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Ok having a brain fart. When to stop fertilizing plants

13 years ago

I just can not remember to save my life when to stop feeding the plants in Zone 5. So can anyone help me. I thought it was July. thanks for any help you can be of. I really appreciate it.

Paula

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Comments (5)

tiffy_z5_6_can
13 years ago
The only 'fertilizer' I use is organic bone meal and I keep using until the end of August. Now I don't 'fertilize' my plants as others might. All I use is this bone meal, homemade compost, and a shredded leaf mulch. The compost is placed at any time of year as are the shredded leaves. In essence, no MG or such materials. With natural materials you can do things whenever the time is available. It feeds the soil which in time will feed the plant. :O)
gardenweed_z6a
13 years ago
I don't fertilize perennials--just veggies & annuals. I only feed with seaweed extract & worm castings. The one exception is hydrangea--I feed those MG acid fertilizer. Perennials are on their own to get what nutrients they need from the soil. I dump wood ashes on some--clematis, peonies, lilac--in January so the snow & rain can carry the nitrogen (?) down into the soil. Most native plants should adapt well to the soil in the garden without supplemental nutrients if their light & moisture needs are met.
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Gardengal, I'm not going to re-read all the material that I might have spoken about....I don't believe I ever suggested other methods don't work....or cant be used. I just pointed out that for the vast majority of houseplant growers, this method of leaching on a regular basis is not according to how the majority treats their plants. I contend it is not good soil practices to water...in the way that was described, every day. Plants need nourishment....however given. By watering in usuch manner as described, I suggest the plant is not receiving any nourishment. It would be like the comparison...albeit unusual...that the person sitting down to a meal and after the smell has permeated the nostril, the meal is taken away and replaced with another to repeat the same thing, over and over and over. How much of our bodies would last very long? I suggest plants are no different. If as suggested, the number of plants so testified to, do indeed thrive in the manner described, then I don't have much to suggest otherwise. All I said was I didn't believe such method was good for a plant. I don't think I'm in the minority. As far as hydroponics, I am well aware of that method and other methods to promote plants. I don't use such --but there are many a pot-filled houses that give evidence it is being carried out widespread. In Ontario...its against the law to sell a home that has been used as a gro-op in this regard without informing the buyer as to its former use. Seems, this method of bringing up plants leaves a definite aroma to the walls that doesn't easily leave. That's a bit off track I know....hydroponics was mentioned so I felt a little levity was called for. I am totally for experiencing other ways of doing things. If it is for some....not for others...including me....I don't find it degrading anybody who feels compelled to try it. I invited discussion....pro and con....that is all I intended and suggesting otherwise is looking for off topic disrespect.
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We don't have EAB here yet, but we do have what are called lilac/ash borers. We have Phaenops gentilis, Chrysophana placida and Agrilus cyanescens. Many non native trees do need help here, but you don't know specifically what to add without a soil test. Unfortunately, they are not free here, but the cost is nominal, maybe $25-30 depending on what you're testing for. I would take soil samples from areas where you haven't fertilized. I just don't see wasting money on additives until you know what's missing from your soil, or what nutrients you already have enough of. I would also be extremely careful with fertilizing right now as we are in severe drought status. If you feel like you need to fertilize before you have soil test results, maybe do half strength. Any problems you're seeing now are most likely drought related as we've had virtually no rain, horrific winds and weeks in the high 90 - 100+ degree temps. We have a 50% chance of rain this weekend, which would certainly help. We've had roughly 4.5" of precip. so far this year. Your soil ph is most likely in the 7 range, as mine is 7.9. I have a Patmore ash, fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Patmore' planted 4-5 years ago and I've not ever fertilized it. It's doing fine. Your ash looks good to me. The native tree choices here are limited which is why we bring in non-natives. FWIW I don't have 10 years experience, just 5, but have planted and killed enough trees that maybe I'm not a newbie anymore, lol. I'm still learning and will be for life. This is a tough place to learn the ropes, but you're doing great. I love your yard! Barb
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I belive that too much nitrogen can delay flowering, and for flower formation phosphate is essential and for a healty plant I would not overlook potassium. It's my first experience with moon vines but they Impressed me with their fast growth. I planted them in feb indoor and they cover now all my windows (5 of thems) So my plan is : transplant them in larger pots using well aerated soil like adding perlite to some potting mix. Mixing my soil with bone meal (2-11-0) Take them out Use all purpose (20-20-20) fert to supply Nitrogen to get an abundant and healty green foliage In late may I will flush the soil with plain water to remove Nitrogen from soil and only add plain water and some 0-0-60 diluted in water once in a while it should allow the plant to become N deficient and trigger abundant flowering. By then the bacterias in the soil should break down consistent P(bone meal) to produce huge flowers all summer Will check on leaves if they turn yellow will add 20-20-20 to control N so the plant do not turn chlorotic but it should not happens These are fun, good luck to all of you ;)
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tiffy_z5_6_can
13 years ago
Gardenweed,
Just to let you know, wood ashes have no nitrogen value. However, they will turn acidic to alkaline soil. Gardeners need to be aware of what plants prefer a high PH or a low PH, and should look at ashes as though they are applying lime to their soil to 'soften' it. As an example, Lupines prefer acidic soil as do Azaleas and Rhodies. I do use ashes in the gardens so as not to waste what our wood stove provides, but am careful of where it is placed.

Lots of perennials do benefit from wood ashes - Phlox, Buddleias, Echinaceas, Lavendars, etc. - especially in my gardens where the soil can reach acidic levels of 4.5 PH.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Ash Value in the Gardens/ Purdue Univ.
pitimpinai
13 years ago
I am with tiffy here: bone meal at bulb planting time, blood meal (to deter squirrels and rabbits in early spring), compost tea, alfalfa tea, compost, leaf mold , shredded leaves...any time of year. Horse manure whenever I have time to go haul it...usually early spring & mid spring & late fall.

Any acid loving plants may get a diluted bucket of vinegar & water when I remember.

No chemical fertilizer.
kqcrna
13 years ago
Me, too. A little granular earth-friendly stuff (usually flower tone) in the hole at planting time. Compost whenever it's finished enough to use, and organic mulches.

The only chemicals I use is in flower pots.

Karen

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