I'm wondering the same thing. My red bulb decided to split off a daughter. But after the summer the mother is now only slightly larger than the daughter, and neither are as large as the original bulb.

If you separate then the overall space demand will become bigger than when you let the cluster together.
This is a serious point of view for all those who have only limited space on hand.

If watering is stopped and the substrate has become dry then it is wise to cut all the remaining leaves away. Then transfer the pot to a place where you can maintain a temperature span of 50 to 60°F

Clustered amaryllis with several bloomable bulbs perform very impressively, and the numerous subsequent leaves distribute the space generally well on the window glass - the individual leaves of the babies and the mother bulb will still receive sufficient light.

However, after some years you simply WILL have to separate the clump. I tend to wait with that as long as possible - see above

Hans-Werner

Helllloooo Maria!
I'm soo glad to see you again:)
Young bulblets often dont have their own basal plate or roots till they have a bit of size on them.
If your plant is in a propagative frenzy I would keep it awake for the winter. Be careful with watering and cut fertilizer in half unless you have a grow light.The mother bulb will most likely bloom in spring if it gets a bit of temperature dip when it goes outside.
My Amputo is now mother to 11 and busy trying to send roots out the bottom of a 12 inch pot :o She has a prime spot on the top shelf in the just finished greenhouse :)
If the bulblets have their own roots then you can seperate them and grow them on by themselves but they grow slower that way.Maybe they get lonely? Lora

It would help the young bulbs development if you can keep them growing under good conditions through the winter.

Sometimes this is just not possible, as in my own home due to lack of good light, so I usually have to allow foliage to yellow and drop on my mature bulbs, but have noticed how reluctant the babies are to lose all foliage. Even quite far from a north-facing window, some of the offsets have kept their one or two leaves despite the conditions!

Robert.

I would like to add my two cents here. I like to grow my plants continuously and let them bloom whenever they want. I have found that causing the plants a little stress causes them to bloom. For example, once I bring the big healthy bulbs with 8-10 large strappy leaves into the house for the winter, I let them adjust to the different conditions for a couple of weeks. Then, I water them every week, just enough so the leaves don't droop and snap in two. I keep this up for about a month or so. Then, I suddenly change to regular watering/feeding. Many bulbs respond to this treatment by blooming with all the foliage intact. It takes a little skill to lower the watering enough without damaging the foliage, but it works for me.

Plant_Guy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Amaryllis Page

Hellooooooo Lora! Nice to hear that your greenhouse is done. Just in time for fall/winter gardening...lucky you! I was just thinking like maybe, just as you have mentioned, if the babies have roots of their own, it might be better to seperate them and let them to continue growing inside than putting them to sleep for several months.
My Blossom Peacock with 3 babies I think just refuses to sleep. It is right now putting out a scape (fourth this year). This variety is just performing so good for me I'm thinking about letting it grow inside. I will definitely occupy a big space in my limited winter growing area.