I grew BB in Grapevine, Texas and the color was indeed mostly buff, as advertised. Reve d'Or was on the other side of the arbor in more sun and of course bloomed more consistently. These were paired with Perle d'Or at the feet of Reve d'Or and Abe Darby at the feet of BB. Beyond them was Westerland. How I wish I had a picture of that bed! I just ordered Bubble Bath and expect it to give me two flushes here in SE Virginia. Any other bloom will be a plus. Of the hybrid musks in my circle bed, Lyda Rose is the best repeater, followed by Lavender Dream then Darlow's Enigma and Vanity. Buff Beauty is still on my short list tho she proved more difficult to train than Reve d'Or. I'll throw in a kudos for Cornelia whose flushes are wonderful in limited sun; one of the few that looks just like her pictures here despite our intense heat.

Totoro is on the right track, so I'll back her up. She is a medical doctor (M.D.) with a toddler. I respect her quoting the original source of info: A Horticultural University site, which I put the link in my Houzz profile thread on nutritional deficiencies in plants. My B.S. is in computer science, minor in chemistry so I am focused on accuracy and ACTUAL EXPERIENCE. Re-quote what Molra wrote: "I applied some iron (twice since April), fish mix some four days ago, Epsom salts (just once and I really only sprinkled a tiny quantity, since my garden soil is very alkaline." Iron is a trace elements, one need a super-tiny amount, like 0.01 mg .. overdose on that and you'll create a manganese deficiency. My soil in Illinois is heavy clay, pH 7.7 (professionally tested), and University of Illinois stated that in compact & wet clay, there's PLENTY OF IRON, but compact & waterlogged clay creates a manganese deficiency. They did a field study on trees here and found that the iron content is very high, but manganese is low. In the blueberry forum, folks who make their soil fluffy with organic matter can still grow a successful blueberry crop, despite alkaline soil. Testing for soil pH won't be accurate, unless one digs deep at the root-zone, and do that twice: after acidic rain, then again after watered with alkaline-tap water, you'll see a difference in pH. If you google "pH of rainwater across U.S", you see a pH 4.5 for my Chicagoland, compared to my tap water at pH 9. Buff Beauty is a hybrid musk, which PREFERS LOAMY SOIL. So the problem is not pH-level, but the compaction of waterlogged & dense clay, which chokes roots, so leaves turn pale. Melissa in Italy with 400+ roses, stated that hybrid musk thrive in LOAMY alkaline soil in her garden. I only have experience with 102 varieties of own-roots, so I always research extensively. Keep in mind that pH of rain is acidic, so a rainwater-logged soil will be acidic at soaking-wet bottom, while the surface is alkaline. Wood-chips on top decay to slightly alkaline. Also roots secrete acid in "acid-phosphatase", so making the soil loamy helps roots to be more efficient, even when watered with high-pH tap-water. I did exactly what Molra did years ago, and destroyed 6 rhododendrons plus 4 azaleas. I gave them iron sulfate, and they went down hill, worsen manganese deficiency. There's an inverse relationship between iron and manganese, UP the iron will PUSH DOWN manganese. Iron sulfate also burns roots in dense clay. Epsom salt WORSENS the compaction in clay, there's fun-experiments where folks create crystals with Epsom salt. Epsom salt HARDENS the soil further, thus WORSENS THE COMPACTION, which cause manganese to be less available. Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate, and my alkaline clay was tested EXCEEDINGLY HIGH in magnesium. Magnesium is what makes clay sticky, and deficiency is rare & occurs only in very sandy soil. The solution: Dig that up, and mix in pine-bark, which will make the soil loamy & improve drainage. Pine park pH is 4, which will lower the high pH of soil permanently. If it's a wimpy own-roots, the sharp & chunky edge of pine bark isn't best. A better solution for own-root is pine-shavings (light yellow) color, sold at Pet-section at Walmart for $3 for a huge bag, it's used to line the cage of rabbits. Mix in peat moss (pH 4) doesn't solve the problem since peat moss is a fine particle and glues up with clay & plus makes it even wetter & denser. Hybrid Musk prefers loamier & lighter soil. One year I mixed Pine-Shavings (light yellow) bag into my soil for my tomatoes, and they produced 3 times more fruits, thanks to the pine-shavings aerates the soil, giving oxygen for best root-growth. People don't realize that roots need oxygen for best growth, thus fluffy soil is the solution for cluster-root like hybrid Musk Buff Beauty. Dense & wet compact clay will choke any roots, turning plants yellow. I notice the lowest leaves have brown-margin: that's from waterlogged soil. I would dig up the plant and fix the drainage. Hybrid musk like Buff Beauty likes it loamy & well-drained, and won't tolerate wet feet. I would dig down past 2 feet and remove any stones that's blocking water from draining. A friend is sending me a rooting of Buff Beauty this week, she rooted that easily in fluffy & coarse sand & alkaline tap water (pH over 8). But sand is not the solution to mix with clay, it would take another thread to explain which roses are best for that solution. As to lowering high pH tap-water with vinegar, I already did that many years ago. Doesn't work with French roses (Meilland and Romantica) which prefer alkaline soil, vinegar in tap water burned and wilted roses' leaves in hot sun. A better solution is sulfate of potash/gypsum, which I included the link to that in my Houzz profile picture: https://www.houzz.com/user/strawchicago/__public

I did aso discover that they like to eat pollen, and/or some say stamens, but I've forgotten now where out of the various sources consulted I gleaned those particular bits of info. I'm beginning to cobble together from everyone's suggestions plus some further reading, a slightly more serious hypothesis than my last effort, in answer to your original question Sheba, re what is the special attraction of your/ some other people's BBs: that maybe it's just got that perfect balance of desirable features - lots of short petals providing good hiding places with easy access, dampness (petals holding on to some moisture while protecting from actual rain), shade (they like shade) and, (being nocturnal in terms of their activity/foraging time) after a good day's sleep/ R&R, availability of pollen/stamens and maybe a few thrips or aphids for yummy evening breakfast snacks, to set themselves up for their night's activity (I too noticed a preponderance of yellow/lighter coloured blooms in earwig photos that may or may not be coincidental)... It would be interesting to know if there are signs of chewed stamens/scattered pollen, and to clarify whether they're laying and hatching eggs in there, or just resting up and socialising. I'm also getting the impression, from what I've read, that petals and rose leaves are not high on their list of preferred foods, so if there's plenty of other organic matter - decaying or fresh - around for them to eat, that may be why they're leaving the rose petals and leaves alone, for the most part. I came across a couple of past threads on earwigs and roses, from which some of this info came, here on Houzz, but didn't save the links, I'm afraid. One or two people had had a lot of trouble with earwigs in plague proportions actually destroying their roses, but I'm speculating that may have been in gardens where there wasn't a lot of their other, preferred organic matter around.

I'll take a look at mine when I get home. It's a lovely rose and is currently in bloom. FIY, Clotilde Soupert has small flowers not much larger than BubbleBath. It's a polyantha, so small flowers. However, yours is definitely not CS due to the thorns. BB definitely has thorns! Let me dig up a pic of mine last when it was in a pot. I've never taken any since planting it for some reason. Your rose has Hybrid Musk written all over it. Here are those pic King at these photos I think you have bubble bath but I'll have to take some pictures of the buds to see if they match yours and also a closer look at the shape of the thorns. I'll try and take some today to see what it's doing now.