I was going to suggest an All-In-One Almond Tree - a beautiful, flowering semi-dwarf nut tree that only grows to about 15' - but I think your state is too cold for it. http://www.willisorchards.com/product/All-In-One+Almond+Tree#.UagWmpywXLc Well, if you plant it away from the house at the outer edge of your flower bed, you MIGHT consider a native pawpaw tree (although it could grow up to 25'). It grows in a pyramidal shape and has delicious fruit! You might also consider some smaller species of persimmon trees, too? Here is a link that might be useful: Pawpaw Trees

I suggested the Clematis for the spot because I wasn't sure a climbing rose would work there. I am imagining that a rose vigorous enough to grow into the cedars would also want to get wide and massive, and keeping it attached to the cedar may get annoying. Clematis montana cultivars do get big, but their stems are thin and light, and will climb on their own into the cedars once they reach the lower branches. If you want later color that isn't dark, consider Clematis virginiana or Clematis flammula (both are fragrant white Autumn-blooming clematis) or the pink-edged white 'Rubromarginata' hybrid (also very fragrant). Brushwood Nursery is a great place to order clematis (and other climbers). Copy and paste the links below to see: Clematis montana cultivars http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/search/results.html?search_in_description=1&ignore_special_flag=1&keyword=montana&inc_subcat=0&page=1&sort=3a Clematis flammula http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-flammula-89.html Clematis 'Rubromarginata' http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-triternata-rubromarginata-218.html Clematis virginiana http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-virginiana-227.html And then, of course, google their names to see more pics and info. To break down the clematis "groups" simply, Type 1 are large plants with small flowers, and bloom in late Spring, a little earlier than most of the once-blooming roses. They bloom on old wood, so if you need to prune, you do it right after they flower, giving them time to grow more wood to be hardened over winter and bloom the following Spring. These include the montanas and Clematis armandii (both are fragrant), as well as some others. Type 2 are medium-sized climbers, usually with large flowers. They bloom on old and new wood, and usually twice -- once in late Spring to early Summer (usually just after the Type 1) on old wood, then they pause during the peak of Summer, and bloom again in August/September on new wood. Most don't need much pruning at all besides tidying up in the Spring. Type 3 includes the non-climbing herbaceous clematis, large-flowered Summer-blooming clematis like 'Jackmanii', the small-flowered Summer-blooming species and close hybrids, and the small-flowered Autumn-blooming species and close hybrids (the latter are often fragrant). Those that bloom in Summer usually start just as the Type 2 finish their fist bloom, while the Autumn-blooming ones usually bloom when the Type 2 are finishing their second bloom. Type 3 blooms only on new wood, and so are typically pruned harshly to keep them from getting bare at the base. The general rule of thumb is to find the lowest set of healthy leaf buds, and prune to just above them in the Spring. This might be only 12" from the ground. Of course, you could leave them unpruned higher up if they're trained into trees. In that case, I'd just snip them right above where they first reach into the branches, and only worry about pulling out last year's growth if it looks obvious and messy. :-) ~Christopher

I really like the wax myrtle, and think I'll try one just to the left of the pines. That area is in full sun for 8 hours or more a day. I love wildlife in the garden and do not mind berries. Also thinking of two Arborvitae Smaragd in the spaces between the three pine trees. I'll research the suggestions for more shade tolerant trees and shrubs. As far as the roots go, guess what we did all Sunday! We had good rain the day before and the ground was soaked. My husband used an axe and I used a saw. Severed thick roots as close to the trunk as we could and then pulled away from the trunk and snipped with loppers as we went. Most came up easily enough, but it was still backbreaking work. The stump grinder came yesterday and ground the stump and about a foot of root clumps right next to the stump. Saved us a lot of money by removing most roots ourselves.

Some years ago, there was a tree on the property behind me, about 30 ft. tall, that formed spectacular, bright pink, tulip shaped blooms in early spring. I had supposed it must be a "tulip tree." I eventually learned that it was in fact a saucer magnolia. Seems odd that they're not more widely planted in Central Texas. A real conversation piece, when in bloom. Another neighbor planted a couple of Monterrey Live Oaks about 10 years ago, and they have grown remarkably fast. He never waters anything, so I suppose they must thrive in arid conditions.