Bulbos like it warm and moist except those that need a cooler and dry-er winter rest like triste, lasiochilum and wendlandianum. I have another one that needs to dry out in the winter but sitting here, CRS rears it's ugly head. The old Cirrhopetalums, now all classified as Bulbo, should all do well for you. Check Andy's site and he gives light requirements. If he says shade to bright shade it translates to shade, believe it. Bright shade means it can be grown with catts. The old Cirr also have more compact foliage which is ideal under lights. If you get anything from Andy mounted on a stick, it needs to be removed and potted up. Even with a g/h I couldn't keep the tingabarinum or purpurescens moist enough and they limped along until I potted them up. Brooke

I think you might be interested in a method I have been thinking of for a water fall feature, Ill try my best to describe it to you, it would be a water fall with a "cave" behind it, you build your false bottom first (pvc eggcrate)then in whatever corner/side you chose you build a frame, this frame will be the "skeleton" for your water fall,build it to be a cave,keeping in mind that when complete the water will be falling down and in front of this cave, make it caddy corner or directly on the side wall of the tank,(I think caddy corner would look best) you can make the opening to the cave as wide and as tall as you want, remember to be creative! this is your baby! you place the pump on the opposite side of the tank, where you will place a piece (or several pieces) of egg crate in the rear corner of the tank, again caddy corner,make it from the bottom of the tank up to the top of the tank, so that when you look directly down from the top of the tank, the shape behind the egg crate is a triangle, understand? make sure that the space behind the egg crate (the triangle) is large enough to allow your pump to be easily pulled up and easily lowered back in, that will be your access area, allowing you to clean/replace the pump when/if needed with out disturbing the tank and the inhabitants, you run the hose from the pump inside and at the bottom of the access area up to the top of the tank, then fold the hose at the top of the tank and send it back down the access area, the reason for this is to have enough hose to pull the pump up and out of the area when needed, then you simply run the hose along the bottom of the tank under the false bottom and up to the top of your water fall, there you will place your choice of "basin", slate, natually bowl shaped stone, driftwood, or whatever you want your water to run off of, you glue the hose in place with brown silicone at the spot where you want the water to begin filling your "basin" also use brown silicone to hold your basin in place, let it dry, then, starting from the bottom, begin to add the expanding foam, building the "muscle" of the skeleton as you go up, (remember to add the right size pots onto the frame using wire ties before starting the foam)cover the entire cave area in foam, not thick! just enough to cover the frame, them let the foam dry over night and add your favorite cover or "skin" if you will, I like coco fiber, I described the method of application in an earlier posting, you will do the entire back of the wall (if you like) using this method, that way the whole tank (back ground) looks full and complete, you can make your rivers and ponds using this same method also, just use small gravel for the river bottom instead of coco fiber, then you can let the rivers drain at the other end of the tank. Please let me know if this might work for you, also if I failed to accurately describe any part, please let me know and I will try harder! LOL! I will post pictures of the access area on my tank soon, hopfully tommorrow. =^)-

lukkiirish - here's a synopsis: tub/shower combo, toilet and sink/vanity will stay in the same place they are now door will become a pocket door with opaque glass that lets light through new tub might be a little wider and deeper if I can move tub spout to side of tub rather than end of tub (for seating at either end of tub) door may have to move over a little to accommodate wider tub door moving over may mean vanity needs to be a little shallower relatively new toilet will be replaced with one that flushes human waste without the aid of a plunger vanity will be replaced with one designed for the space such that doors aren't obstructed from opening by the toilet - and so that laundry chute under the vanity that is current sealed up with contact paper becomes usable with something like a bin type opening - and so that it generally has well designed storage for bathroom use medicine cabinet that's to the side of the vanity will be gone and replaced with some other medicine cabinet type storage other stuff that's just wearing out like faucets, tile/grout, exhaust fan, etc. will be replaced other than that I'm really going to try not to get caught up in too many extravagant, expensive ideas (unlike my kitchen)

No hot carpenters, ladies. The scout came out today to interview me and take pics. AND she filmed me to see how I would do on camera. Well, there's a deal breaker. I don't think I am a natural. The two projects I submitted were my unfinished basement and deck. I doubt I will be selected. I think they prefer couples (especially for such big projects.) Also, I am not really sure I would want to be on TV!! It could be months before I know but I will let you know if I get a call. Thanks.