There is one rose I use continually for cutting - lasts a good 2 weeks without shattering and looks lovely at all stages. Not an obvious choice but the little ground cover Sommerwind, aka Surrey, bred by Kordes, makes a perfect bouquet if you cut a generous stem with several clusters (this rose is in continuous bloom with a fast regrowth - the only downside is no scent). It is a fairly generic pink and the bloom is quite ordinary....but what is extraordinary is the graceful shape of each spray, and its ability to last for weeks, still looking pristine.

Sara-Ann, Another thing I thought of with Austins. In the light pinks there are many look-alikes. And white-based pinks vs. yellow-based pinks. Cameras can make the first appear to be the second. That's a question to ask if you have a preference. And it never occurred to me that Austins can have 6 small flower buds each on 4 upright stems on a main stem. Duh. But until I saw 'Windermere' it hadn't occurred to me. Here is one of my lusts growing over 5 ft. with multi mini candelabras atop a long stem. For a bouquet I have to cut one of the candelabras with buds tightly closed and opened?! I also cooled on 'Queen of Sweden' for that reason. I love my 'Apricot Nectar' sprays but those 2 Austins ..... maybe it was the formality and rigidity of how the buds/flowers were held that didn't ring my chimes. Growth habit (Austin) was the biggest adjustment for me. I still love the sculptured beauty of a hybrid tea bud but Austins in the blended pink/peach tones make me swoon.

If the liquid iron says 'chelated' on the label, you can use it. I use Kerex Sequestrine 138 Chelated Iron. Comes in a canister or 4lb bag. Chelation allows the iron to be readily available to the rose roots. For only a few roses, I'd go to a feed and tack store and buy alfalfa by the pound. Get it without molasses. I've heard that the pellets sold for rabbits are better to use than the ones sold for horses for that reason. Ferti-lome makes good products but stay away from the systemic products where a fungicide/pesticide is incorporated into the fertilizer. The benefit is limited and longterm usage can stunt the rose and leave toxins in your soil. Best to use water for most problems... aphids, whiteflies, spider mites and powdery mildew all respond to being jetted off the bush with an intense spray of water. Considering it's supposed to be 107 here today, I'd advise planting when the weather has cooled enough to allow you to be outside for an extended period without burning, toasting, roasting or calling 911, lol. Wait another week or two to plant but go ahead and prepare the next planting spot. Dig the holes, add the amendments, water it thoroughly and research the roses for disease resistance, size, bloom and availability.

Kristin, The best dark wine/purply Austin we have grown is William Shakespeare 2000. We are putting in two more next month. You are probably aware that Austins typically shatter kind of quickly, but it is our fav in that color range, and great in bouquets. It will get taller in your zone than it does in ours, but it doesn't have those "octopus legs/arms" that Falstaff and Othello do. We are going to move our two Intrigue roses to the back or side yard (similar color), because, while they are breathtaking and smell wonderful, they are not as floriferous! I don't know if you can find Wm. Shakespeare 2000 locally, but it would be worthwhile if you could! Have fun! :0) Phyl