I'm still trying to figure out how best to store Dahlias here in Minnesota. I do have a good place for them but each year when I try to preserve them I always have some die. I've tried the plastic wrap and they rotted. Otherwise, if I put them in paper bags and into the storage area they tend to just dry out. Sometimes I take them out of storage in Feb. and soak them in the sink so that they won't dry out and that seems to help. In March I plant them in pots to get them an early start. I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it to save them or if I should just buy new every spring. I always end up buying some of them to replace the ones that don't make it through the winter. In zone 4, (long winter), I'd be interested in knowing how you store yours. If you use the baggie/vermiculite method, what does the vermiculite do to preserve the dahlia bulbs? Thanks.

We store anywhere from 50-100 squash every year, and I've found the best place to store them is on newspaper or cardboard in a dry, bright room with plenty of air circulation. In our case, its on shelves in the greenhouse where the temps are roughly 40 at night and 75 during the day, all winter long. This is naturally a very dry climate, so that helps:-) For recipes, squash goes great with lime juice, diced and browned in butter/olive oil, and of course the 'pumpkin' pies. Then diced and into soups and stews, any of the Thai / West African dishes with a peanut sauce. I know it sounds yucky, but with many of the winter squash that are going to be cooked, the peel will cook up very tender and it would take a far more delicate tongue than mine to tell a peeled vs non-peeled dice of squash in a blind taste test. And finally, they can be sliced, cooked, then dehydrated - they taste like candy.

I's probably more energy efficient that the Sub Zero that you are replacing it with. If you can use the extra storage, and remember that built ins actually have less storage than a freestanding fridge, then there is nothing wrong with keeping a fairly new refrigerator. I'd even find a way to hook up the ice maker, because you won't be getting one with the Sub Zero. Now, if this is a 30 year old fridge, it probably will use a bit more energy than a new model of even a non Energy Star rated fridge like a Sub Zero. But, if it's lasted 30 years, it's also likely to keep going without too many issues as well.

>>>"1) I will have the ice maker installed. With the bottom freezer basket being wire instead of solid, if an ice cube fell out of the ice bin where would it end up?"In my freezer, it would wind up on top of something else. My freezer is usually pretty full. If you have an otherwise empty freezer, I suppose an ice cube could fall through the baskets to the floor. Does not seem likely as the wire bail/arm thingie projects down in side the ice bucket. I have not hooked up the ice maker so I'm not able to comment further. >>>"2) Does your freezer drawer extend out beyond the open french door? Whirlpool Customer Service says that depth with freezer drawer open information is "not available" for the KBFS20EVMS. I realize your refrigerator is 33" and I am looking at 36", but I suspect a wider freezer drawer would not open further than the one you have."Well, actually, mine will project out further than with a KBFS20 because mine is standard depth, not counter depth. As I pointed out in your thread, the CD model will only project out about 18 or 20 inches. The KBFS22 model that I have is several inches deeper to there is more room freezer drawerr. With a CD model, the drawer will project out about as far as the larger door. >>>"Any negatives you have noticed with wire rather than solid freezer basket?"Had not given it any thought but, now that you mention it, I think a solid basket (inner drawer?) might hold the cold a bit better, as with a chest freezer. On the other hand, I think wire baskets may give better air flow for more rapid cooldowns and more even temps throughout the compartment.