As donnabaskets says, delphiniums don't come easy down south. Took me about five years to get the first batch to grow. Some of my thoughts and observations ... Seed needs to be fresh and kept in the frig until time to plant. Buy a pack that has sat on a store rack for a couple of months and you have zero chance. Use a good peat based medium. Pat the seed into the surface then dust very lightly with powdered line, just enough to give the surface a bit of a gray look. Cover with an eighth inch of loose medium. Keep the flats moist in an air conditioned room out of light. This should be done in August. Don't think you will keep the plants over the summer. It seems to be the high soil temp that kills them. I've seen them survive 98 in late June, but as the soil heats up in July it's a hopeless case. If I grow some more I may try digging them after the blooms have been cut back a week or two and storing the roots in a frig. I like the large Pacific Giants which can produce 3 to 4 ft spikes in the south. The shorter ones are just not worth the trouble. If you can get them to survive the seedling stage to be planted in fall they are almost certain to go on to bloom. Some years I loose them all. A good year and I get half to the garden. You want easy, do larkspur, but they aren't going to have the big beautiful blooms that come on delphiniums.

That is a long time for bunching onions to mature. They may have used a generic onion maturation time on the packet. I checked a couple online seed vendors and they said 60 days and 75 days for evergreen white. Usually bunching onions are planted densely and used many at a time. If you direct sow it will be much less work, and since bulb formation is irrelevant you can harvest them at any point in the season and their eating quality will be the same. If they aren't giant at the end of the season you can still eat them, or let them winter over and they'll be back bigger (and in larger numbers). I overwintered about half a dozen of them that were planted last summer, a couple divided in two, and several are now in the process of flowering. I was hoping they'd split into 5 or 6 like shallots do, unless they divide several times per year they don't seem particularly 'bunching'.

Well you won't need 1000W for a single plant, but 20W is not really enough. Can you not find a sunny window even in the middle of summer? Tomatoes are notoriously difficult to grow with artificial lights because they are so tall and a common solution is just to use massive amounts of light. Although typically 30W of light is plenty for a square foot of plants such as a single tomato, a tomato plant should really be considered more like five square feet since that is the area from the side. Even the most creative solution is going to need 100W of light or more, and so you should be looking at a couple of 4' fluorescent tubes mounted on each side of the plant, maybe four tubes if you want two or three plants. Remember that something like this will cost something like $10/month to run for maybe 16 hours a day, plus any extra load on your A/C from the heat, so it doesn't pay to try and use cheap but inefficient 20W compact fluorescents. And don't get an aquarium light, they are for ... well ... aquariums! Get cool white fluorescents, or daylights, or plant lights, but not something that is designed to make coral glow in the dark :)

As some one indicated on your previous thread, there are several varieties bred just for growing in small spaces, and the site below has several listed. In particular; Micro-Tom #6536 'World's smallest tomato variety,'. Grows 5 to 8 inches tall in a 4 inch pot bearing flavorful miniature tomatoes about the size of salad croutons. Plants are truly diminutive and wonderful for patios, windowsills or garden borders. Patio F Hybrid #6334 This dwarf variety is one of America's most popular varieties ever for growing on patios, decks, courtyards, or wherever garden space is limited. Plants ... only become about 2 ft. tall, but produce large harvests of bright red, 3 to 4 oz. flavorful tomatoes. Outstanding for growing in containers -- one that measures at least 12 inches wide works best. Red Robin This popular dwarf variety of cherry tomato thrives in relatively small pots or hanging baskets set on sunny windowsills or outdoor patios. Plants only become 8 to 12 in. tall and bear masses of 1-1/4 inch full-flavored tomatoes with a touch of sweetness. It is a very rewarding harvest from a small tomato plant that can be grown in an 8-inch pot Tiny Tim Just perfect for container growing or smaller gardens. Plants grow no more than 18 inches tall and can be grown in a 6-inch pot Totem #5804 Perfect for container growing, this dwarf tomato plant only becomes 10 to 12 inches tall, but produces lots of flavorful, small red tomatoes. Tumbling Tom Hybrid Perfect for hanging baskets and containers, this plant cascades 18 inches over the container's edge, bearing lots of bright red 1 to 2-inch cherry tomatoes that are deliciously sweet. Plants grow about 6 inches wide, so you can place several in a 10 or 12-inch pot for a very attractive display. This is a great variety for gardeners with limited space. Other smaller varieties Elfin, Sweet Olive, Yellow canary In looking at your pictures, I see room for some 3 gallon containers. In addition, hanging, or vertical gardening, adds available space. Your temperate location can certainly work to your advantage, some of us in Colorado only get 5 months of growing season. Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato growers small plants