kawaiineko: You're on the right track keeping up with the weather & knowing that the plants can be aggravated when they're potted up, but that it helps them. I transplant mine either once or twice, depending upon start date. I start the seeds in whatever container (3 inch square pots this year with Pro Mix Seedling Mix) & keep them in there until they get rootbound (if using pellets or something smaller, transplant them earlier). At that point, in the past, i'd move them from the cell/pellet/etc. into 16-20 oz plastic cups which hopefully last until they go in their final homes. Trick is to only transplant when they get rootbound cuz it's much harder then to distrub them. They may very well still "stall" growth for a week or so after a potting up, but don't worry about this, they are growing where you can't see (roots) at that time. They'll take back off. Anyway, all this usually takes up about 2 months until they just have to go into their final homes. Hence, 2 months from last frost date here, which is the middle of February (ish). Hope this helps. :) - Steve

ncage, I actually thought they were wilted from too much water. I bottom water thru capillary matting so they are always moist. But they really perked up so I am happy. I should mention it was only my stocks, not all of my seedlings. shrubs, The new fertilizer I am using is incredibly mild and I don't think you could damage a plant with it if you tried. Also, in this case I don't think the foliar spray could be propaganda primarily because when you apply the fertilizer to the roots they instruct you to apply it directly as brewed. One tea bag make 2 cups so you would be going through a lot of tea. However, for the spray you add 1 Tablespoon per quart of water. 1 or 2 teabags could last me all season and I won't be buying anymore for a few years. Here is a link that might be useful: tea fertilizer

It is almost certain that the controlled release fertilizer in the planting mix only contains 3 nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. There are many more. If these plants will go into the ground then that's one thing, but if they will spend their entire life in a container then you need to add all the nutrients for best results. Calcium and magnesium are very necessary. Dolomitic lime (will raise pH) will supply both in a good ratio. Commercially prepared, peat based soil-less mixes already have the lime added, but if you made your own mix you would have to add it. Anyway, to answer your question, plants require fertilizer for best growth once the first true leaves form. Another tid bit of info: The controlled release fertilizer in commercial potting mixes will release nutrients based upon the temperature of the soil they are in. If the bag says feeds for 3 months this is *always* based upon a soil temp of 70F. Early in the season this will likely be the case (maybe even coolers), but in a container in summer the internal temp will not trail far behind air temps and pots in direct sunlight get even hotter. All this means is that it will feed for much less than the time advertised. Generally I tell people to ignore what the bag says and fertilize as if there was no CRF in the mix.

You never know what will happen with these things. I think they grow generally about the same rate at this stage. Greenclaw's robustas were peaking above the surface 3 weeks before mine but then mine took off and are about a leaf ahead of his now. These are so many variables so we should look at them on a case to case bases. You are so very in the competition. LOL! Just kidding there's no race. You can fertilize with Miracle Gro in small amounts about every week to week and a half until they go outside. Im using the root stimulator starter solution (5-15-5) for now. When they go outside I'll give them some "Milorganite" and Miracle Gro Shake and Feed Palm Fertilizer. We'll see what happens and I'll keep everyone posted. Jay