pruning will essentially be an ongoing tactic, done 2 times a month. This keeps pepper plant from yielding in flushes & relapsing into vegetative growth. No reduction in adult plant fertilizer Nitrogen & no increase in Phosphorus is used; a large plant needs it's N & extra P can cause problems that impact on yield. When the plant begins to put off side branches from main stem nodes it is time to begin pruning vegetative growth. Each node on the 2 stems of the pepper plant gets all it's "excess" leaves pruned off it, so that just a single (1) leaf remains at each of it's nodes (ie: main stems have 1 leaf at every node). Later on, when plant is about 4 months old from seed ( & after some leaf pruning on the side branches, which is explained shortly) you can let a 2nd leaf grow out at each node on the main stems (ie: 2nd leaf/node by then will not push plant back into vegetative mode). The plant will likely be fruiting at this age ( when keep 2nd leaf/node) & needs more photosynthesis to bulk up the fruit. You want to take plant into fruiting mode progressively & have those hormonal signals stabilize. Since you are trying to control the plant there is some strategic early flower pruning, to get fruit set occurring how you want it synchronized to lock in that hormonal shift. In the crotch, or fork between your 2 stems, pinch off that flower. Likewise, going up each stem you pinch off the flower (if any) at the 1st node above the fork. What you want is to stagger the first 2 peppers on each stem & allow the plant to definitively transition into a continuous (not flushes) fruiting cycle. The plant is made to "work" to replace the lost flowers & this helps condition that response. It is not a question of giving it more time for vegetative/root development to make a better plant; it is a tactical sacrifice that means more total productivity. So, after pruning the 1st flower that develops above the fork, let the next higher flower grow & set fruit on the 2nd node of each of both main stems. Then, get rid of (prune) the flower at the 3rd node of each stem. At the 4th node on each stem you stop pruning away any more of the main stems' flowers. (If your plant suffers an "accident" & loses it's lowest flowers then just start the pruning sequence of no flower/yes flower/no flower/yes all subsequent flowers where you can on each stem.) Returning now to keeping vegetative growth under control. The plant will put off side branches at each of the nodes, on both main stems, for as long as it is growing. These are to be controlled, as they develop at any age, to avoid pepper plant getting bushy.( Yet keeping some minimal leaf growth for photosynthesis & preventing the sun burning the pepper fruit.) As a side branch develops (when it starts is not important) it is is important that each side branch is dealt with before it's vegetative growth begins to send growth hormone signals. And, please do not confuse a side branch tip with the tip of a main step (do not cut off either main stem apex or plant will only be bushy.) On each of the growing side branches (not main stem,now) you want a leaf to develop at it's (the side branch's) very own 1st node. Once you see a leaf point of growth, prune the side branch back to it's 1st node (ie: side branches get to stay & keep a leaf at a node, but can not have a 2nd node for their own continued bushy growth). The only thing to add (about side branch technique) is, that about 4 weeks after you have pruned a side branch back to it's 1st node (& left it with just 1 leaf) it is good to let a 2nd leaf come out & remain (on each side branch). By originally holding down the number of side branch leaves to only 1 it keeps the vegetative cycle from resuming. After a while there is no side branch vegetative hormonal signal when you allow the 2nd (& no more) leaf at it's first & only node. It is preferable to have that extra photosynthetic capacity & the leaf cover for a pepper crop that is commercially planted at the density of 1 pepper/ 3.5 square feet (1 pepper/ 0.33 square meter). One final look at the main stem (only): you pruned it to 1 leaf/node ( when got side branching), let it have 2 leaves/node (at +/- 4 months old, fruit growing). If a plant is getting a lot of sun (or peppers are planted far apart) you should let a maximum 3rd leaf at each node on both the main stems develop; it will protect the fruit & deal with factors stressing the plant (this last leaf is not required for photosynthesis capacity, but those side branch leaves are).

Ken, I've forced hostas in the past. I don't think it is particularly good for the plant, but my reason and I think the best reason, was to breed late season and early season bloomers. I usually buy separate potted plants specifically for this purpose. I did it three years in a row and was able to move up the flowering times of One Man's Treasure, Harry van de Laar, Red October, Cranberry Wine and about a half a dozen others, so that I could use them both ways with earlier bloomers. I know Don Dean and some others have done it in the past as well and I'm just following their lead. I haven't done it the last two years because the late/early seedlings have been moved up to a point where the seeds mature before first frost and I have a bunch of red pet stuff blooming in late July and August. The humidity that you mentioned does not seem to be a big problem, but they do come out being a bit "soft" and need a bit of hardening off before going outside in the Spring. In my experience, they go down at the normal time in the Fall. I had lights going 24/7 in my seed growing room so when I brought them inside they were were put under these. If you decide to try it don't water them until you see green shoots coming up, which actually takes a painfully long time when you are waiting for them :) usually a few weeks. Good luck! Dan This post was edited by dansgrdn on Fri, Oct 17, 14 at 1:53

Hey Brian, YOU ARE NOT A BAD PLUMERIA OWNER!!!! You are just a cautious one!!! : ) When you talk of it being cold there..what are the lows in your area for this time of year? I have my trees outside now and im on the east coast. Does your tree see sunshine during the day outside? You will finally understand how to take care of your tree... it really is easy, most of us that "mother hen" over our trees are the ones that usually kill them with kindness. we have all been there and believe me i still look over my trees everyday, sometimes more than once... but i usually keep my hands off of them. You have been careful to keep your tree from receiving to much water. That is usually the right path as far as keeping them on the dry side but only after they are watered well beforehand. It can be very confusing when we read of all the ways we keep them winterized...some bareroot, some place in a back room (Myself included) that is for space purposes only. SOme keep them in the living area of their homes and let the leaves fall off naturally. Barerooting and bagging trees is one way that some put up there trees for the winter. I personally don't do that and i have heard several people here on the east coast that they dont like the outcome. People in Texas swear by this method. I think it really depends on where you live. You are in an area that you can leave your trees outside most of the time. Hopefully some of the other members in your area will chime in and give you some advise on how they protect their trees. I believe most would bring them in around the lows of 45 and below or would put frost cloth on them to protect. Again, my friends from Southern Cal will hopefully help you... I would try and start to acclimate your tree to being outside full time now and let your soil dry out. Watch to see if the stem firms up and then you can go from there. What kind of soil is it in now? Orange County Farm Supply sells all what you need to make a good soil. We have disscussed different soil mixtures here on this forum and it is a fun discussion on what everyone likes to use. You have access to Pumice out there and Kellogs Big R as well as Turf and Tee. We here on the east cant find those ingredients so i have found a different type of mix that i like to use. My mix consist of Turface FirBark and Granite and it is a very fast draining mix. You want your tree to be in a fast draining mix for the overall health of the roots. If it is in a hard compacted soil that stays wet for a long time, i would go ahead and change the soil, rootprune and then understand how to water so that your tree will benefit from the intake of water as well as the proper nutrients that it needs to thrive. You have done the right thing in asking questions...dont worry about doing the wrong thing..You are doing the best that you can and it will only get better from here on!!! : ) As far as pictures, you may need to open a Photobucket account. Upload your pictures to this. Then use the hotmail code from those pictures to copy and paste onto this thread. If you need more info on how to do this just ask. We have all been there just like you!!! Glad you are here Brian!! Im sure your tree is happy that you are here as well! Good LUCK!! lAURA