Thanks to all. I have no concerns whatsoever about going the sulfuric acid route, particularly as I have a boxed bag of same sitting in the basement. To those who do the same, seems like I've seen a couple methods suggested on www searching, some do so at all watering with the pH of the water adjusted to a higher level (5.5-6.0), some do occasionally with pH adjusted down around 4.5-5.0. And then some suggest mag sulfate (epson salts) or vinegar instead with all watering. Anything optimal? Plants did have some yellow veining at beginning towards the end of their hardening stay and then first month or so after transplanted. Now all heavy green foliage, well being this is AK and all, now getting a hint of red, like I said maybe the Chippewa will have time, maybe not. My rock is granite mostly. The 35 year old AK log house foundation is get this pressure treated wood for the full basement. Who knows what is leaching from that, it is the old stuff with a lot of copper obviously and who knows what else, but the plants are about 8 feet out from the wall, I'm not too concerned. I'll go with the suggestion of bamboo_rabbit today and water all with water adjusted down to 4.5 or so. Thanks again.

I'm posting on this OLD post because it still comes up at the top of google search for "citrus peels lower soil ph" ... I have been doing tests with Citrus Peels.... I have found that about 30 good size grapefruit peels blended up in a blender (lots of batches of blending) with half water/half citrus in the end, produces a good acid base. I did enough to fill 30% of a 5 gallon bucket, which I then diluted to a full 5 gallons of liquid. This was then diluted 5 fold to register a drop in pH of 1 for the water... This diluted citric acid can be used similarly to sulfuric acid dilute. There is a company here that sells Moon Juice which is a combination of sulfuric acid + iron and other trace minerals... It's used for temporarily lowering the ph so trees and shrubs and such can uptake iron and other minerals that lock out at alkaline pH Levels... Given that we're in the southwest we have an ABUNDAND supply of citrus and over time, this is the same effect the trees fruit would give to the soil if there were no humans to tend to and pick the fruit... the fruit would rot on the ground, the citric acid would leach out into the ground as it decomposes and maintain a more acidic soil balance for the trees long term support... So can you use citric acid to dilute, yes you can, though, just like with a sulfuric acid dilute, you're going to need to apply it regularly (monthly or so depending on ph plant/etc) until the bacteria that feed on the sulfur have had enough time to lower the soils actual ph levels ... Something that seems to be long forgotten as I read some of these posts is... all living things have a pH, you can burn things by dropping ph too fast, or by raising too fast, so obviously some of the responses regarding putting acid next to the roots are appropriate, they are also inappropriate because your obviously not going to dump straight acid on anything unless your intention is to utilize the full strength of the acid :P Good Luck! Would love to hear about what you've done and how it's developed since your original questions!

Phosphoric acid, nitric (muriatic) acid, sulfuric acid or citric acid are used to lower pH of water. Vinegar is too weak because high pH water is buffered by minerals. Food Grade Phosphoric Acid is used in commercial greenhouse operations. Although no acid is "safe" and all must be handled with care, nitric and sulphuric acid are dangerous. Citric is expensive. Food Grade Phosphoric Acid adds phosphorus, ppm, to the water. If the water is very hard or a person is using triple phosphate fertilizers then care must be taken not to exceed the plant limits. Water hardness and pH are related but not the same. pH is a measure of the acid or base. Hardness is a measure of the buffering ability of the dissolved minerals in the water. The type and quantity of dissolved minerals in some water requires more acid to lower the pH than water that might have a different mineral composition. The people over at the hydroponic forum can be very helpful for specific questions about water pH, raising and lowering. This post was edited by lucky123 on Thu, Aug 21, 14 at 0:11

See if you can find Soil & Water dudes to talk to instead of Cooperative Extension. How old is the construction? If it is more than 5 years old, then alkaline leaching has already occurred, and you've got what you've got. My personal experience, living in a lime pocket among an assortment of lime pockets, is that most gardeners have been quite thoroughly brainwashed into thinking anything in the east has to be acidic. It just isn't so. So when confronted with an alternate reality, they come up with excuses. Concrete leaching is a classic. Older concrete doesn't leach, and the leaching doesn't travel much. I don't know how many times I've been told that I should stop liming, and then I will have 'normal' acidic soil. If you want to know how the neighbor grows camellias, go over and ask. And no, my soil doesn't fizz either, and my pH, and calcium numbers are very similar to yours.