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Azalea & Rhododendron

Azaleas/rhodies under spruce

18 years ago

My front lawn has a canopy of mature Norway Spruce trees, a steep slope and an eastern exposure with filtered morning sun. The ground is covered with Vinca Minor, English ivy and Euonymus. I'd like to use a few azaleas and/or rhodies as foundation plantings to conceal a naked gas meter. Soil is neutral pH.

I've never tried to grow azaleas. Do you think the'd do well in front of my gas meter? Does anyone have suggestions on varieties for this zone, when to plant, how to plant, etc.?

Thanks, Allen

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Comments (3)

morz8 - Washington Coast
18 years ago
In climates where winter is severe, early Spring planting is recommended. But, a neutral PH is still a little high for acid loving rhododendrons and azaleas, you would need to address that. And be prepared to provide water under your tree canopy.

Linked is a list of 'proven performers' for Missouri under Ozark Chapter

Here is a link that might be useful: For your area....
ego45
18 years ago
I don't think that above mentioned groundcovers could be a good neighbors with any azalea or rhododendron as they all are shallow rooted and will be competening with your plant for water and nutrients.
Neutral pH is not a big plus either, but rhododendron 'Cunningham White' considered to be the most tolerant of alcaline soils and it's hardy to -15F, so it may worth to try it there.
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I don't think the pachy is hurting either the rhods or the azaleas other than they are competing for water, which could explain the brown leaves. Make sure you are providing them with ample water, including during the fall/winter. If you are seeing the rhods' leaves sort of fold in like closing an umbrella during very cold spells during the winter, that is usually a sign that they need water, but by then the ground is frozen and it is difficult to provide for their need.
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Mainegrower gave excellent advice. I would add: Â Take precautions to preserve the integrity of the root ball. Tie the ball together and support is so it doesn't fall apart. The very safest approach is to dig a trench up to 12 inches deep, around the dripline of the plant. Then undercut the plant to form a cone, removing the soil an inch or so at a time, moving all around the plant, until you begin to see that you are removing roots. If possible, then get a square of burlap under the plant. Tilt the plant to one side, put one edge of the burlap close to the center of the plant, wadded up so that only half of it is on the open side of the plant, then rock the plant the other way and pull the burlap through. Tie the corners of the burlap to each other across the plant. Tie the burlap tightly to keep the soil around the plant roots undisturbed. Then lift the plant by the burlap and the bottom, not by its stems. Â Pruning the top helps match the demands of the top to the capability of the roots after they are stressed by the move. People have been known to cut the top off wild rhododendrons before moving and the plants have come back with superior shape. This is drastic and not recommended for a plant you don't want to risk loosing. Rhododendrons and azaleas have dormant buds beneath the bark which sprout to form new growth after severe pruning, hence severe pruning which removes 1/3 to 1/2 of leaf area is quite common when transplanting. Make sure you watch the plant after it was moved like you would a new plant. Its roots are compromised and it will need a reliable source of moisture. If the weather has a dry spell, make sure you water any newly planted rhododendrons, large or small.
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OMG!!! I see tread marks on your mulch! I'm going to guess that you've brought a little batch of one of the many slime molds home with you from the nursery. I say this because it appears to be crawling over your rubber mulch (as if THAT stuff will do it any good, lol). Slime molds will behave that way. They 'walk'. True fungi does not. Slime molds are not a mold, fungus, mildew, or anything even remotely related to a disease. They feed on organic matter, such as the nursery mix from your azalea (which is probably mostly composted bark fines). It does not need to be removed nor does your plant need to be treated. Slime molds do not affect plants, which you have already observed. I wouldn't worry about removing leaves. Nothing is sick!! Since I see that you are using landscape fabric besides rubber mulch, I doubt very much that you will see this stuff back again. There's nothing that it will want to grow on. Unfortunately, I could not find an image of a slime mold that looks like this but I feel fairly certain that this is what you have. A correction would be most welcome.
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rhodyman
18 years ago
I grow rhododendrons under Norway Spruce but the shade and dry conditions severely stress the plants. The rhododendrons become very tall and open. Not exactly the effect you want. Most rhododendrons will grow in shade but only a few will bloom in shade. If you do this make sure you get compact shade loving rhododendrons. Also, remove the ground covers under the rhododendrons and use a raised bed by adding peat humus and mixing it with your soil. Put in a root-gard to keep the ground cover roots from coming in under your rhododendron bed. Both the ground covers and the rhododendrons have shallow roots and don't compete well with each other.

Some candidates:

'Ramapo' is a good dwarf rhododendron. It grows approximately 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Flowers are bright violet-pink. 'Ramapo' is hardy to -25Â°F. Tolerates sun and shade.

'Elviira' rhododendron is very hardy. It grows to a height of 2' and width of 18" to 24". It grows well in shade. A very low growing cultivar of rhodie. Densely branched, it is covered with flower buds that are hardy to -30F and open bright red. From the group of Marjatta hybrids developed at the University of Helsinki, Finland.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rhododendrons for Shade

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