Nancy: As grapes bloom and the small fruit form the changes come quickly. Before bloom there is a little green bud, hundreds of them on each flower cluster. After flowering most of the fruit aborts and falls off. The little grapes then grow rapidly. So just be patient, things will settle down and you will have clusters of small grapes, quickly changing to large grapes. That's one thing I like about grapes, they change quickly. Your observations sound normal to me. The Fruitnut

Pennys2006, I hope your bulb will be successful. I also buy new bulbs all the time to make sure I get nice, big flowers... Though I must admit, I overdid it, so I am full of bulbs now, and there is not enough day in the calendar to plant them all, and enjoy. :o) But I just crossed Benfice with Milady, and it seems like other crosses were successful, so I am getting a lot of seeds... Where is it gonna stop? I guess, I will start selling bulb kits on ebay in a few years. :o)

The special reason is for forcing them to bloom in a specific time of the year. By putting them in the refrigerator, you trick them thinking it is winter, so when you take them out and warmth and water hits them, they start waking up and flowering even at Christmas. hopflower: Just use common sense. Water once thoroughly, then only start watering once a week when the foliage or flower scape emerges. If you see the water wetting the top of the soil, you have overwatered, so just let it dry for about twice the time between waterings. Your specific situation would alter this though. If you have a very dry room, the soil could dry out every other day as it happened to my friend, but it could be wet for two weeks, as it happens usually at my place. So you will have to try and experience it for yourself. Bottom watering is more safe though, since you are not watering the bulb itself. But as you said, everything can be overdone...

Squirel cage fans block the light, an important consideration if some plants need 12 hours of darkness to bloom. The axial fans Paul is talking about do not block the light; you would have to rig up something else to do that. The axial fans that are quiet, tend to have low cfm. Because small axial fan blades have so little surface area, they need to rotate fast in order to move a lot of air. (Paul) " Electrical and computer fans at low rpm are virtually silent,..." (Lermer) "Electrical" fans? I had thought all fans were electrical, although I suppose there might be little elves with hand-powered fans. "Computer" fans? I don't know what kind of fan Paul has, (perhaps the original WWII-era Eniac); but in all the computers I have seen, the axial fans in them are too small to be useful for plant room ventilation. (Dcarch) "The computer type of cooling fan is specifically designed for ventilating and cooling." (Lermer) Silly me, I had thought all fans were for the purpose of ventilation and cooling. Please, tell me where I could get some fans that are not. Ripley's Believe it or Not might be interested. (dcarch) "Squirrel cage (centrifugal) blowers are specifically used to overcome backpressure situations as in pushing air thru ductworks. It is never used for general cooling purposes." (Lermer) Squirrel cage fans have that capability, but they don't have to be used in ducting; in fact they are rated for different lengths of ducting starting with none at all. Normally I wouldn't use them without ducting (because of the higher cost) but they do block the light. If you read what I said, my first preference was for an open door with a 16" pedestal mount fan from Home Depot. Telling someone to make holes in their door and install axial fans in them, without warning them about light leaks (in and out) is irresponsible. (dcarch) "Before you use a 16" fan to blow on your seedlings, say goodbye to them first." (Lermer) I said, pedestal mount; which means, the height is adjustable. Jon didn't say anything about seedlings. Those can be placed away from strong air currents. The bigger plants would appreciate the air movement (as any but rookie growers know). (Object 16) "PHOTOSYNTHESIS IS OPTIMUM at 70-85 degrees." (Lermer) That's an incredibly ignorant statement. Where did you hear that? Generally, he optimum temperature is 76F. For every two degrees above that, you lose about 10% of the plant growth. This isn't apparent to the naked eye, except at extremely high levels. Above 76F you will see more green leaves because the leaf surface area increases (leaves become thinner) to transpire/cool more; and the leaves at such high temperatures tend to be more full of water. Once you weigh the dried mass, you will significant reductions in yield at 85F. Although light-on periods should have at least 70F. http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/greenh use_management/gh_cool_growing.htm "For many crops, media temperatures for germination should be between 72F and 76F. After a crop is established, most plants will tolerate non-optimal temperatures more easily. Seed germination is not the place to skimp on heat." (Lermer) Adult plants can usually tolerate slightly lower or higher temperatures, depending on species (where they evolved). A few degrees above optimum is a lot more harmful than a few degrees below optimum. (Object 16) "Plant growth is mainly a function of total number of photons - a rough measure of light intensity is lumens, so have a look at both lamps, and decide whether one or the other has sufficient lumens." (Lermer) "Lumens" is a "rough" measure, true; very rough, because it is biased toward the center of the spectrum. HPS reads very high in lumens because it is mostly yellow spectrum. However lacking a better common measurement, "lumens" is a factor to consider; but you should also consider spectrum. Generally you want a full spectrum, between 400-700nm, blue (about 420nm) and red (about 675nm) are the most important. For that, CRI (color rendering index) is a rough measure.