If i pay shipping do you think you can ship a small division? Or maybe i can send you some of my P. Aureosulcata. It will get around that size, but what is your min temp

I like Fargesias and this one will look good. They are less disease-prone than Phyllostachys. It's a clumper, meaning it will be easier to control than runners. Check the exposure. Even tho they come from high elevations, they are surprisingly shade-tolerant, probably because there are open woods even at their high elevations, and because summer skies are often overcast in the Himalaya and southwestern China. My Fargesia is in full sun but I am further north in a part of the world notorious for leaden skies. You might say mine gets full cloud exposure for most of the year. How tall is "tall"? In my part of the world I think F. robusta would get about 20 feet, but I don't know about yours.

I think all i have left as far as bamboos is 1 very small fargesia rufa, and 3 phyllostachys parvifolia whip shoots which might all fit into a medium flat rate box. parvifolia is however a more aggressive grower than most of other running types I grow in the ground, but it's not a rampant runner like the aureosulcatas, bissetiis, or rubromarginata. Some of my other runners would take a few months for me to get a viable division, perhaps through airlayering a shoot bud into a nursery pot. I don't mind sending a box of plants as long as you pay for the shipping and $3 for gas, but I don't have of a large variety at this point in time. I also have some neighbors with claims already on the next division that some of my bamboos produce. It is possible to mow around and step on shoots to control them if you have lots of space, but the rhizomes will still keep advancing a bit farther each year and it is possible for shoots to pop up over 10ft away from the main plant. Thinning out culms will tend to discourage this type of behavior, and using a shovel to dig a round the circumference of the grove right after shooting season will kill off and rot all the unwanted rhizomes that don't have any attachment to a culm because their starches will be depleted right after new shoots are done branching out, but not leafed out yet. I still haven't had to do any form of containment, but I'm in an even colder climate than you, and bamboos require warm soil temperatures to spread well.

I wish I could plant it in the ground but I live in a condo complex and have very little land of my own to plant in. The reason "green pander" was choosen is because it is supposed to be the smallest of the hardy bamboos for shady areas. I don't know too much about it but was told to split it every couple or three years if it is grown in a container. I was planing to use a 1/2 and 1/2 mixture of prepackaged soil mix and turface and can get a supply of fish and seeweed liquid fertilizer. Would this be OK? Paul