Bigshoes... as you know, I have a small jungle to care for... there's no way I'm carrying all those pots over to a sink to water... I have most of my pots in fairly deep saucers, and I bottom water using either a watering can with a long "nose", or I just fill the saucers using a drinking cup that I fill from my gallon jug of fertilizer water... and for any smaller pots that I can't reach, I use a really large syringe minus the needle... I think a turkey baster would work, too. I fill, and then refill the saucers as they suck up the water... every once in a while, I top-water, allowing the water to run all the way out the bottom drainage hole to kind of leach out any bad stuff, like salts.

As far as soil goes... I mix my own medium using a base of cocopeat... to that, I add some vermiculite and a bit of high quality potting soil... and I add a touch of charcoal, too... I don't have exact amounts of ingredients, though... I just go by what feels good to me... if I had to guess, I'd say for every 4 cups of cocopeat, I add a cup of vermiculite and a half cup of high quality potting soil... the charcoal is used as a layer on the pot bottom to aid in drainage, and to keep the soil "sweet"... I'm going to be experimenting with adding a bit of sand to the mix, and I also wanted to try adding a bit of banzai medium, as well...

I'll post again when I begin experimenting with different mixes... I'm trying to find a mix that drains very well, doesn't hold too much moisture for too long, doesn't have too much that will be decomposing, and yet, has some body to it...

I haven't finished my first cup of coffee yet, so I hope you understood all that! :-)

Bigshoes: I wondered about this too, as there were conflicting posts about watering from the top or bottom. For Christmas, I received Veronica Read's book on Hippeastrum. She says NEVER to water from the bottom due to delicate root systems that can receive too much water at once and cause rot; and to use tepid, or room temperature water.

I mix my own soil, too: In thirds, a good basic potting soil mix (preferably with a few plant vitamins in it, to sustain the bulb through about three months), one third horticulural sand, and one third peat or vermiculite; something that enables fast drainage, but still allows moisture to be retained somewhat.

Of course, it does not have to be exactly what I use; it just wants to folow the basic principle of drainage, moisture retention, and food to be of help to the plant. You can use any combination of any of those products that have those qualities. I was also thinking of using coir as well, to see how that works for me.

Since you seem to have a lot of plants to care for, perhaps a small watering can could be used to get in between them.

I'm experimenting with 50% peat/50% perlite. Drains very,very well but I am finding it doesn't seem to hold the bulbs very steady on the higher stalked plants. Amourette for instance has a nearly 2 foot high stalk and the bulb lists a little. Soooo, a slightly heavier mix may be required. Or, sit the bulb deeper in the mix. I think this mix will help eliminate bulb rot however from over watering.

Thanks everyone for their input. I think I am going to be experimenting this upcoming weekend with my dirt. I thought I had gotten rid of all the fungus gnats that had invaded my home but apparently not. They are driving me nutty! I tried all the non poisonous ways first but I think it has come down to it this time. Granted there is not a lot of them this time. They seem to like my freesias better than anything right now.

But I really do appreciate everyones advice. Thanks again. Christina

Hi Bigshoes! Potting mix and watering method are very much dependent on your growing practices and conditions. They are both dependent on each other and one should do some adjustment on them to suit the needs of that certain plant. Now these tips are for hippeastrums/amaryllis...

For me, bottom watering is the BEST...IF you do not let your plant sit in the water for a long time. Specially for newly planted bulbs that do not have much roots. I use those cheap clear plastic saucers in the Dollar Store. I pour plain lukewarm water with a few drops of Superthrive in these saucers, let the soil absorb it for a few minutes, and then throw away the left over water. Any plant that sits in water would surely rot unless it's a water plant. This method ensures that the bottom soil gets the moisture and not the top soil. Thus it promotes the roots to grow and at the same time prevents the top soil from getting too wet which sometimes causes the bulb to rot. I would check the pot for lightness in weight and top 1-2 inch of soil should be dry before I water again. I also use clay pots as they dry faster than plastic ones.

Once the bulbs are established and has enough roots, I can then water from the top. I make sure that my soil mixture would be light and airy enough that it dries out in 5-7 days indoors and 3 days outdoors.

You are right about Miracle Gro potting mix. It has too much peat in it that the fungus gnats love. An infestation of fungus gnats would tell you something though. Your potting mix stays too wet or stays wet for a long time which is causing the peat or other ingredients in your potting mix to decompose...their food!

Try using coco peat mixed with perlite and vermiculite. If it's not available in your area, MG mixed with perlite and vermiculite should be alright as long as you maintain that "dry-water-dry-water" method.

Good luck with your fight against the fungus gnats. Sometimes it's inevitable to use strong chemicals for PESTS before they take control. And they will...
At first sign of infestation (indoors), I use Shultz Fungicide3. If it does not work, I would then use the Orthenex spray, bringing the plant outside before applying.

Hope that helps and happy amaryllis growing!

Well, another important lesson learned! I, too, was using the Miracle Grow potting soil and yes, I had swarms of gnats! And I was probably watering too much too. Keep it up guys! I Love learning and the flowers are the reward for it!
I mixed new soil with coir and perlite and some of a different potting soil today. I Could feel the difference in it! I repotted all those who seemed to be having difficulties but left the ones alone that were growing healthily and firmly embedded in the soil.

Excellent post, Maria!

Bigshoes - you'll get a feel for what medium is right for your conditions... sometimes you need to experiment a little...

I'm still perfecting my mix! But I think that cocopeat is the best base to begin with as it doesn't decompose. To that, many different things can be added to give the mix more body... this is the part I'm still working on...

Maria is correct, though... good drainage is key! Her watering methods are how I water, too... and since I've been bottom watering and have changed my medium, I've noticed less gnats and better growth of my hippis!