Your bamboo is probably fine. You have to work pretty hard to overfertilize a Phyllostachys. Most likely those two smaller shoots were going to abort anyway, since Phyllostachys usually start more shoots than they can mature. The extra shoots are the plant's form of insurance. If some of the shoots get damaged/eaten/harvested by weather/animals/people, then more of the remaining shoots would grow to maturity rather than abort. You have to remember that in Asia, Phyllostachys evolved along with a host of bamboo-specific insect, animal, fungal, and bacteria that target bamboo shoots. So the plant "expects" to lose a certain proportion of shoots to these organisms. But when black bamboo was imported to North America, it left most of these pests behind, so it initiates more shoots than it can mature when left unmolested.

Steve- Bamboo do quite well with spacing on their own without needing chain saw intervention. The ideal spacing is what the plant thinks it needs. If you take out old, dead culms, that's no problem. But if you remove culms with viable leaves you're going to reduce the capacity of the plant's aboveground biosystem, and possibly slow down growth. I'd let it alone right now, and prune out culms based on esthetic considerations in the fall...if you still think it's necessary then.

I really wish my bamboo was nearly as invasive and aggressive as many people say. I planted some black bamboo last year and so far got one shoot. I'm waiting for some shooting this year and so far nothing. Kudzu you do such a good job defending bamboo. You should have a file for cutting and pasting to answer the same old questions about crazy run away bamboo. Question how do I get this crazy run away bamboo grooves that I hear so much about. My experience with bamboo in about 2 years MOSO so far not real shoots Some Philo species unknown, A few small shoots this year Bambusa multiplex goldengoddess starting to look like something finally about 5 feet tall b multiplex alphonse karr (best performing clumper for me so far about 3 feet tall from a tiny division) b multiplex silverstripe OK performer time will tell Point is Bamboo (at leat for me) has not been an out of control monster. Anyone out there want to give me some evil bamboo to see what I can do with it?

Amyly Ann, here are some care instructions on found online. Lets not even think about fertilizer right now, the plant doesn't need it yet as it has to recover from all the messing around were are doing to it, and it is in new soil so it is fine on fertilizer right now. http://houseplants.about.com/od/typesofhouseplants/a/LuckyBamboo.htm Caring for Your Lucky Bamboo Light: Lucky bamboo prefer bright, filtered sunlight, such as found under a rainforest canopy. Avoid direct sunlight as it will scorch the leaves. They are more tolerant of too little light than too much. If the plant begins to stretch, however, or the green fades, provide more light. Temperature: Lucky bamboo likes warmer temperatures of between 65ºF and 90ºF. Do not place the plants in front of air conditioning or heating vents. Potting Media: In addition to water, lucky bamboo can be grown in a well-drained, rich potting soil. Keep the soil moist, but not soaking. Water as you would any Dracaena species. The Dracaena genus has provided some of the sturdiest houseplants available today, including the every-popular D. deremensis. These plants, which are native to Africa, have been used as houseplants since at least the mid-19th century and are still popular because they possess the single most important quality in a houseplant: they’re pretty and fairly hard to kill. D. deremensis work as single windowsill plants or as part of a mixed group, with their various leaf patterns complementing and overlapping one another. Growing Conditions: Light: Low light is fine, but they like it a little brighter. New leaves will narrow if there isn’t enough light. Water: Keep evenly moist, although if you have to err, do so on the dry side. (But keeping it too dry will result in brown leaf tips.) Use non-fluoridated water as they are sensitive to fluoride. Temperature: Keep above 50ºF if possible. They do best in the mid-70ºs to low 80ºs. Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix. Fertilizer: During growing, fertilizer with slow-release fertilizer or use a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer at half-strength every month. Propagation: They root readily from cuttings. Push tip cuttings into warm soil and keep moist. They will usually root readily without use of rooting hormone. They should root within a month. Repotting: Repot annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Grower's Tips: D. deremensis is a great plant for low-light conditions, but beware of low humidity. If the humidity drops below 40 percent for an extended time, the tips of the leaves can turn brown. Try misting the plant every day to provide humidity. It’s also sensitive to fluoride and excessive salts, so try to use nonfluoridated water and flush monthly to remove fertilizer salts. Growth may cease completely below 70ºF, but will resume when warmer weather returns. Iron deficiency can result in yellowing leaves between the veins—treat with an iron drench. They are susceptible to thrips and mealybugs.